Bessa R + Jupiter 8 first photos...

cjm

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My first three rolls (Tri-x at 1600, Fuji 400H, Kodak Porta 160VC at 100) with this combo have produced some of my favorite pictures yet. I've attached a few and the rest can be seen at http://www.flickr.com/photos/57747305@N00/

I can't wait to pick up my next lens, probably a Voigtlander 35mm Color Skopar or a Jupiter 9.
 

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Those look awesome. If I thought I could get lucky enough to get a J8 that worked that well, I'd own one in a heartbeat.

The TX @1600 looks very nice. What developer did you use for those?
 
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/ondrej_p/237542377/in/set-72157594274751574

This is my Bessa R with Jupiter 8 and Jupiter 9.
Normally the Bessa wouldn't couple correctly with those fast FSU lenses. Bessa is built on Leica standard focal length 51.6mm, while FSu lenses are based on Contax standard focal length 52.3mm. It would cause misfocussed images close-up and wide open. To get over this, I recalibrated the rangefinder to work correctly with these FSU lenses. I don't think I will ever be able to buy a Leica (or Canon or Nikkor) lens, so I can live with it. For wide lenses (like a 35 or shorter) this isn't a problem because of their deep DOF.
Read more here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26119
 
few more jupiter 8 shots, superia 400.... both pics... one converted in ps 🙂

i would love to get other jupiter's, but i have no luck finding them here in Croatia...

Ondrej: that's one nice kit you have 🙂
 

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Nice shots!

btw, I get very similar results from TX in 1600, I develop for 16 minutes in Microphen, 20°C (68F).
 
The tri-x was developed at local photo shop so I have no idea about the details, i.e., time and chemicals used. The fuji roll was developed at Savon and the Porta roll was developed at Samy's camera.

I guess I got lucky with this lens. I wasn't expecting it because I bought it for only $40 shipped from Russia and it was a "buy it now" purchase.

Here's another with the tri-x @1600.
 

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When I got my 50mm Jupiter I did some tests to see if there was a discrepancy between the rangefinder and the film plane. I focused on a test chart using the rangefinder and also by measuring the exact distance to the target and using the focusing scale.

I also tried focusing a little closer and further than marked to see if there was a problem. I wasn't able to detect any, even as close as one meter. I know there have been lots of discussions about the flange distance, but I just can't see it.
 
Generally speaking there is not a problem with the J8's unless someone has been messing with them. In which case it is relatively easy to re-shim them correctly using a ground glass screen and lupe. The only problem that might arise is that there are 4 distinct construction types and if someone has been mixing and matching one. The J3s and J9s are a different matter and usually require some work to get them to focus correctly through the range.

Kim

robertdfeinman said:
When I got my 50mm Jupiter I did some tests to see if there was a discrepancy between the rangefinder and the film plane. I focused on a test chart using the rangefinder and also by measuring the exact distance to the target and using the focusing scale.

I also tried focusing a little closer and further than marked to see if there was a problem. I wasn't able to detect any, even as close as one meter. I know there have been lots of discussions about the flange distance, but I just can't see it.
 
Here are some pics with a roll of Kodak Porta 160VC...
 

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And a few more, the first one with Fuji Pro 800z and the second with XP2...
 

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