Spyderman
Well-known
Hi,
I wanted to calibrate the RF on my freshly acquired Bessa R (a used one) and I thought it might be useful for someone facing similar problem in future.
This is what I found:
http://www.pgallery.net/cvp/99.html
http://www.textklick.demon.co.uk/r2align.html
EDIT: I'm sorry but the site under the first link disappeared... you'll have to do a search on the net for something like "bessa rangefinder" with "adjustment" or "calibration". The point is to remove the hot-shoe to gain access to the rangefinder adjustment arm from top without removing the top cover. There are only 3 screws, one of which is longer...
The lenses I have are Jupiter-8 2/50 and Jupiter-9 2/85. I plan to buy a CV Skopar 2.5/35. Based on this, I adjusted the rangefinder to focus the FSU lenses precisely at infinity and close up, and I will rely upon the extended DOF of the 35 when I get it.
To do this I adjusted the RF at infinity, and at close distance as one of the sites says: I moved the block slightly to the back to adjust the close focus.
The RF was adjusted to focus the 85 correctly at infinity as well as at 1.5m, and the 50 at infinity and 1m.
Now both lenses focus correctly. I don't plan to buy any non-FSU lens in near future, and when I do, it will be something wide, so the sacrifice of Leica standard calibration in favor of FSU calibration was worth I think.
EDIT: links for reference:
The original link no.1 is here: http://web.archive.org/web/20050319043005/http://www.pgallery.net/cvp/99.html
Another RFF thread on vertical alignment of R-D1 rangefinder: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293419
Here is a Photo.net thread: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001NhD
(keywords: voigtlander bessa rangefinder adjustment calibration alignment)
I wanted to calibrate the RF on my freshly acquired Bessa R (a used one) and I thought it might be useful for someone facing similar problem in future.
This is what I found:
http://www.pgallery.net/cvp/99.html
http://www.textklick.demon.co.uk/r2align.html
EDIT: I'm sorry but the site under the first link disappeared... you'll have to do a search on the net for something like "bessa rangefinder" with "adjustment" or "calibration". The point is to remove the hot-shoe to gain access to the rangefinder adjustment arm from top without removing the top cover. There are only 3 screws, one of which is longer...
The lenses I have are Jupiter-8 2/50 and Jupiter-9 2/85. I plan to buy a CV Skopar 2.5/35. Based on this, I adjusted the rangefinder to focus the FSU lenses precisely at infinity and close up, and I will rely upon the extended DOF of the 35 when I get it.
To do this I adjusted the RF at infinity, and at close distance as one of the sites says: I moved the block slightly to the back to adjust the close focus.
The RF was adjusted to focus the 85 correctly at infinity as well as at 1.5m, and the 50 at infinity and 1m.
Now both lenses focus correctly. I don't plan to buy any non-FSU lens in near future, and when I do, it will be something wide, so the sacrifice of Leica standard calibration in favor of FSU calibration was worth I think.
EDIT: links for reference:
The original link no.1 is here: http://web.archive.org/web/20050319043005/http://www.pgallery.net/cvp/99.html
Another RFF thread on vertical alignment of R-D1 rangefinder: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293419
Here is a Photo.net thread: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001NhD
(keywords: voigtlander bessa rangefinder adjustment calibration alignment)
Last edited:
Spyderman
Well-known
ferider: To have a good collimated Jupiter is one thing, but to have it couple with the RF on camera is another...
The reason why I'm saying "Leica standard" and "FSU" calibration is that Leica slightly different focal length as standard. The FSU lenses are based on Zeiss Contax lenses, and so have slightly different standard focal length. Both the Leica and FSU calibrated lenses will focus identically at infinity, but as you focus closer, the error increases.
By moving the calibration block to the back of the camera slightly, I adjusted the RF for the FSU calibration, to enable my Jupiters to focus correctly.
It is basically the same thing as can be done on FSU cameras by adjusting the drop shaped piece on RF coupling. On FSU cameras a screw adjusts infinity, but the drop shaped piece adjusts close focus.
The reason why I'm saying "Leica standard" and "FSU" calibration is that Leica slightly different focal length as standard. The FSU lenses are based on Zeiss Contax lenses, and so have slightly different standard focal length. Both the Leica and FSU calibrated lenses will focus identically at infinity, but as you focus closer, the error increases.
By moving the calibration block to the back of the camera slightly, I adjusted the RF for the FSU calibration, to enable my Jupiters to focus correctly.
It is basically the same thing as can be done on FSU cameras by adjusting the drop shaped piece on RF coupling. On FSU cameras a screw adjusts infinity, but the drop shaped piece adjusts close focus.
BJ Bignell
Je n'aurai plus peur
So it's possible to adjust the infinity and close focus on a Bessa R? I haven't taken the tops off of my Rs, but does the diagram in your second link apply to the R, and not just the R2?
Excellent...
Excellent...
Spyderman
Well-known
Yes, I think Bessa R is the same. I didn't remove the top, but after removing the hot shoe it looked the same.
The thing to move is the black piece of metal ("Lens arm"). Not the brass hole under it ("Adjustment point").
After retightening the locking screw I found that the "Lens arm" can still be moved slightly. So you might not need to unscrew it, because retightening often upsets the infinity position.
The thing to move is the black piece of metal ("Lens arm"). Not the brass hole under it ("Adjustment point").
After retightening the locking screw I found that the "Lens arm" can still be moved slightly. So you might not need to unscrew it, because retightening often upsets the infinity position.
mc_vancouver
Established
I have a bessa R3M: If anyone has any experience in adjusting the r/f alignment on this camera (for infinity) I'd like to hear from you.
Spyderman
Well-known
I'm almost sure that R[2/3][a/m] is 99% the same.
PS: If Mr. Kobayashi wanted to redesign something in the RF construction, I'm sure he would listen to all those Bessa users who long for a longer RF baselength
PS: If Mr. Kobayashi wanted to redesign something in the RF construction, I'm sure he would listen to all those Bessa users who long for a longer RF baselength
garythegit
Established
Great tip thanks! I've got a Bessa R in the post and I better get ready to adjust with those J8s! It's coming with a 25/4 so the dof should be ok.
How did you adjust for 1m btw?? How accurate can one make it? Tripod and measuring tape??
How did you adjust for 1m btw?? How accurate can one make it? Tripod and measuring tape??
clintock
Galleryless Gearhead
I do the 1m adjust by putting a meter stick on a table, and put the camera on the stick so that the film plane symbol is even with one end of the stick, a target such as a beer/soda/soup can at the other end. Focus on the label using a lens that has a long throw from near to infinity, and adjust until the 1m mark on the lens is exactly lined up with the lens dot when the rf shows proper focus. I sit the camera directly on the stick, and the can on the table but pushed against the far end. Coasters or magazines to shim the camera help keep it steady as you fiddle, so it won't fall off the stick.
This requires trust in the markings on the lens to be accurate, one really needs to verify with ground glass and loupe on the focal plane for a 1m target, tape the lens in place so it can't turn, then adjust the rf spot until it's in focus.
But so far, using a nokton 1.5 50 as reference, i've been ok on both my r3a and t just trusting the 1m marking on the lens.
For a jupiter 9, I wouldn't trust the mark.
This requires trust in the markings on the lens to be accurate, one really needs to verify with ground glass and loupe on the focal plane for a 1m target, tape the lens in place so it can't turn, then adjust the rf spot until it's in focus.
But so far, using a nokton 1.5 50 as reference, i've been ok on both my r3a and t just trusting the 1m marking on the lens.
For a jupiter 9, I wouldn't trust the mark.
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lubitel
Well-known
I have 2 J-8s one silver and one black and they both focus correctly on FSU cameras and on Bessa R. I am not sure its always necessary to do this adjustment to bessa there were none done to mine as far as I know.
Spyderman
Well-known
clintock: Why wouldn't you trust the scale on a Jupiter 9? Maybe because there is no 1m value
lubitel: Did you judge by pictures or by RF and scale on lens? Because the focussing error caused by Leica/Contax standard can't be seen with 50 f/2. It's hidden in the DOF. With a 85 f/2 it can.
But Bessa has another problem: its short RF base length, so I think this plays major role in the focussing error.
lubitel: Did you judge by pictures or by RF and scale on lens? Because the focussing error caused by Leica/Contax standard can't be seen with 50 f/2. It's hidden in the DOF. With a 85 f/2 it can.
But Bessa has another problem: its short RF base length, so I think this plays major role in the focussing error.
hobbim
Member
I picked up an old thread to keep this not spreading all over.
Could anyone veryfy me how the Bessa R close focus is adjusted? My unit seems to have three screws instead of the described brass adjustment point + two screws. The front screw is vertical adjustment, middle one seems to be infinity adjustment (or at least infinity is clearly adjusted by moving it a bit). The one closest to the back of the camera seems to do nothing.
Is the third screw some kind of locking screw? Is the same screw present in your camera or are there different versions around perhaps? Unfortunately the third screw cannot be removed without taking of the top so I cannot see what is available if it was removed.
I'd hate to take the top off just to see better.
Could anyone veryfy me how the Bessa R close focus is adjusted? My unit seems to have three screws instead of the described brass adjustment point + two screws. The front screw is vertical adjustment, middle one seems to be infinity adjustment (or at least infinity is clearly adjusted by moving it a bit). The one closest to the back of the camera seems to do nothing.
Is the third screw some kind of locking screw? Is the same screw present in your camera or are there different versions around perhaps? Unfortunately the third screw cannot be removed without taking of the top so I cannot see what is available if it was removed.
I'd hate to take the top off just to see better.
Epimetheus
Well-known
hobbim said:
I didn't adjust my bessa-r for close focus at all. I just adjusted for infinity and the close focus seemed to get better with that. This picture is taken near the closest focusing distance and it's sharp enough for me:
hobbim
Member
The close-far relationship does not seem adjastable on my Bessa R, at least not without removing the top. Infinity is simple to adjust but I'd still like to fine-tune close-far ratio as well. Unfortunately I cannot see how it is done without removing the top because the assumed adjustment point is under the rearmost lock screw. The locking screw is just too big to be removed from the small hole without taking the top off.
I'd go ahead and remove the top unless some parts would not seem to make trouble. Removal of the frameline selector and rewinding crank is not obvious to me. Anyone with an idea how they are mounted/removed? No obvious screws on those parts.
I'd go ahead and remove the top unless some parts would not seem to make trouble. Removal of the frameline selector and rewinding crank is not obvious to me. Anyone with an idea how they are mounted/removed? No obvious screws on those parts.
Spyderman
Well-known
Although tis is a very old thread, I'll reply for future reference...
On my former Bessa R as well as my current R2 the RF mechanisms look identical (at least the parts I can see after removing the hot-shoe).
The front screw is for vertical adjustment (up-down), the middle screw is locking screw, and the "adjustment point" is just a hole. The thing you have to actually move is the black "lens arm".
If you rotate the locking screw, it can move the arm as a side effect, thus you think that it's the adjustment screw... but it's not.
On my former Bessa R as well as my current R2 the RF mechanisms look identical (at least the parts I can see after removing the hot-shoe).
The front screw is for vertical adjustment (up-down), the middle screw is locking screw, and the "adjustment point" is just a hole. The thing you have to actually move is the black "lens arm".
If you rotate the locking screw, it can move the arm as a side effect, thus you think that it's the adjustment screw... but it's not.
minoltist7
pussy photographer
Is it possible to adjust 1m and infinity withhout disassemling all body, and through removing accessory shoe plate?
I didn't unserstand from the pictures - is there 2 separate screws for 1m and infinity adjustment?
I didn't unserstand from the pictures - is there 2 separate screws for 1m and infinity adjustment?
Hates_
Established
From reading the article I think you adjust both the 1m and infinity using the same adjustment point. You move it forward-back to adjust 1m and left-right to adjust infinity. I have never tried this, so I can't confirm this is 100% true, but that is what the page says.minoltist7 said:
minoltist7
pussy photographer
I removed the shoe cap on R3A, and there are 3 screws in a row (not like on R/R2):
http://photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=27906884
the left one is very deep inside and hardly accessible without removing top
the middle (marked as "horisontal adjustment" on the photo) is a small one
and the right is big (vertical)
I don't care about verticals, I want to adjust close distance and infinity - should I touch only middle screw?
What is adjustment point and how do you move it? Insert thin screwdriver into it?
(I don't see any holes there, like on your pics... maybe it's accessibly only with top removed)
http://photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=27906884
the left one is very deep inside and hardly accessible without removing top
the middle (marked as "horisontal adjustment" on the photo) is a small one
and the right is big (vertical)
I don't care about verticals, I want to adjust close distance and infinity - should I touch only middle screw?
What is adjustment point and how do you move it? Insert thin screwdriver into it?
(I don't see any holes there, like on your pics... maybe it's accessibly only with top removed)
Last edited:
javabean
Established
Thanks for the links, Spyderman. Here is another that seems interesting.
Another adjustment page
Here is the old page you were referring to.
Cheers,
javabean.
Another adjustment page
Here is the old page you were referring to.
Cheers,
javabean.
lZr
L&M
Also my Bessa R is done. The most difficult was to find the right Philips screwdriver. I was in search for 2 days. Seems the infinity and vertical alignment are both dependent on single screw, but I am not sure. Perhaps it is my Bessa R version. I am not sure my camera have slit in the upper right screw
minoltist7
pussy photographer
I tried to adjust R3A - no luck.
I removed accessory shoe cover, and found horizontal adjustment screw - as on this picture:
http://photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=27906884
It is buried deep inside and need very long and thin flat screwdriver.
However, I cannot turn it left - it feels heavy resistance like a spring, and when I turn it slightly to the right, image in the viewfinder coincede, but when I remove screwdriver, everything comes back. Is there are some locking thing which needs to be released before to do adjustment?
It seems not possible to do accurately without removal of whole top of the camera :-(
I removed accessory shoe cover, and found horizontal adjustment screw - as on this picture:
http://photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=27906884
It is buried deep inside and need very long and thin flat screwdriver.
However, I cannot turn it left - it feels heavy resistance like a spring, and when I turn it slightly to the right, image in the viewfinder coincede, but when I remove screwdriver, everything comes back. Is there are some locking thing which needs to be released before to do adjustment?
It seems not possible to do accurately without removal of whole top of the camera :-(