Best 35mm B&W Negative film for overall user friendliness & Digital Scanning Q's???

I'm a total klutz when it comes to scanning, so I've nothing of value to contribute in that arena. I've got an Epson Perfection 4990 Photo flatbed and a plustek opticfilm 7200 negative scanner. Both came with Silverfast. What scans best on the Epson are 8x10 B&W prints.

Maybe if I spent a lot more money on scanners I might get better results, but I haven't got "a lot more money."

As for B&W film, I do believe that over a long life I've tried them all. Efke, Agfa, Ilford, Fuji, some weird stuff back in the '70's with a name like Estar-H (lent new meaning to the term 'grain').

But I keep returning to Tri-X. It just does the job, year after year. However, Dick makes the case for BW400CN: Sans darkroom it's the way to go.
 
I want to second the suggestion of using tri-x (or arista premium) with d76 and diafine, although I will add that if you find yourself in a situation where you need a film with super fine grain, go with Ilford Delta 100. I havent shot delta 100 in 35mm, but it is unbelievable in medium format.
 
I must agree about the Ilford Delta 100 - especially in MF where it can really show its stuff. I would also recommend TMAX 100 in MF. I've used both in my Rolleiflex. Actually, I'm not sure which might be "better." Never thought about comparing the two before, but it might be fun.
 
I support Tri X as the all around film, but for fine grain, razor edge sharpness I find that Fuji's Across hard to beat. Developed in Beutler 1:1:10 for 7 min!
The "chromogenic" films (C41 bl/w) are OK in my book, but though they scan well - I hate printing in the darkroom from those negatives. I am also a bit worried about long term storage of C41 stuff (color or bl/w) - it is not the most stable of emulsions - at least compared to Tri X or it's compatriots.
 
Hey Tom, Have you ever souped the Tmax 400-2 in Rodinal - maybe stand developing? I am thinking about trying out this film and making it my standard film for my Pen FT. What developer would you recommend if you were shooting at 400 most of the time?
 
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The Tmax2-400 works fine in Rodinal (1:50/11 min) but it also gives you very clean and less "edgy" grain in HC 110 1:60 (30 ml raw syrup in 1800 ml of water - dump the excess).
If you go to our Flickr site and tag "Kodak Tmax 2-400" there is some samples that I did with various developers in 2007 when Kodak gave a pack of it to me to play with. I have used it later too with Pyrocat HD and that is probably my favorite combination. That one you have to mix yourself - but making up 500 ml of A and B is enough to do 150+ rolls (or 5 month - whichever comes first). Now - 150+ rolls x 72 frames/roll - that is a lot of shots!!!!
 
dfoo said:
Isn't that stuff really poisonous?
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You are only supposed to develop film in it - not drink it!!!
Pyrocatcheol and cathechoel are somewhat toxic - but basic caution is fine. Dont mix it indoors and avoid inhaling the dust from it. Once it is in suspension in water it is fine. You really have to ingest a couple of grams of it to get sick - and it tastes vile enough that you would know you were doing it. Extremely "bitter" taste. The fact that you probably only have to do it every 3-4 months works for you too. If you have small kids, yes, by all means keep it under lock and key when not using it. I usually buy it in 1 kg cans and hide it from general view. OK, if some hopped burglar starts ingesting it - I would put him/her up for the Darwin prize anyway.
 
Tom A said:
The Tmax2-400 works fine in Rodinal (1:50/11 min) but it also gives you very clean and less "edgy" grain in HC 110 1:60 (30 ml raw syrup in 1800 ml of water - dump the excess).
If you go to our Flickr site and tag "Kodak Tmax 2-400" there is some samples that I did with various developers in 2007 when Kodak gave a pack of it to me to play with. I have used it later too with Pyrocat HD and that is probably my favorite combination. That one you have to mix yourself - but making up 500 ml of A and B is enough to do 150+ rolls (or 5 month - whichever comes first). Now - 150+ rolls x 72 frames/roll - that is a lot of shots!!!!
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Tom,

What speed do you shoot TMY-2 at for Rodinal development? I've been shooting it at EI 320 with great results in D-76 1+1 but would like to try Rodinal, since it is my favorite developer for most other films.
 
Somehow I trust Kodak when it comes to film speeds! The Tmax 2-400 seems to work fine @ 400 - when you run it in Rodinal 1:50 (11-12 min), but speed drops a bit with 1:100/19 min - probably closer to 250-320. You better test though. Agitation is critical here - 3 turns/60 sec seems to work best - any less it goes flat - too much, contrast builds up.
It is a bit more finicky with exposure than the Tri X - but no to bad. I usually shoot it in a "Sunny f16 mode" and so far it has worked fine.
With Rodinal I also find that prewashing for a minute or two helps.
 
Tom A said:
Somehow I trust Kodak when it comes to film speeds! The Tmax 2-400 seems to work fine @ 400 - when you run it in Rodinal 1:50 (11-12 min), but speed drops a bit with 1:100/19 min - probably closer to 250-320. You better test though. Agitation is critical here - 3 turns/60 sec seems to work best - any less it goes flat - too much, contrast builds up.
It is a bit more finicky with exposure than the Tri X - but no to bad. I usually shoot it in a "Sunny f16 mode" and so far it has worked fine.
With Rodinal I also find that prewashing for a minute or two helps.
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What is the prewash for? I know some people think it improves eveness of developing, but years ago when I tested for that I saw no difference (on other films, never tried it on TMY-2). Or does it affect other things, like speed, contrast, grain, etc?
 
mh2000 said:
GROAN! I went this route for a number of years... do a search on "clog from hell" on the yahoo b&w printing group for the real story. (Though I do agree that beautiful prints can be made... though I still prefer HP b&w).
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Same here, except in my case the Printer from Hell was an Epson SC 1160 with a dedicated set of Lyson Quad Black (neutral) carts. Print quality was stellar...when it worked. Which was rather infrequently. The Epson 2200 I had, thankfully, was more reliable; too bad it blew chunks in terms of its b/w output (color wasn't all that hot either, if I factored in metamerism/gloss-differential/bronzing issues).

I ditched them both three years back for an HP 8750, and printing has been hassle-free ever since. For once, "suitable for hanging" can be a reference to the quality of print output, rather than the people who designed the thing. ;)

As far as film goes? I believe in Keeping It Simple, but only to a point. If I were to shoot only black-and-white, and had to choose just one film, it would liikely be Tri-X, beause the stuff is just that flexible: shoot it crazy-fast and soup it in Acufine/Diafine; shoot it slower for finer grain and soup it a number of ways (too many formulae to delve into here); or just go rough-n'-ready and soup it in D-76 or, my preference, HC-110.

HP5 isn't bad in this regard, either...more a matter of personal preference and familiarity than "this one's way better than that one!"

But, I don't shoot just one film: There are at least two b/w films I regard as "go-to", while on the color side there are as many as four.


- Barrett
 
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It would be impossible, I think, for me to settle on ONE film. If forced, it would be Tri-X or TMY-2. I would rather settle on two films -- TX or TMY and Pan-F+. FP-4+ would be a more than reasonable alternative, as also TMX if I were in a T-grain mood.

The net of all this is that in the era of the "film is dead", we have some of the best choices ever.

But for developers, I would stick to Rodinal and/or XTol.
 
For TMY in Rodinal 1:100, I agitate for three inversions every THREE minutes only, 20 minutes total. The only time I differ is if the bulk of the roll is shots in very low cpntrast light. If most of the roll is in normal or higher contrast, I would rather develop for that and boost contrast of flat scenes, as that is easier for me.

I think the reduced agitation regime gives me the best grain and tonal scale.
 
Ok, I just developed a roll of TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+50 using Tom's recommendations. They're drying now, so I can't tell you how the grain/sharpness looks yet, but the contrast and shadow detail look good. I used a film I shot earlier today at EI 320. Tom says he uses 400, but I figure if I am off, it isn't by much. The negs look good at first glance.
 
Chris, I'm not sure if this is what you want, but I develop TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+50, 12 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, then 3 inversions each minute, and at 250 EI, OR TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+50, 10.5 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, then 3 inversions each minute, dump, and use 500ml per 5 ml Borax (half a teaspoon Borax (Twenty Mule Team Borax)), and let stand for 5 minutes as per TomA, but this time EI 200. This is the Two Bath method, my own but close and inspired by Barry Thornton:

3287764153_e9dbb12a81.jpg
 
charjohncarter said:
Chris, I'm not sure if this is what you want, but I develop TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+50, 12 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, then 3 inversions each minute, and at 250 EI, OR TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+50, 10.5 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, then 3 inversions each minute, dump, and use 500ml per 5 ml Borax (half a teaspoon Borax (Twenty Mule Team Borax)), and let stand for 5 minutes as per TomA, but this time EI 200. This is the Two Bath method, my own but close and inspired by Barry Thornton:

3287764153_e9dbb12a81.jpg
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WOW check out that shadow detail!

I've never done any kind of two-bath developing. When you add the borax, do you do any agitating, like an initial agitate, or just pour in and let it sit without moving it? Do you ever get any kind of uneven developing? Thanks,

CHris
 
Chris, I use that method is Mexico or in California on those red hot sunny days. Try it you will like it. I was always unhappy with my Summer midday shots, and this is what I came up with. AND no, I pour out the Rodinal 1+50 at 10.5 minutes and then pour in the Borax mixture and then do not touch it for five minutes. TomA wondered what if I let it stand for 30 minutes, so I tried 15, but now I don't see any difference between 5 and 15. I'm going to Mexico tomorrow, and will try the same thing but this time with a Olympus 35RC instead of of a Konica C35.
 
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charjohncarter said:
Chris, I use that method is Mexico or in California on those red hot sunny days. Try it you will like it. I was always unhappy with my Summer midday shots, and this is what I came up with.
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Yeah I hate shooting on sunny days too. Even up here in Indiana, the sun is brutally harsh in the summer. We actually get a lot of 100+ degree summer days here in the midwest, which a lot of people who live in other parts of the country don't realize. When I lived in Santa Fe, it was ALWAYS hotter in Indiana than in Santa Fe, even in the winter it was colder in Santa Fe!

Thanks for the info, I'll definitely try this soon. There hasn't been a cloud in the sky for days here! Maybe I'll shoot some people at school tomorrow.
 
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