Best camera for bicycle touring

[Asim]

The only camera system I have is a Leica MP with a 50 Lux Asph. I am looking for something that I would be more comfortable taking on multi-day bicycle tours. Also, it would act as a backup for the Leica MP during my travels to various countries.

So can you please suggest me a camera with the following preferences:
1. Light, compact, and durable (at least lighter and more compact than the MP/50mm combo)

2. Not so expensive (I guess within a $1000)

3. Sharp! (I'll be shooting only slide film with this and sharpness is very important)

4. Something that has focusing capability (I don't think I could live with a Rollei 35)

5. 35mm fomat.

6. With a self-timer

At this time I'm leaning towards a Contax T3. Are there any other contenders that can be found in the US?

 

[Gary Sandhu]

Contax tvsiii -- this will give you zoom capabilities and the lid closes over the glass -- but it's still a bit dainty and fiddly to operate -/ like the T3
Olympus stylus epic-- all automatic but easy to use one handed (except to turn the flash off) -- spash proof and mine has taken a few falls and still works.

 

[tempest68]

I will second the Olympus Stylus Epic. Although I recently acquired mine, so I've only seen the results from one roll so far (Fuji Pro 400H). I was waiting for warmer weather before I run any slide film through it. Can't beat how compact it is and the 35mm f2.8 lens. I wish there would be a 50mm f2 camera this size (digital or film).

 

[doolittle]

Olympus XA, the ultimate pocket camera

 

[shortstop]

Olympus XA, the ultimate pocket camera

I had two XA. Lens not so good. Sold both and bought a T3 that has superb optics; if expensive, you may buy a Rollei 35s.

 

[Peter_S]

It is really tough to beat the T3 here. I use mine since years for ski touring, ski expeditions (to over 6000m), guiding and such...it is simply perfect for that.
I also had good luck with the TVS III (also for long mountain bike tours in the Andes), but it vignettes at the WA end and takes no filters.

(I also like the Contax T for its smaller size, but I stopped trusting rangefinders whenever they get knocked around).

 

[GaryLH]

Contax T or Rollei 35.. Both fit in the back of your jersey pocket. Olympus xa would be lighter. If u plan to use pannier or front handle bar bag, there are a lot of other options that are pretty light including something as big as Nikon fg-20 w/ 50f1.8e..

Gary

 

[swoop]

Bessa R3M with 40mm Nokton.

I did the continental divide with the R3a and 40mm nokton and a pouch of film, mailing home rolls along the way. It was great to have all of them waiting to be developed when I got back.

 

[xyz3450]

Another vote for the Contax T3 -- very sharp and wonderful to use. If you don't already own it, one thing to look out for is that the spool advance mechanism is still in good working order. The (single) tooth/hook can sometimes wear leading to spool take up issues. (though relatively easy to fix if it does arise...)

 

[Frank Petronio]

Fuji Klasse impressed me as a solid, rugged yet quality camera. I am a big fan of the Stylus but you lose control over slide film exposure. Of course using slide film is odd anyway but have fun.

 

[johannielscom]

Konica "off-road" Wide 28

https://www.flickr.com/groups/compact35/discuss/72157623313493594/

 

[Particular]

I have been having fun with a leica IIIc on my bike. I wear it on a short neck strap, so it won't swing and hit the handlebar. With a little canon 35mm, or a Jupiter 8 it is so light, that I hardly notice it.
I really like the slightly elevated perspective I get from the bike, so sometimes (when traffic permits) I like to do a slow drive-by, and shoot while riding. I prefer the winding knob to the lever on an M leica, as I don't jab my chest. I use my m6 like this also, but the lighter weight, and lower investment of the smaller leica makes for more carefree and spontaneous shooting.

 

[philcycles]

How about a CL?

 

[Richard G]

I have been having fun with a leica IIIc on my bike. I wear it on a short neck strap, so it won't swing and hit the handlebar. With a little canon 35mm, or a Jupiter 8 it is so light, that I hardly notice it.
I really like the slightly elevated perspective I get from the bike, so sometimes (when traffic permits) I like to do a slow drive-by, and shoot while riding. I prefer the winding knob to the lever on an M leica, as I don't jab my chest. I use my m6 like this also, but the lighter weight, and lower investment of the smaller leica makes for more carefree and spontaneous shooting.

This is what I would do. I love my first foray into screw mount Leicas: they really are tiny.

 

[Benjamin Marks]

I think you have to consider that you want it light, you want it reasonably durable, and because you may take spills, go over potholes and suffer other road vibration, will get caught in the rain, and will have a minimal ability to secure your belongings, you want it cheeeeap. Forget a museum piece. A IIIa is a great little camera, but the thing will be 80 years old and you will need a separate light meter. Forget a T3 -- superb but too expensive. Forget the XA or a Minox -- too delicate. Go with the Olympus Stylus and a zip lock baggie for when it gets wet out there.

 

[Mablo]

When touring on my bicycle I've used Oly XA, Rollei 35, Hexar AF, Nikon F80, Retina II and various digital point & shooters. I carry the camera in a waterproof handlebar pannier (Ortlieb). Usually I don't take a lot of photos during the day while I'm pedaling. I tend to shoot more in the evenings. In this respect I think my Oly XA was slightly better than the rest of the film cameras I've used. It's really handy in the dark when you use it with a mini-size table tripod.

 

[kehng]

Ditto.
If you're out on the road for a period of time you would want something that doesn't rely on batteries or electronics. Or can at least function without batteries like an M6. My Olympus OM4 although wonderful has let me down once or twice in its life.

A LTM camera would do the trick, as would a Contax II or III or Leica M2, M3 or to throw a curve ball at you how about a Widelux? They are wonderful for landscape photography... Just getting my film processed from Rio where I was an a month long residency. So glad I had my Widelux F7 with me...

This is what I would do. I love my first foray into screw mount Leicas: they really are tiny.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I was going to recommend a Nikonos IV-a or even better, a V but you want a focus confirmation, not just scale focus. Those cameras are probably the only ones I'd travel on a bicycle with and have absolute confidence they wouldn't break if I took a fall or the camera dropped somehow. I'm going to be taking a Nikonos V (possibly two) when I do a big ride across a few states.

A Konica Hexar would definitely be a contender but enough vibration and a spill could render that IR focusing system inaccurate. I have never heard of it happening, but it's certainly possible.

A Contax T2 or one of the similar form factor boutique point & shoots might work but again, you're possibly taking a risk.

Then there's the cheap option but you'll want spares. A couple Nikon L35AFs could certainly get the job done and if you destroy one, you pick up another one for $5-20.

Have a good ride!

Phil Forrest

 

[Harry S.]

GR1V, Klasse W, Contax T3 etc...

usual suspects

 

[Peter_S]

Ditto.
If you're out on the road for a period of time you would want something that doesn't rely on batteries or electronics. .

In theory...but the superiority of mechanical cameras for such uses and rough conditions is a myth in my book.

I crossed the Puna desert in Argentina with bike and summited a 6800m peak along the way, in autumn - over two weeks in very cold conditions. I used a TVS III and one spare battery. A T3 accompanied me to 6000-7000m in the Tien Shan, one of the coldest mountain ranges in that elevation, and it performed well.
I had M6s with me on several other occassions, but often ended up taking the T3 instead higher up - just so much more lighter, even with the evil spare batteries. That T3 (together with a Leica X2) continues to be my main mountain camera.

In the same time of using the T3, I had two M6, one M7 and one CL go to repair - all mechanical defects (and I sold of all of them in the end).

A T3 in good shape can serve many many years. I would not take a RF on a cycling trip (except perhaps the Contax T, which is light and can be easier protected from vibrations and banging around). And - the smaller the camera, the easier to protect.