Best catch-all developer for (rare) home use over long time

[Bruin]

Pyrocat HD in glycol lasts for years, according to Sandy King (who formulated the stuff). You can use it one-shot or two-bath for more compensation. It would be my choice of one dev if I didn't need to push.

 

[Nokton48]

Pyro PMK is my favorite developer, and stores better than anything else I've ever used.
Kodak D-1 was Pyro.

 

[trip-xa]

I have a bottle of Freestyle's version of HC110, L110 I think they call it now. It sits forever and dilutes right out of the bottle. Unlike Kodak HC110, it is a liquid not a gel, so mixing is super simple. I also use Rodinal. I use it 1+50 often, but lately have been shooting some expired Fomapan 400 @ 250 and using Rodinal 1:100 with 1 hour stand. Results are great.

 

[Thomas-Paris]

Tmz

Tmz

So, I've been using Fomapan with Fomapans R09, which is fine, but I'm having problems finding formulas that match for instance T-Max P3200 @1600 with R09.

There were quite a lot of replies answering your general question, but most of the answers ignored the little detail that you're planing on using the developer on TMZ. At EI 1600, you should be fine with something like D76, but if you want to push it to 3200 or 6400 or higher, you might consider TMax developer. I'm happy up to 6400 with Xtol. Stay away from things like HC110 or Rodinal with that film.

 

[Bingley]

Another +1 for pschauss's post. If you're factoring in cost, Diafine is good b/c you can re-use it and a batch can last a long time (I've been using my current batch for a couple of years). I like Diafine w/ Plus-X (@ iso 320). But Rodinal is still my favorite developer and as others have noted it's easy to mix and keeps a long time.

 

[biakalt]

I second Rodinal. mine has lasted since last year and sill going strong

 

[tofagerl]

I ordered a packet of D76 a few days ago along with some other stuff, I think I'll try at least one film at 3200 with that before I order a fourth developer, cause honestly my kitchen is getting crowded :|

By the way, how sad is it that living in the biggest city in Norway, I still have to order developer online. KODAK developer!

 

[tonal1]

If you like R09 with your TMZ, I am 99.9% certain you'll hate Rodinal with your TMZ.

For occasional use, I would recommend TMAX developer for TMZ. Nice convenient liquid with good properties, and good speed for that film. Plus, if it goes bad, it's easy to find and doesn't require mixing, just dilution.

But you won't have the characteristics of R09.

 

[bwcolor]

I agree, use Rodinal for the slow film and TMax Developer for the fast. Kodak claims a two year shelf life for the concentrate. Just purge the air after using it as a one time developer.

 

[kutting]

I put glass marbles in the bottle to displace the liquid and reduce the air in the bottle.

 

[tofagerl]

Can I use compressed air? That is, the stuff that's not actually air but some gas used for cleaning inside a computer.

 

[dyao]

if I recall correctly, the HC-110 says it will store 'indefinitely' in concentrate form.

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Kodak HC110

Chris

 

[tofagerl]

Well, I bought a packet of D-76, just mixed half of it - pretty easy procedure, and tomorrow I'll try it on a tmax p3200 film I shot at 3200, since my effing Nikon F75 doesn't allow me to manually set the ISO. I'll never use that camera with anything but 100 or 400 iso again 🙁

Edit: Oh, point was - tomorrow I'll get to try the D-76. If I'm happy with p3200@3200, I doubt any other Kodak films will be a problem :|

 

[kutting]

😉

Can I use compressed air? That is, the stuff that's not actually air but some gas used for cleaning inside a computer.

It sounds dodgy. It's under pressure - you'll probably end up getting splash-back and if it says compressed air on the can, then that's likely what's in the can. Not to mention the problems of sealing gas in an open bottle.

 

[Bruin]

Actually "canned air" works fine - it's not really air, it's liquefied refrigerant that's heavier than air. Go easy on the trigger and you won't splash your dev.

 

[Ronald M]

Got a glass bottle of Rodinal I took out of the plastic original plastic in 1998 which i saved for experimentation. As of a few months back it developed to 95% the same contrast as originally. Can`t complain over 12 years.

HC110 is next best. Mix 1:31 from the syrup and forget intermediate dilutions.

D76 is my usual. Good for 6 months after which is starts going at an accelerating rate.
I mix a liter from raw chems and store in 4 oz bottles for one time use. It is the best general use developer going as someone above said about ID11, basically the same. You can screw around to find something better and finally give up. Ain`t going to happen so forget it. Don`t waste your time. Spend it making pictures.

A liter costs me about $1. You need a scale and bulk chemicals.

 

[tonal1]

Well, I bought a packet of D-76, just mixed half of it - pretty easy procedure, and tomorrow I'll try it on a tmax p3200 film I shot at 3200, since my effing Nikon F75 doesn't allow me to manually set the ISO. I'll never use that camera with anything but 100 or 400 iso again 🙁

Edit: Oh, point was - tomorrow I'll get to try the D-76. If I'm happy with p3200@3200, I doubt any other Kodak films will be a problem :|

You can actually buy/make little DX code stickers that will allow you to tell the camera who's boss.