best developer for Fomapan 400

tho60

Well-known
Local time
5:35 PM
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Messages
309
Some people tell that Rodinal or Fomadon R09 is not suitable for Fomapan 400 film, because this combination delivers poor results.

Do you agree with this statement? What would be the best developer (preferably Foma product) for Fomapan 400 film? What are your experiences?

Thanks a lot.
 
I have found that Rodinal gives me pretty grainy results with Fomapan 400/Arista.edu 400. If you like grain, then it might be just the thing for you.

I like XTol, less grain and decent tones. Others I know like D76 and Clayton F76+ (aka Arista Premium liquid). All of those developers have similar characteristics.

Most people recommend shooting Fomapan 400 at EI 200 for the best results, but I've never tried it at that EI, so I'm not sure what each of the developers look like for it.

-Greg
 
Rodinal and its analogs are fine with Fomapan 400 and can result in great tonality, provided you keep the following points in mind:

1) The relatively low effective film speed associated with Rodinal will knock Foma 400's already over-optimistic ISO 400 to something closer to 200
2) Foma 400 is already pretty grainy for a 400 speed film; Rodinal will emphasize this.

If you are looking for a cheap, convenient way to get a vintage look and tonality, this is a good combo. If you dislike grain, need speed, or want a cleaner more modern look, I'd recommend Xtol for Foma 400, shot at E.I. 320.
 
I only developed foma 400 with Rodinal , but I'm getting very good results with this combination.
The key to my knowledge is working with cooler temperatures .usually I start with 15-18 Celsius .
 
I found Kodak D-76 to work well with Arista EDU Ultra 400 at box speed (reportedly the same as Fomapan 400).

16651564153_b38fb90841_z.jpg


17000282417_d59dcaef8e_z.jpg
 
It depends on what you want to achieve.

Rodinal, in general, isn't really a speed-enhancing, grain reducing developer.

Most people use developers that enhance speed and reduce grain with 400 ISO and above.

I would use HC-110, as I always do, because it lasts for a lifetime and gives middle-scores among the various developers with most films.

Don't shoot it at 400 whatever you decide, more like 200-320 would be better suited.
 
It also depends on the format you are going to use. FP400 has also a lack of speed and when using R09/Rodinal you will loose another 1/3F stop, apart from the extra grain you will get with this para- Amino Phenol developer. In general R09/Rodinal is in 35mm only suitable for slow- and medium speed classical type films. Good results you can get with Xtol/Fomadon Excel W27, LQN, or Rollei Supergrain, HC-110. Expose around iso 250-320 for these developers.
 
Unfortunately, Foma does not publish developing curves for the following: Fomadon P, Foma Universal, Fomadon R09, Fomandon LQR (the contrast-working chemical). One must do test rolls.
 
Fomadon P W37 is equal to ID-11/D-76.

Here an example of FP400 E.I. 250 in Rollei Supergrain, 1+9 6:00 minutes (20C), in fact an AM74 (Amaloco copy) with less Hydroquinone.

15166498695_6b0b2fe3f7_c.jpg


Foma's LQN won't be very different of this type developer.
 
The best Foma product would be Fomadon Excel (W27) it is very close to Kodak X-tol the best dev. for Fomapan 200 (beautiful tonality) imo and a very good choice for Fomapan 400.

Rodinal isn't a bad choice if you like a bit of grain and less Details in the shadow in fact it's a great choice if you are after that grainy gritty reportage look of the 1960's and 70's.

Good luck
 
No difference to printing any other Film. If the neg is good it's easy if it isn't you have a lot of work to do just like with any other film.

I usually enlarge on Ilford Multigrade FB Classic 5K Matt or Efke Varycon Mat. The matt surface hides some of the grain and tames the contrast (less D-Max). I usally print on Grade 2 1/2. My enlarger is a Condenser enlarger a diffusor enlarger should work even better at taming the contrast and grain. Max enlargement size 60x60cm (120 neg) I admit most of my prints are on the small side 15 x 15cm to 24 x 24cm.
 
those of you shooting Foma 400 at box speed - have any of you had occasion to wet-print those negs? How did it go?

On box speed you can use FP400 only with a speed enhancing type developer. Otherwise a problem in the shadows.

My example is a Split Grade print from FP400 roll film. I am working with MG paper, Ilford MGIV , Ilford Gallery (2) fiber , Fomaspeed Variant, Fomabrom Variant (fiber) and some Fomatone MG (warmtone) and sometimes Bergger special papers and a (big) package Forte PW 14 (original from 2007).

On regular base within the grade 1,5 - 3,5 range. I have a Heiland Split Grade unit on my Dunco II 67 120 pro enlarger.
 
Been very happy with Fomapan 400 exposed at 200 and developed for 17 minutes at 20C in D76 1+3 :

7175421352_4a1f261517_b.jpg



7175421262_a8d6bf401e_b.jpg


I would not expose it at 400.

Working at 200 is fine, using D76 1+3 is very economical, and the film itself isn't expensive. What else ?
 
Last changes of all Fomapan 120 roll films:
Clear polyester layer.
Self adhesive strip for film closure.
Softer backing paper, more flexible.


Last changes in 35mm:
New cassettes and label.
New film in bulk (30,5m/100ft) available: Retropan 320 Soft.


Last changes in sheet film:
New film: Retropan 320 Soft. (4x5", 9x12cm, 5x7", 8x10")
 
I actually really like the result I am getting with fomapan400 developed in rodinal 1:50

having say that , i seen excellent result in fomapan400 developed in xtol which i would love to try.

6658021071_ff9d3dbdf7_b.jpg
 
Thank you for your comments. I see that everyone has his own opinion, which are not same. How about Fomapan 400 and Fomadon P combo?
 
Back
Top Bottom