best FSU 50mm lens for soft portraits?

[Assaf]

Hi there,
I want to put my hands on a 50mm LTM, intended primarily for female portraits. Pleasant dreamy bokeh, and soft focus.
I know most people use these lenses for BW, but I shoot primarily color. But it worked for me even with a Superia 800 on J8.

I can buy one of the following three from friends. Which one would you recommend?

1) Jupiter 3 - 50/1.5
2) Collapsible Industar 50/3.5
3) Jupiter 8 - 50/2

The first two are in fantastic condition, with the Russian letter P engraved on them

Comments would be welcome.

 

[xayraa33]

the J-3 would be my choice if it is well collimated.
I found that the late black J-3's to be softer at full bore than the silver aluminium ones, but they all vary all over the place.

 

[Uwe_Nds]

Seconded!
Go for the J-3.

Cheers,
Uwe

 

[brachal]

If it works properly, the J-3 would be the way to go. The J-8 would be nearly as good, but slower. Functional J-8s are far more common than J-3s. Can you do some test shots before you buy? The Industar isn't what most people would consider a good portrait lens, but I like them for almost everything else.

 

[Assaf]

Thanks friends,
I tested them today on a friend but am not sure how good the test was.
The J3 is in awesome condition and silver, including the Russian Pi engraved (what does it mean anyway?)

I don't care too much for the F1.5, I find it hard enough to focus F2 on my camera (Leica CL)

 

[Uwe_Nds]

Thanks friends,
I tested them today on a friend but am not sure how good the test was.
The J3 is in awesome condition and silver, including the Russian Pi engraved (what does it mean anyway?)

I don't care too much for the F1.5, I find it hard enough to focus F2 on my camera (Leica CL)

I am not too sure, but I think the "P" means coated.

If you can't focus the J-3 properly, then go for the J-8. Also saves you some money. :angel:

Cheers,
Uwe

 

[blazejs]

I never had J-3 but my J-8 wide open is very soft, thus I use it to portraits very often. J-3 or J-8 wide open would be best FSU lenses for soft portraits. Industar 50 even wide open is quite sharp in the centre. For portraits try better low ISO films (if you like soft and creamy pictures). I got great results with J-8 and Kodak Technical Pan (ISO 25).
Russian "Pi" letter is "P" in latin alphabet and I guess this must be something associated with coatings.. Anyway this is rather common for older lenses (like mine 1958 Jupiter 8).

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

I know it's not on your list - but have you considered the 85mm f2 J9?, at wide aperture it has all the right attributes, one of my favourite portrait lenses!.
Dave.

 

[Assaf]

Thanks Dave,
I considered the J9, but I prefer a 50mm lens because I primarily take environmental portraints. BTW, which F stop is the best for "soft face/nice bokeh"?
I want to go in the direction of the follwoing picture:

PS: I didn't understand the difference between the silver and black J3. Which one is sharper, which one is better built (better QA etc.)
Thanks
Assaf

 

[sweathog]

My battered J3!
That is the answer.
Or, more seriously, a J3. A good one.

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

Some short time ago, our friend Raid posted some very nice comparison portraits with these lenses at various apertures, and wide open, I don't know if they are still available, perhaps if he reads this thread he may give a link. I am unable to comment personally on quality of black v chrome, but would guess little difference between a GOOD example of either.
Cheers, Dave.

 

[40oz]

"BTW, which F stop is the best for "soft face/nice bokeh"? "

That would be f/1.5 generally. Shallowest depth of field, and IMHO opinion a very nice character out of focus.

Focusing a J-3 on a CL is not impossible. At wide open, it simply demands you be quite careful in focusing, and be aware that most fast 50's have some degree of focus shift. Slightly missed focus at wide open doesn't mean the camera isn't up to it, just that you might need to compensate for a slight shift in focus at f/1.5.

 

[blazejs]

Here's Jupiter 8 sample, wide open. Is this soft enough? 🙂

 

[Assaf]

Blazejs, it's great 🙂

 

[89rzweig]

My Jupiter-8 is quite soft wide open, but because it has f/2 maximum aperture, it has a bit more DoF. Jupiter-3 is no doubt a better lens, it has all the typical Sonnar features more pronounced -- beautiful bokeh and a bit soft wide open. And then it's very sharp and nicely contrasty when stopped down to f/5.6 and on.

J-8 is quite common lens and is ususally as cheap as dirt on eBay. J-3 on the other hand costs more and you never know what you will get, so be careful. You may end up with $100 worth piece of junk...

The attached photo was taken at the closest possible distance (1m) wide open (f/1.5) at 1/125, ISO 400 with my Epson R-D1s.

 

[rxmd]

I am not too sure, but I think the "P" means coated.

It does. П stands for просветленный ("prosvetlyonnyi") "coated". On later lenses, the absence of the P doesn't mean the lens is uncoated, only that coating wasn't special anymore so that they didn't mark it.

 

[ZorkiKat]

Another vote for the J-3.

I also second the comment about 'white' better than the 'black', later Jupiter-3. I have a 1953 J-3, worn looking barrel, and slightly scratched front surface. On digital this is what it does:

 

[Santafecino]

Wow Zorkikat that's dynamite. What a beautiful double portrait. Keep it up.

I love my J3 too and it works beautifully (after collimation) on my M5.

 

[dazedgonebye]

If you can get a J3 from a reliable source...someone that is shooting with it and will tell you all is well, someone from around here...that would be a good deal. On the other hand, it seems J8s in good shape are quite common.

 

[outfitter]

All three are fantastic lenses and used wide open they all exhibit sufficient aberrations to give a soft effect. The sonnar types (J-3 and J-8) are famous for their bokah, especially when used wide open.