parkpy
Member
Nikon FM2n is a fantastic tool to have in low light.
FE2 would be even better if it had a LED readout.
FE2 would be even better if it had a LED readout.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Consider modding your F3 so that the light illuminates your LCD's. I performed this mod (see F3 Tribute thread) on my F3P. Anytime your meter is activated the light comes on. I even find this useful during the day and in good light.
I also added a Beattie Intensescreen with just a split prism. The split prism is oversized making my F3 very rangefinder like. I use this F3P with my Noct-Nikkor.
Cal
kshapero
South Florida Man
BTW I am completely happy shooting an FE in low light.
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
If you're in f/1.4 and 3200 territory, it's not like you need a readout anyway. You're either going to take what shutter speed you can get in A or set your minimum hand-holdable speed and push the hell out of it. Also, little LEDs are going to upset your eyesight in low light anyway!
See? I just saved you the cost of a camera and, later, the cost of an RFF ad!
Dante
See? I just saved you the cost of a camera and, later, the cost of an RFF ad!
Dante
kshapero
South Florida Man
Dante_Stella said:If you're in f/1.4 and 3200 territory, it's not like you need a readout anyway. You're either going to take what shutter speed you can get in A or set your minimum hand-holdable speed and push the hell out of it. Also, little LEDs are going to upset your eyesight in low light anyway!
See? I just saved you the cost of a camera and, later, the cost of an RFF ad!
Dante
Completely agree
ChrisP
Grain Lover
thanks Dante! Send your paypal and I'll send you 10% orf the money you saved me!
Only reason I like the light is to know whether the shot is worth taking at all. I'll check out this LCD light always on thing though. Sounds interesting.
Only reason I like the light is to know whether the shot is worth taking at all. I'll check out this LCD light always on thing though. Sounds interesting.
If you're in f/1.4 and 3200 territory, it's not like you need a readout anyway. You're either going to take what shutter speed you can get in A or set your minimum hand-holdable speed and push the hell out of it. Also, little LEDs are going to upset your eyesight in low light anyway!
See? I just saved you the cost of a camera and, later, the cost of an RFF ad!
Dante
ChrisP
Grain Lover
Does Anyone have an image comparing the size of an F3 with F2AS? I just checked KEH, the prices of the F2AS's are less prohibitive than ebay suggests.
awilder
Alan Wilder
Here's a comparison photo including the F2S, F3T FM2T:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/htmls/index7.htm
The F2AS meter head is about 10-15% smaller than the F2S. Weight difference of the F3 and F2AS is about 100 grams. Overall, the size difference is not that much but the F3 appears more compact chiefly due to the smaller prism head and the body (without the prism head) is less tall. Other differences are less cocking torque of the F3's advance lever, much better (IMO) tactle feedback of the F2's mechanical shutter button compared to the "mushy" F3's electro-magneic release, inboard F3 meter with tighter 80/20 CW pattern works regardless of changing finders but the shutter is battery dependent except 1/60 sec. Of course auto exposure in the F3 but with a less useful manual "+- " LCD display compared to "+o-" LED display especially in poor light. Another F2AS minor touch that's continued in the tradition of the Photomic series is a duplicate external meter display at the top of the finder. The F3 has TTL flash with matching speedlight but it's truely primitive compared to say the F100.
The black F2AS KEH has listed on ebay for $433 comes with a 6 month warranty and looks like a nice BGN user body. Their other chrome BGN F2AS is $254, not a bad price. Mint shelf queens on ebay are still over $900 which is what they sold when new back in '79.
The F2AS meter head is about 10-15% smaller than the F2S. Weight difference of the F3 and F2AS is about 100 grams. Overall, the size difference is not that much but the F3 appears more compact chiefly due to the smaller prism head and the body (without the prism head) is less tall. Other differences are less cocking torque of the F3's advance lever, much better (IMO) tactle feedback of the F2's mechanical shutter button compared to the "mushy" F3's electro-magneic release, inboard F3 meter with tighter 80/20 CW pattern works regardless of changing finders but the shutter is battery dependent except 1/60 sec. Of course auto exposure in the F3 but with a less useful manual "+- " LCD display compared to "+o-" LED display especially in poor light. Another F2AS minor touch that's continued in the tradition of the Photomic series is a duplicate external meter display at the top of the finder. The F3 has TTL flash with matching speedlight but it's truely primitive compared to say the F100.
The black F2AS KEH has listed on ebay for $433 comes with a 6 month warranty and looks like a nice BGN user body. Their other chrome BGN F2AS is $254, not a bad price. Mint shelf queens on ebay are still over $900 which is what they sold when new back in '79.
migtex
Don't eXchange Freedom!
ok, this is going to hurt.
I just spend the last half hour trying all the suggestions... with the exception of F2 SB.
my research (lol) results are: Nikon FG, F2As, FM2/T = F4, F3... these is regarding the readout of course.
In terms of using, the FG and FM2/T are unbeatable due the size and weight.
Just my 2 cents
Bring the torch...
I just spend the last half hour trying all the suggestions... with the exception of F2 SB.
my research (lol) results are: Nikon FG, F2As, FM2/T = F4, F3... these is regarding the readout of course.
In terms of using, the FG and FM2/T are unbeatable due the size and weight.
Just my 2 cents
Bring the torch...
