Best Reels for Developing 120 Film?

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giganova

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Hi all --

I have been using JOBO developing tanks for years for my 35mm negatives and always loved the system. But now that I am using more and more 120 medium format, I find the Jobo reels very frustrating! Getting the film on the reel is a pain, and the film gets stuck spooling halfway on the reel for every single strip of film that I am developing (yes, I cut the corners of the start of the film). Plus, I broke many of the plastic reels because the first "rib" on the reel is so whimsical. I slight pressure with your thumb and it will break.

Q: Are there better reels that I can use with my existing Jobo 1500 tanks?

Q: What system would be better to develop 120 film? I have no need for a single tank, I need a tank that can hold at least 3 rolls of 120 film.

Thanks!
 
Long time ago, back in the 1970's, Patterson made plastic reels that loaded real easily. They were the reels with three locking nibs on the female side of the reel (where the two halves fit together). Not sure if they beveled the ribs where the film slides across or what, but they loaded very easily. The current Patterson plastic reels, with the two locking nibs, don't load anywhere near as easily.

So I switched to Stainless Steel reels. Made by Hewes, I believe. Took some practice at first, but now I can load them much faster than the original Patterson plastic reels. At one time you could buy a stainless steel tank that held more than two 120 reels, not seeing it at B&H at this time, possibly at Freestyle.

Best,
-Tim
 
I was always a stainless steel guy when I shot film. The 120 stainless reels are made of thicker material than the 35mm ones so they are sturdier and less likely to bend if dropped. Because of that, I frequently used the off-brand ones like Kalt and they worked well. I also had a few Hewes and Nikor reels I picked up at garage sales over the years. If you can find them at a decent price, they're excellent.
 
After decades of loading plastic, steel, and whatever reels, I now shoot such small quantities of film that developing one roll is an event. I've gone to make it as painless as possible and use an ancient daylight loading Agfa Rondinax developing tanks, both the 35mm type and the 120 type. These make it easy.

Of course, since they're continuous agitation systems, I've modified my EI and chemistry to suit.

(A modern rendering of this concept is in progress on Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2017788873/lab-box-the-first-multi-format-daylight-loading-fi ... They're working on it, hopefully I'll see product soon as my Agfa tanks are really getting old and fragile at this point.)

For my experiments with Washi-paper based 120 film, none of these reels work ... It's to fragile and delicate. They recommend open tray development, which isn't feasible for me since I no longer have a darkroom. So I picked up a couple of Kodakcraft 120/620/35mm tanks from the '50s-'60s that use the 'wavy edge' film separating skirt. These work great and are super easy to load, if utterly un-modern in their operation. Supply seems to be getting a bit scarce, but if you take care of the skirt and keep from cracking it, they should last forever. They work fine with the Washi 120. :)
 
With a traditional tank Hewes reels are a no-brainer for 35mm fiilm, but for 120 any sturdy steel reel with a reliable clip will do.

For a Jobo? No idea. Perhaps you could sell a kidney or two (don't have to be your own) to pay for the matching Hewes reels?
 
I have had ZERO problems loading the current Paterson System 4 plastic reels. There are two tabs you can easily feel at the film entry point. Slide about 4 inches onto the outer ring starting at the tabs, then "ratchet" the rest of the roll on. Super EZ. And the reels are adjustable for 35mm or 120.
 
I've used the Patterson with the occasional issue with the first feeding in, but have always wanted to try the AP reel as it has large alignment flanges designed to help.
The AP is compatible with the Paterson system
 
rodt16s said:
I've used the Patterson with the occasional issue with the first feeding in, but have always wanted to try the AP reel as it has large alignment flanges designed to help.
The AP is compatible with the Paterson system
Click to expand...

I have a mixture of the Patterson and Arista reels here, I have gotten to a point that I usually don’t have too many problems loading 120 onto the Patterson reels (but, occasionally I do); the Arista reels (available at Freestyle) are similar to the AP reels in that they have a track feeding system to facilitate getting the film started on the reel, which makes them pretty much idiot proof. For 120, I have found them much easier and quicker to load than the Patterson reels.
 
I have occasional problems with the Patterson reels with 120 film - not being able to advance the film fully onto the reel (especially in hot humid weather). Clipping the corners off the leading edge seems to help. Never a problem with 35mm in those same reels.
 
giganova said:
The Hewes steel reels that are compatible for the Jobo system look great ... but $50 for one reel? :eek:
Click to expand...


well worth it compared to any other steel reel out there. I don't want to think about how many 35 and 120 Hewes reels I use (for 1500 series tanks) but oh man, loading them is pure joy compared to other reels..
 
giganova said:
The Hewes steel reels that are compatible for the Jobo system look great ... but $50 for one reel? :eek:
Click to expand...

I don't get the cost of Hewes reels. Way way over priced.

My vote, Nikor or Kinderman. I use Nikors that my dad bought 60 years ago in both 35 and 120 that are still in perfect shape. I have other Nikor resls I bought used 40-50 years ago as we as Kinderman I bought both new and used 40-50 years ago. I've literally run tens of thousands of rolls on them with no problems. I'm guessing I spent an average of $5 each on the used one. $50 for a single reel, crazy!
 
Paterson plastic reels are a breeze to load with 120 film if you remember to snip the outermost edges of the end that loads onto the reel. It also helps to give the film a twist backwards to take some of the curl out of it. Just make sure everything is bone dry. If the film or reel are not, then you will have problems. If you're having trouble, it also may be due to chemical buildup on the reels that you can't see or feel. Give them a good scrub with warm water and vinegar with a little baking soda.

These reels don't like it when you twist both sides back and forth to advance the film into them. Works much better to firmly hold one side and rock the other side back and forth. I never develop more than one roll of film at a time. If you have a problem anywhere in the developing process you have two or three rolls that are messed up. With one roll, that's all you can screw up. Mistakes happen. One mistake is preferable to three.
 
Larry Cloetta said:
I have a mixture of the Patterson and Arista reels here, I have gotten to a point that I usually don’t have too many problems loading 120 onto the Patterson reels (but, occasionally I do); the Arista reels (available at Freestyle) are similar to the AP reels in that they have a track feeding system to facilitate getting the film started on the reel, which makes them pretty much idiot proof. For 120, I have found them much easier and quicker to load than the Patterson reels.
Click to expand...

Useful info Larry, thanks.
I will have to acquire an AP reel and road test itt...
Likewise it's now only occasional issues I have with Paterson / 120, but that is too much
 
I use Paterson for 35mm, but hate them for 120 - the ball bearing always seems to bite.
I use Jobo for 120, I push the film in, and use my fingers on the depressed areas to gently make sure the corners don’t catch. I hate the Jobos for 35mm.
I’ve never used SS reels, the buy in cost is prohibitive when I have a setup that works for me.
 
ruby.monkey said:
With a traditional tank Hewes reels are a no-brainer for 35mm fiilm, but for 120 any sturdy steel reel with a reliable clip will do.
Click to expand...

Clips cause problems for me. I find it hard to center the film exactly between the flanges while inserting into the clip. And the off-center loading then prevents the film from loading properly. It doesn't have to be very far off to make the film bind and crinkle. So I just start the film onto the reel without clipping it. Seems OK.

Is it easier to center the film on the clip with Hewes reels?
 
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