Bluefire Police in machine developer

[rumblesushi]

Hello,

I recently bought 5 rolls of Bluefire Police, only slight problem is I don't have a darkroom and the only developing lab near me only do B&W machine processing, with Ilford Ilfotec RT Rapid.

Do you have any idea if the shots will be at all serviceable in this developer? And if so, what the dev time would be at the suggested EI80? Or indeed for a significantly lower ISO, if that would produce better results.

Cheers.

 

[rfaspen]

I don't know the answer to your question, but I don't think you need a darkroom to develop these films.

Daylight developing tanks are inexpensive and widely available. Load the reels at night in the bathroom with the window covered and perhaps the door sill. Often, that's plenty dark for loading. Or, sometimes I load my reels in my coat closet during daytime because it is interior and dark as any darkroom once I'm trapped inside.

From that point, everything can happen in light (at the kitchen sink for me). You can use the correct developer at the suggested times, or play with parameters as you like. Hang negs to dry in the bathroom so dust is kept to a minimum. This is part of the fun of film, no?

 

[charjohncarter]

I develop my Blue fire police in HC-110 (1:125) for 17 minutes. I also use very little, very little agitation as highlight blows are a problem. I also use E.V. of 10. This is not a sunny day film. So for me it is indoors or cloudy days. It's too bad about the machine developer, because I think it will overdevelop.

I find the film does not scan well with my scanner, but the prints can be great.

 

[rumblesushi]

I don't know the answer to your question, but I don't think you need a darkroom to develop these films.

Daylight developing tanks are inexpensive and widely available. Load the reels at night in the bathroom with the window covered and perhaps the door sill. Often, that's plenty dark for loading. Or, sometimes I load my reels in my coat closet during daytime because it is interior and dark as any darkroom once I'm trapped inside.

From that point, everything can happen in light (at the kitchen sink for me). You can use the correct developer at the suggested times, or play with parameters as you like. Hang negs to dry in the bathroom so dust is kept to a minimum. This is part of the fun of film, no?

Thanks for the reply. With some dilligent window covering etc, this would be an option, but for me it would be a last resort. I'd much rather find a lab that could process the negs for me.

To answer your question - not for me, no. I love taking photos, and I love the way film looks. The time spent in a darkroom, I'd much rather be walking the streets taking photos.

Ironically I don't mind scanning film, and enjoy seeing my photos appear one by one, but I've never enjoyed darkroom duties much.

 

[rumblesushi]

Thanks for the info and samples charjohncarter. Why do you think it doesn't scan well, because it's so thin?

 

[charjohncarter]

Thanks for the info and samples charjohncarter. Why do you think it doesn't scan well, because it's so thin?

All I know is my prints from negatives are better than my scans. But to some extent I could say that about any of my scans (sent for prints) vs my prints. Just that the Copy Film is a more but only more slightly dramatic difference.

This is a similar film from 40+ years ago, BUT developed with the H&W developer. And I found that it was much better for developing this type of film. I'm just too lazy to mix my own chemicals, and as you can see there is a heavy outside light coming in from the left that isn't too bad):

 

[rumblesushi]

I quite like the look of this one actually, I like the bright, silvery sheen it has. What film was it?

As far as scans go, I must admit I'm very impressed with my film scanners. For prosumer models, they are better than I expected. I have a PI 7250 Pro 3, and a Plustek 8100. The Plustek is subpar for colour, but excellent for B&W. The PI is very good for both.

 

[charjohncarter]

It was called H&W film. From around 1971, but it is basically the same as Bluefire Police. The BFP site has a developer that is the same as the H&W developer, BUT they are not seeming to sell it anymore. So I just tried HC-110 at a high dilution.

Again, H&W film:

I have found that in the right lighting conditions it gives excellent portrait qualities. One thing is for sure, if you get so you can control it, you turn your 35mm camera into a 120 or larger.

 

[Fotohuis]

BFP is an old type Agfa Gevaert micro film. More modern and better choices are ATP1,1 (Rollei) or Adox CMS 20, both also produced by Agfa Gevaert. You always need a low contrast type developer for these film, hence the dedicated (low contrast type) developers made by SPUR for Rollei and for Adox/Fotoimpex.
The biggest problem is using these films in a high contrast light situation scene and the slow speed of E.I. 6-20.

 

[rumblesushi]

charjohncarter - yep, it was the incredible resolution that attracted me. Ultimately resolution is not that important to me, Tri-X is my favourite film, but I can't help but be curious about achieving 120 resolution with 35mm.

Fotohuis - As it happens I checked out that Advanced Tech Pan on your site just a couple of days ago.

Are any other high resolution films you sell compatible with a normal developer, such as Rollei Retro 80 or RPX 25?

 

[Fotohuis]

You mentioned already Rollei Retro 80S and Rollei RPX-25. Also the new Rollei Ortho 25, production from OrWo Filmotec.