Book or web site recommendations?

A

alien8

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Hi All,

I will be coming back to b + w film processing in a big way once my first rangefinder camera arrives this Friday. I will probably start off just using tri-x and d-76 using old developing times from my old notebooks or just the recommendations off the box. But soon I will want to take a more studied approach to get consistent and predictable results. I would like to (re)learn about:
  • Effects of various developers or various emulsions/film stocks
  • How to play with under/over development and exposure to adjust for different levels of scene contrast
  • How to conduct fairly rigorous tests to view and measure the results of the above.
  • How to do all of the above without getting involved with using the zone system (not practical for roll film
  • And other like topics
Can anyone recommend a great book or two that covers these kinds of topics? I used to have Horenstein's Black and White photography, but can't seem to find my copy, and not sure how in depth it is on these concerns. Anyway, if anyone has any other book ideas, or great web sites that going detail on these topics, please let me know.

Thanks in advance,
Sean
 
Dear Sean,

Well, I'm biased... But there are several free modules in The Photo School on my web site that you might find of use.

Cheers,

Roger
 
Thanks, Roger, I checked out your site and it's a great resource. I'd also like to find a book to read on this subject. Has anyone tried Horenstein's Beyond Basic Photography?
 
alien8 said:
Thanks, Roger, I checked out your site and it's a great resource. I'd also like to find a book to read on this subject. Has anyone tried Horenstein's Beyond Basic Photography?
Click to expand...
Apart from my own books -- bias again! -- I'd suggest the standard works such as Haist, Glafkides or Neblette, or for something a little lighter, Coote. Google the names, along with 'photography'. These will teach you all the theory you need (and it is real sensitometry and science). After that it's practice. Sorry: don't know Horenstein's book.

For exposure, try Dunne or indeed my own Perfect Exposure (which draws heavily on Dunne but is 50 years newer). Books going back to the 30s can still teach you an enormous amount about the basics: more than many modern, popularizing works that sometimes 'dumb down'.

Cheers,

Roger
 
Roger,

I have Dunne's book, a later editionpublished around 1980 I think. I originally saw an old one from the 50's at the library in my hometown and thought it was an incredible book. It took years of scouring used bookstores to find one, the newer one I have. i'd always wondered why someone didn't publish something like that now. I'll have to look for your book.

What I really want though is one of those SEI Photometers that Dunne talks about!
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
What I really want though is one of those SEI Photometers that Dunne talks about!
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Dear Christopher,

I have one! Not only that: it's the LED version...

The original bulbs are unobtainable, though you can make them up. But there's an LED module that replaces the bulb and is more consistent and uses less power: see http://www.textklick.demon.co.uk/sei.htm

I should warn you that the meter is not easy to use. The telescope is upside-down and you really need the new scales that are also available. Athough it is incredibly versatile, accurate and sensitive, I have to admit that I mostly use more modern spotmeters.

Cheers,

Roger
 
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Roger,

I am jealous. Green. I WANT one! lol I know a modern spotmeter is probably easier and more convenient to use. I have a Gossen Ultra Spot II that I bought when I was in college by Saving money for like 2 years to buy it. I like it, easy to use and accurate. But I love old funky things like that. Probably why I occasionally get out my old Rolleiflex Automat with uncoated lenses or my old Chinese made Seagull 35mm SLR every once in a while to shoot with. Yeah, I actually have a Seagull 35mm camera....most people think of them for the TLRs, mine's a 35mm SLR modeled after an old 1960's era Minolta with no meter. totally fun, though certainly not the best built SLR and a little cranky to use.

But what can I say, I grew up using the Olympus OM-System and wouldn't trade one of my OM-4T bodies for an F6 or any other 'modern' way too big, too electronic, too computerized 35mm camera.
 
Hi Chris,

I just checked out your blog and your b + w work has incredible tonality (great composition too). What film/developer combination are you using? (please don't tell me they're shot with an m8 :) )
 
alien8 said:
Hi Chris,

I just checked out your blog and your b + w work has incredible tonality (great composition too). What film/developer combination are you using? (please don't tell me they're shot with an m8 :) )
Click to expand...

I'm PoWhiteTrash, I don't have an M8 or any other Leica...lol

The first photo, the one of the door, was shot on Kodak T400CN, 120 size that got standard C-41 process.

summerkitchen-door.jpg



This is Efke KB-100, 35mm, developed in PMK.

lacantina.jpg



This is Ilford XP-2, 35mm, C-41 processed at a local lab.

mack-lightsaber.jpg



Grandpa is on Tmax 400, 35mm, Developed in Tmax Developer 1+7

grandpa_4-28-07_num2.jpg



Tmax 3200, 35mm, Tmax Developer 1+4

o-l-duncan.jpg



Tmax 100, 35mm, in Rodinal 1+50

waldo-canyon13.jpg


The thing is I use a lot of films on my blog because recently I have been experimenting with different stuff. For the last ten years I did virtually everything on Tmax films.

Tmax 100 was developed in Rodinal 1+50
Tmax 400 was developed in Tmax Developer 1+7
Tmax 3200 was developed in Tmax 1+4

That was my standard but Kodak changed these films when they went to thier new coating facility a couple years ago and completely ruined them. Tmax 100 is now as grainy as Tmax 400 used to be and Tmax 400 is a little grainier than it used to be. I still like the 3200 film.

I've been trying different stuff to replace Tmax 100 and 400. The new version of Tmax 400 looks exciting and I'll be trying it as soon as I can get some. I have pretty much settled on Ilford Pan-F to replace tmax 100. I develop Pan F in rodinal 1+50 like this one.

rainbow-snow1.jpg
 
alien8 said:
Great stuff! I think I'll give the pan-f and rodinal a try. What kind time/temp/agitation do you suggest?
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The photo I posted was done at 1+50 dilution, 68 deg, 12 minutes. Keep in mind that I am scanning my film, not printing in the darkroom anymore due to chemical allergies. The negs look to me like they'd print well on grade 2 paper on a diffusion enlarger. EI was 50.

Agitation was first 30 sec, then 5 inversions every minute. I've been thinking of trying a higher dilution like 1+75 or 1+100 but haven't had the chance to try yet.
 
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