Bought 1 C 1931 model-so what's next? CLA I assume.

[David Hughes]

What every else you do or have done, I hope you have got you hands on the manual and are studying it...

Regards, David

PS Being sensible; a thorough check etc by an expert but it's hard to resist putting a film in it.

 

[algrove]

No manual came with this camera. I wonder if an old Manual is still intact and available. Thus, I appreciate any advice. Thanks.

 

[David Hughes]

No manual came with this camera. I wonder if an old Manual is still intact and available. Thus, I appreciate any advice. Thanks.

Your best bet is to look for a model II manual (lots of pdf's about) and ignore the bits about the built in rangefinder.

If you are lucky then look for a reprint of the manual, Morgan and Morgan did one ages ago.

There's also the Focal Leica Guide but look for an old one as the guides are updated and a 1940's one might be best for your model.

There's hundreds of books about the Leicas, jammed with facts and figures and tips. You just have to cross your fingers and start looking and buying.

Have fun. David

 

[Erik van Straten]

An easy test too is to set the speed dial to "Z", put the camera close to your ear and press the release button. You will hear the sound of the first curtain. After a few seconds, release the shutter button and listen closely to the sound of the second curtain. If you hear squeaks and grinding, the camera needs a CLA. The sound should be a beautiful smooth buzzing. The mechanism of second curtain is the most vulnerable spot of the whole camera.

Erik.

 

[Ambro51]

filedata/fetch?filedataid=120573

​ Does your camera have the “O” stamped on the lens flange? 1c’s initially were not “standardized”, and required matching lenses. About 1/3 through the production run, the film to flange distance was “standardized” at 28.8mm, and the”O” is stamped on the flange. Non standard early 1c’s are rarer, and more valuable to a collector. Use of regular lenses on non standard cameras will show slight variations of focus.

 

[Dralowid]

Pity the poor OP, I only hope we haven't scared him out of using it with all these tales of complexity a quirkiness! It is a simple camera and without the paint not of enormous value to a collector.

 

[Vince Lupo]

Pity the poor OP, I only hope we haven't scared him out of using it with all these tales of complexity a quirkiness! It is a simple camera and without the paint not of enormous value to a collector.

Seriously -- you really don't need to use a manual to figure out how to operate this camera. Hardest thing is just loading the film and after that, well, there isn't much else!

 

[algrove]

Yes "O" stamped on top of lens mount. This is a 1 C the first model with interchangeable lens capability.

 

[algrove]

Yes "O" stamped on top of lens mount. This is a 1 C the first model with interchangeable lens capability.

 

[Pál_K]

Al, do you know how to load film into this type of Leica? It is not difficult at all once you trim the leader properly - I can load my Leica III reliably in under 30 seconds. The two most important things are to trim the leader properly and to ensure a tooth on the sprocket cylinder has engaged a film sprocket hole before winding and putting the baseplate back on. Many internet descriptions about loading these cameras are unnecessarily complicated.

 

[Godfrey]

I had IIc and IIf, plus my father's IIIf after he passed away. Never saw instructions for loading until long after ... was never that difficult. I had more trouble loading an M4-P or (film) CL the first time I had one... LOL!

G

 

[David Hughes]

Not much point in having a body with a "0" on the lens mount if it's not on the lens as well. The zero will be on the body of the lens by the infinity lock.

As I see it us old gits with experience of film cameras will see the Barnack Leicas as simple but someone with only experience of modern digitals will see it as baffling or, perhaps, as fiendishly complex. And as for those poor dears who only use smug phones...

More to the point, we were asked for tips. My one, apart from read the manual first, would be to check that the rewind knob turns as the film is advanced. And it might be an idea to point out that the first two frames have to be 'wasted' and then the counter set to zero. And so on and so forth; so why not read the manual first?

Regards, David

 

[Mr_Flibble]

Not much point in having a body with a "0" on the lens mount if it's not on the lens as well. The zero will be on the body of the lens by the infinity lock.

Only if you want to mount period standardized lenses. Newer lenses didn't have the "0" anymore and those will work perfectly well on a "0"-marked body.

 

[Malcolm M]

If it were mine, my first thought would be to run a roll of film through it. Use all the shutter speeds and check for uneven exposures. Leave it on a windowsill (not in direct sunlight) shutter cocked and uncocked, for a few hours, to check for pinholes and other light leaks. If it works, leave it alone.

 

[Godfrey]

If it were mine, my first thought would be to run a roll of film through it. Use all the shutter speeds and check for uneven exposures. Leave it on a windowsill (not in direct sunlight) shutter cocked and uncocked, for a few hours, to check for pinholes and other light leaks. If it works, leave it alone.

While that would be fine for a camera or other small, mechanical device up to about 30 years old, for a camera from the early 1950s to middle 1930s, before the advent of modern synthetic lubricants, it will likely lead to excessive wear on the shutter and wind mechanisms. All mechanical clockworks need cleaning and service periodically, modern ones far less frequently due to the improvements in lubricants, but old ones like this should be serviced at least once if being put into regular use now so as to replace the lubricants with the modern varieties.

I have sent each of my older cameras off, one at a time, to be cleaned, lubed, and calibrated ... the results I get from them and their reliability show that this has been very helpful.

G

 

[x-ray]

I bought my first M2 used in 1968 as a young PJ and since then owned a dozen and a half or so M and LTM bodies ranging from the 30’s to new. The only one I’ve had to have the shutter serviced on is an early 60’s model I still use. It started capping early a few years ago and a simple cla took care of it.

Leicas are not delicate artifacts that will crumble at the slightest touch. They’re durable and made to use heavily. Do not get caught up in this stuff. Just use it. Even if lubricants are dry and the camera is running fine you’re not going to damage it shooting a dozen or so rolls a year through it. Matter of fact Leica removed the lubricants from cameras to be used in cold conditions. They ran dry, no lube and we’re not damaged.

Best advice based on experience, load it and shoot it. Enjoy the experience. If it’s not functioning properly then get a cla.

Best advice on loading it, cut the leader of your film longer like film was years ago. The leader is too short now and makes it more difficult to load. Don’t bother buying an expensive template, just search the internet and you’ll find how to cut it. It makes it easier.