bright morning sunshine metering help

[faris]

I am struggling with taking pics in our bright sunshine with the m7 and mp as the
light levels exceed the 1/1000 sec shutter speed. i can only goto f16/f22. this too
indicates that the speed required is outside the limit of 1/1000 sec.

i use bn400cn or ilford xp2 super. besides using a low iso bw film what options
are available to me? i want to stick to c41 process film.

the nikon dslr and the m8 can go to higher speeds and do not pose a problem.

are there ND filters available for the M series?

Will be grateful for any advice.

May I wish you all and your loved ones the best now and for the future.

Thank you.

 

[MartinP]

There are ND filters of various qualities available for sure. You could also find a yellow-green filter, which may help differentiate clouds and skin tone while costing two stops.

 

[Pherdinand]

lucky you. I loaded my rolleiflex with fp4+ to test it after the service, and still waiting for a day when i can do it without a tripod and using full aperture!!!

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

I get bright light here too, and use ISO 100 C41 film.

You can always take the color out later.

The biggest problem is the contrast between brightly lit areas and deep shade

 

[faris]

Martin,

Thanks for your suggestion. Expensive..this leica hobby!

Best.

There are ND filters of various qualities available for sure. You could also find a yellow-green filter, which may help differentiate clouds and skin tone while costing two stops.

 

[faris]

Pherdinand, sometimes a blessing...in summer..another matter.

Season's greetings

lucky you. I loaded my rolleiflex with fp4+ to test it after the service, and still waiting for a day when i can do it without a tripod and using full aperture!!!

 

[faris]

Jon, i am off to get some iso 100 c41 film.

Take care and thanks.

I get bright light here too, and use ISO 100 C41 film.

You can always take the color out later.

The biggest problem is the contrast between brightly lit areas and deep shade

 

[ben lloyd]

I've 2 thoughts on this:

Firstly you could down-rate to 200, a lot of people do this for the C41 B&W films and say it gives a better tonal range and (strangely) smoother grain. (I say strange because overexposing and then developing normally should give bigger grain, but its something to do with the dye clouds..)

Secondly, have a google for "sunny 16" rule of exposure, you shouldn't really be hitting faster than 1/500 at f16 in any sunlight with 400 speed film.

 

[faris]

ben, thanks for looking. leads me to 2 further questions:

1. I reasoned that by down-rating the film to 200, wouldn't I be overexposing?
I set the film to 200 and then reset to 400. Film is scarce as hen's teeth around
here.

2. 'Sunny 16 '. exactly my quandry. I should set f16 and 1/400(1/500), but i tested
with 2 nikons, 3 leicas and a zi. all were outside the 1/1000 sec limit. strange..very
very strange. I did try matrix and spot too!

My best to you.

I've 2 thoughts on this:

Firstly you could down-rate to 200, a lot of people do this for the C41 B&W films and say it gives a better tonal range and (strangely) smoother grain. (I say strange because overexposing and then developing normally should give bigger grain, but its something to do with the dye clouds..)

Secondly, have a google for "sunny 16" rule of exposure, you shouldn't really be hitting faster than 1/500 at f16 in any sunlight with 400 speed film.

 

[FPjohn]

Incident Reading

Incident Reading

Hello:

Downrating c41 B&W 400 film to 200 and/or using a yellow/yellow-green filter is good advice.

You might consider taking an incident light reading with a handheld meter or reading from a 18% gray card.

Best for the season.

yours
Frank

 

[faris]

Hi Frank,

Season's best to you and your family. I shall try your suggestions.
Was in Edmonton, Alberta a couple of weeks ago...brrrrrrr. vaminosed for home
pronto. it is was 14C in the morning with strong sunshine.

best regards.

Hello:

Downrating c41 B&W 400 film to 200 and/or using a yellow/yellow-green filter is good advice.

You might consider taking an incident light reading with a handheld meter or reading from a 18% gray card.

Best for the season.

yours
Frank

 

[FPjohn]

-1c

-1c

Hello faris:

It is mild here for the Holiday, -1C.

Best of light to you and in the right quantities!

yours
Frank

 

[waileong]

Just shoot anyway

Just shoot anyway

Overexposure is not a problem with neg films. You could be 3-4 stops overexposed and it doesn't matter when printing, the lab will correct it.

Alternatively, ask the lab to pull the development. Will cost you a bit more though, and in my view, is a waste of money.

Another option is to not shoot at midday. The sun is so harsh anyway, you'll get unflattering pictures. At the least, I'd suggest you wait for the sun to hide behind the clouds.

PS You can use a red filter to cut exposure by 2-3 stops. That really helps with blue skies.

I am struggling with taking pics in our bright sunshine with the m7 and mp as the
light levels exceed the 1/1000 sec shutter speed. i can only goto f16/f22. this too
indicates that the speed required is outside the limit of 1/1000 sec.

i use bn400cn or ilford xp2 super. besides using a low iso bw film what options
are available to me? i want to stick to c41 process film.

the nikon dslr and the m8 can go to higher speeds and do not pose a problem.

are there ND filters available for the M series?

Will be grateful for any advice.

May I wish you all and your loved ones the best now and for the future.

Thank you.

 

[faris]

Waileong, thanks for your input. i shall try to get a yellow or red filter. the push/pull and the labs are a non-starter. i scan the c41 negs.

May you live happily and prosper.

Overexposure is not a problem with neg films. You could be 3-4 stops overexposed and it doesn't matter when printing, the lab will correct it.

Alternatively, ask the lab to pull the development. Will cost you a bit more though, and in my view, is a waste of money.

Another option is to not shoot at midday. The sun is so harsh anyway, you'll get unflattering pictures. At the least, I'd suggest you wait for the sun to hide behind the clouds.

PS You can use a red filter to cut exposure by 2-3 stops. That really helps with blue skies.

 

[Nikon Bob]

I use the Kodak C41 B&W film by rating it at 200 and having it processed as normal at a 1 hr lab. No need to tell the lab anything especially push/pull requests as it will only confuse them. This has worked very well for me. I habitually use a yellow filter also and set my hand meter at 100 to compensate for the filter. On cameras having TTL metering that is not necessary as the TTL will take into account the filter factor. You must have some really strange scenes to meter if all your TTL cameras are fooled to that degree. I guess that just goes to show that you shouldn't believe what a camera TTL meter is telling you all of the time. I also have a 2 stop ND filter that I use when I shoot 400 colour C41 as 100 colour C41 is not easy to get locally. Again your in camera TTL meter should compensate for the ND filter and in the case of a 2 stop ND/ 400 film give an in camera reading close to that for 100 film.

Bob