Michael P.
Bronica RF
I've had a couple of rolls of film in my Bronica RF 645 that wound loosely on the takeup spool and some shots were ruined by light seeping in after removing the film from the camera. Both rolls happened to be Fuji. I can't see how I could have started the film differently on the takeup spool. Has anyone else had this problem?
RObert Budding
D'oh!
I never had that problem with my RF 645, and I did shoot quite a bit of Fuji film.
kuzano
Veteran
Not enough tension on film roll before closing camera??
Not enough tension on film roll before closing camera??
Loose film in the takeup is usually caused by not keeping the film tight as you load in the takeup spool. Some cameras have a friction roller on the film side to hold the film supply roll. Fuji rangefinders are notorious for slack film on the takeup spool if you don't follow the clear directions in the manual about holding film tension on the supply roll qs you close the door. If there is any rise or bulge in the film across the film gate, you'll get slack on takeup.
While I know this is a problem on Fuji 120 early rangefinders, I don't specifically know about the Bronica.
I once saw it bad enough that the film roll bound up in midroll and I had to open the camera and fish the roll out. Since that episode, I am very cautious and use all the hands I have available to keep the roll tight coming off the supply. I have not had this problem with any 120 roll film in years, but I load every roll as if it may happen.
I think the mechanics of the problem are this:
If the film is bulged or not down flat on the film gate, when you close the door the bulge is pushed as slack onto the takeup spool and starts to form a "wad" or loose bulge on the roll. That bulge grows with each crank of the winder arm. Making sure the film is tight across the gate, which always involves holding one finger on the supply roll while tightening the slack out with the winder, prevents the stack from starting. I hold one finger on the supply roll and the other hand on the winder keeping tension as the film door/film platen comes down on my supply roll finger, then gently slide the finger out and close/lock the door in one deft and almost superhuman move. Your toungue should just be sticking out of the right corner of your lips and bite tension just on the threshold of pain.
OK, forget that last little bit, but I am dead serious about maintaining tension on the roll throughout the loading process.
Not enough tension on film roll before closing camera??
Loose film in the takeup is usually caused by not keeping the film tight as you load in the takeup spool. Some cameras have a friction roller on the film side to hold the film supply roll. Fuji rangefinders are notorious for slack film on the takeup spool if you don't follow the clear directions in the manual about holding film tension on the supply roll qs you close the door. If there is any rise or bulge in the film across the film gate, you'll get slack on takeup.
While I know this is a problem on Fuji 120 early rangefinders, I don't specifically know about the Bronica.
I once saw it bad enough that the film roll bound up in midroll and I had to open the camera and fish the roll out. Since that episode, I am very cautious and use all the hands I have available to keep the roll tight coming off the supply. I have not had this problem with any 120 roll film in years, but I load every roll as if it may happen.
I think the mechanics of the problem are this:
If the film is bulged or not down flat on the film gate, when you close the door the bulge is pushed as slack onto the takeup spool and starts to form a "wad" or loose bulge on the roll. That bulge grows with each crank of the winder arm. Making sure the film is tight across the gate, which always involves holding one finger on the supply roll while tightening the slack out with the winder, prevents the stack from starting. I hold one finger on the supply roll and the other hand on the winder keeping tension as the film door/film platen comes down on my supply roll finger, then gently slide the finger out and close/lock the door in one deft and almost superhuman move. Your toungue should just be sticking out of the right corner of your lips and bite tension just on the threshold of pain.
OK, forget that last little bit, but I am dead serious about maintaining tension on the roll throughout the loading process.
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Michael P.
Bronica RF
Thanks. Sounds like you've hit the nail on the head. I'll try keeping tension on the roll as you've described.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I have heard that it's important to keep exposed 120 away from a light source ... I put exposed rolls into a black bag as soon as I take them out of the camera as it is prone to bleeding light in around the edge of the film even on a tightly wound roll apparently.
Add the Bronica's rather dodgy film advance mechanism to this and you have a problem. I also keep plenty of tension on the roll as I'm advancing it on to the takeup spool and do this with presure on the edge of the flanges of the spool and not the film roll itself.
Add the Bronica's rather dodgy film advance mechanism to this and you have a problem. I also keep plenty of tension on the roll as I'm advancing it on to the takeup spool and do this with presure on the edge of the flanges of the spool and not the film roll itself.
Turtle
Veteran
no probs with either of my RF645 bodies, but my new Mamiya 7 can be a little slack. Check the rollers are pushing the film nicely up against the take up spool.
Michael P.
Bronica RF
I never had a problem like this with film in my Yashica Mat, but that uses 120 and the problem seems to be with 220, come to think of it.
mdelevie
Established
I've learned to match the take-up spool to the film spool by manufacturer. There seem to be minor differences between fuji, kodak, and ilford spools, so I keep one of each in my bag with the fresh film. Call me superstitious, but I've seen too much edge leakage from getting it wrong.
BTW, I really like that Fuji has the hole in the paper leader and the corresponding hook in the take-up spool. I find it the easiest to get started.
Another possibility for edge leakage is from squeezing the roll, if there's any slack you might cause it to bulge outward where you're <not> squeezing it and let light in. Be super careful with the exposed roll.
I use the little plastic tubes from Porter's camera. They're great! Here's a link:
http://porters.com/ and search up part number 150254. These protect my exposed film from a multitude of hazards, not just stray light.
BTW, I really like that Fuji has the hole in the paper leader and the corresponding hook in the take-up spool. I find it the easiest to get started.
Another possibility for edge leakage is from squeezing the roll, if there's any slack you might cause it to bulge outward where you're <not> squeezing it and let light in. Be super careful with the exposed roll.
I use the little plastic tubes from Porter's camera. They're great! Here's a link:
http://porters.com/ and search up part number 150254. These protect my exposed film from a multitude of hazards, not just stray light.
