cysewski
Member
Has anybody tried this to remedy the Bronica RF645 winding problem? I found it on photo.net. I just purchased a RF645 and the winding is stiff, it feels like I will break the camera. Has anybody sent there camera to Tamron? Did it fix the problem? Thanks for any advice.
Steve
Vania Plemiannikov, Aug 14, 2007; 06:54 a.m.
Hi,
Very common problem that Tamron won't acknowledge or solve if you send it back. Hopefully, it's pretty easy to solve, you just need your fingers. (My english might make this difficult to understand, sorry...) Just lossen the little aluminium tongues that hold the rolls tight. They are too tight sometimes. Press on it gently to lossen them and try a roll. If it is still too to tight repeat. Go very gently and progressively cause you don't want the little tongues to go to loose. Use and manually rewind the same roll for that purpose (don't wait to shoot a roll). It might take 4 or 5 tries before you succeed. And please remember to go gently and progressively (too loose might be a bigger problem) it should still be a little tight but not so much as to make pressing the lever as hard as you've experienced. Hope this helps.
Steve
Vania Plemiannikov, Aug 14, 2007; 06:54 a.m.
Hi,
Very common problem that Tamron won't acknowledge or solve if you send it back. Hopefully, it's pretty easy to solve, you just need your fingers. (My english might make this difficult to understand, sorry...) Just lossen the little aluminium tongues that hold the rolls tight. They are too tight sometimes. Press on it gently to lossen them and try a roll. If it is still too to tight repeat. Go very gently and progressively cause you don't want the little tongues to go to loose. Use and manually rewind the same roll for that purpose (don't wait to shoot a roll). It might take 4 or 5 tries before you succeed. And please remember to go gently and progressively (too loose might be a bigger problem) it should still be a little tight but not so much as to make pressing the lever as hard as you've experienced. Hope this helps.
Cron
Well-known
I also have this problem with my RF645, but I live with this until now.
I was told, repair costs will be at around 150-200 Euro.
And no, I won't try this suggestion, but I hope other people will try it and write about positive solution.
regards, Norbert
I was told, repair costs will be at around 150-200 Euro.
And no, I won't try this suggestion, but I hope other people will try it and write about positive solution.
regards, Norbert
Gordon Moat
Established
I recently bought an RF645 that the previous owner had only put a half dozen rolls of film through, in other words near new condition. What I found was that the winding and controls are a bit stiff, almost like the camera needs to be broken in, like an Italian motorcycle. I ran into a winding jamb on the first few rolls, though I kept using the ME (multi-exposure) button to clear it. My old habit of not winding the film until I was ready to shoot the next frame also seemed to be a problem.
So I tried ratcheting advance, instead of single stroke, and that seemed to make it worse. I never forced the advance lever. When I advanced in a single smooth stroke, and not super fast, then everything operated smoothly. This led me to believe it was a film tension problem. You can definitely hear an interlock in the camera, which prevents advancing the film in order to avoid double exposures. When you wind fully and smoothly, you can just barely hear a click that the interlock resets. I tried this many times with a dead roll of 120 film, and finally got the smoothness that I wanted.
Now after more than a month, and numerous rolls of 120 through the camera, it is rare for me to get an X in the viewfinder or a tight advance lever. I think that is down to loading the film snug and secure, and being smooth and deliberate each time I advance to the next frame. This is not a camera for going very fast from one shot to the next, but that is not why I have this camera; if I wanted fast 120 shots, I would be using a Rollei 6008i.
I highly recommend practicing advancing with a dead roll of 120 film. At any point if the film advance jambs, just open the back of the camera, pull out the film and spools, and start over. Keep repeating until you think you are smooth with the camera. Never force the advance lever; if it feels like it is up against a mechanical stop, then don't try to muscle it.
While this might seem like a huge pain in the a$$, this is nothing compared to loading a Linhof Super Rollex 56x72 rollfilm back. I wish I could state that everything about the RF645 is instantly smooth and intuitive, but unfortunately it is a camera which you must operate in a deliberate manner.
Of all the numerous cameras I own, and which I have used, this Bronica RF645 is easily the most unobtrusive camera. My RF645 has become an extension of my vision, never gets in my way, and allows for some ultra slow shutter speed hand held shots. I will likely pick up a 45mm for it, and possibly the 100mm at some point down the road. In fact, I like it so much, I have been trying to figure out how to work it into some paid shoots, since I make my living as a commercial photographer. Originally this was going to be my camera for my personal work.
So I tried ratcheting advance, instead of single stroke, and that seemed to make it worse. I never forced the advance lever. When I advanced in a single smooth stroke, and not super fast, then everything operated smoothly. This led me to believe it was a film tension problem. You can definitely hear an interlock in the camera, which prevents advancing the film in order to avoid double exposures. When you wind fully and smoothly, you can just barely hear a click that the interlock resets. I tried this many times with a dead roll of 120 film, and finally got the smoothness that I wanted.
Now after more than a month, and numerous rolls of 120 through the camera, it is rare for me to get an X in the viewfinder or a tight advance lever. I think that is down to loading the film snug and secure, and being smooth and deliberate each time I advance to the next frame. This is not a camera for going very fast from one shot to the next, but that is not why I have this camera; if I wanted fast 120 shots, I would be using a Rollei 6008i.
I highly recommend practicing advancing with a dead roll of 120 film. At any point if the film advance jambs, just open the back of the camera, pull out the film and spools, and start over. Keep repeating until you think you are smooth with the camera. Never force the advance lever; if it feels like it is up against a mechanical stop, then don't try to muscle it.
While this might seem like a huge pain in the a$$, this is nothing compared to loading a Linhof Super Rollex 56x72 rollfilm back. I wish I could state that everything about the RF645 is instantly smooth and intuitive, but unfortunately it is a camera which you must operate in a deliberate manner.
Of all the numerous cameras I own, and which I have used, this Bronica RF645 is easily the most unobtrusive camera. My RF645 has become an extension of my vision, never gets in my way, and allows for some ultra slow shutter speed hand held shots. I will likely pick up a 45mm for it, and possibly the 100mm at some point down the road. In fact, I like it so much, I have been trying to figure out how to work it into some paid shoots, since I make my living as a commercial photographer. Originally this was going to be my camera for my personal work.
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
I had this problem with my rf645!I've got the repair shop address from tamron and I sent it.After a week I've got it back repaired,with RF/VF cleaned,lubed, and aligned (little vertical RF mis-alignement)and now it's smooth like silk!I've spent 70/80 euro shipping included and I'm very happy with it
but i shot only 120 films....hope it helps
but i shot only 120 films....hope it helpsSDK
Exposing since 1969.
I don't have this problem with mine, but the RF is a bit mis-aligned.
fbf
Well-known
So far i am very disappointed by Tamron service dept. The camera has been there for two weeks and I have to contact the service rep. to find out what's going on. No initiation of contact whatsoever. I haven't even gotten a estimate yet. God knows when I will be getting it back.
Back to the problem, my rf645 also has the tight winding but I dont' particularly mind it. All i need is a general CLA, checkup
Back to the problem, my rf645 also has the tight winding but I dont' particularly mind it. All i need is a general CLA, checkup
Gordon Moat
Established
I have been trying a little experiment recently with empty spools and new rolls of film. The Kodak and Fuji spools are just slightly different. So I have been making sure to use Kodak spools with new Kodak rollfilm, and Fuji spools with new Fuji rollfilm; so far absolutely no winding problems, and the advance is ultra smooth. I don't know how many RF645 owners jump between film brands, but it might be worth a try for some who do that.
fbf
Well-known
I have had bad luck with off brand spools but I replaced it with the fuji one and it is now working fine.
My camera is still in Tamron service. It's been almost 3 weeks. The customer service says they normally ship in two weeks. We shall see.
My camera is still in Tamron service. It's been almost 3 weeks. The customer service says they normally ship in two weeks. We shall see.
Maarteun
Newbie
I have a problem with my RF645 that is not really related to a 'stiff' advance, but after I finish my 16th frame (Yes, it is set to 120) I can't fully wind up the roll. I have to press the shutter about 6-7more times to get the entire roll on the take-up spool. I guess it's not killing me, but shuttering 6 times for no good reason does seem rather wasteful. Any suggestions?
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
maybe you have to reset something...It seems to me an electronic problem...Try to change battery,clean lens (the shutter is inside the lens)contacts...and send for a CLA asap!
Maarteun
Newbie
I think the camera has been set to 220 for years without use. When you set it to 220 and close the back there seems to be a small piece on the back (that moves to the right when you set it from 120 to 220) that pushes another piece on the body inwards. I'm guessing that the spring that is supposed to push the little piece back is too faint to do so, thus leaving it set to 220 at all times.
EDIT: That actually was the problem, took some fiddeling with tweezers, and its fixed now. Guess I'll have to do that each time I set it to 220, and back.
EDIT: That actually was the problem, took some fiddeling with tweezers, and its fixed now. Guess I'll have to do that each time I set it to 220, and back.
Last edited:
Cron
Well-known
charlesfoto
Established
Just an FYI regarding RF645 repairs. I emailed service at Tamron this morning asking about repairs and parts for the RF645, as I've been close to buying one w/ the 65mm lens. Tamron responded that they will do repairs and have parts until 2011. While I suspect that keh and other places could service the camera, it wasn't very encouraging to hear Tamron say they are literally dumping the camera after 2011.
Gordon Moat
Established
Oddly enough, Nikon will not service my FM nor my FE, though they will service my F4S, but at a higher price than 3rd party service. You do know Bronica ended as a going company/brand several years ago?
kuzano
Veteran
My Redundant?? It's been said over and over.
My Redundant?? It's been said over and over.
First, I don't know if this is your problem. I've seen this post too often on the Bronica 645RF.
Commonly, all medium format film cameras that transport film horizontally, wind stiff, jam up and actually stop midroll, when the back door is closed on a loose roll on the takeup end. In fact this is also very coincidental to frame spacing problems, because the film is not moving in the proper relationship to the frame mechanism.
This is a problem that Fuji finally took to addressing in the user manuals for all their rangefinders. Close the door with tension on the take-up lever and a finger holding the feed roll.
This would happen on 35mm as well if the film was not loaded into a container with friction tension. And in fact is does happen when loading a 35mm camera (usually early RF and FSU) is very careless about tension across the film frame.
Since the 645 RF cameras has a short span across the back, it would be easier to overlook this tensioning of the film.
From what I've seen on this post, what I would probably do is use the Fuji spools, and make sure the film is tight going onto the takeup spool.
On my Fujis, it took me 3-4 rolls before I RTFM and saw the problem. I actually did not get through the first few rolls and had to open the back and dig the film out. After becoming aware of this issue, I have NEVER lost another roll of film. Wind-on has been smooth, over at least a dozen Fuji Rangefinders from 645 to 6X9.
Furthermore, I remove the film immediately after rolling the film onto the take-up spool, rather than waiting for a dark place and allowing handling the camera to allow the spool to loosen. Take it out in subdued light and paste the tail down right away... No more light leaks on the last few frames.
Loose film rolls, as in 120, present problems not found in film contained in a canister.
Furthermore the horizontal transport is weaker in this regard. Film inserts that roll vertically in a film holder/back, do not often exhibit this loose capability. The are inherently tight when you put them in the back.
My Redundant?? It's been said over and over.
First, I don't know if this is your problem. I've seen this post too often on the Bronica 645RF.
Commonly, all medium format film cameras that transport film horizontally, wind stiff, jam up and actually stop midroll, when the back door is closed on a loose roll on the takeup end. In fact this is also very coincidental to frame spacing problems, because the film is not moving in the proper relationship to the frame mechanism.
This is a problem that Fuji finally took to addressing in the user manuals for all their rangefinders. Close the door with tension on the take-up lever and a finger holding the feed roll.
This would happen on 35mm as well if the film was not loaded into a container with friction tension. And in fact is does happen when loading a 35mm camera (usually early RF and FSU) is very careless about tension across the film frame.
Since the 645 RF cameras has a short span across the back, it would be easier to overlook this tensioning of the film.
From what I've seen on this post, what I would probably do is use the Fuji spools, and make sure the film is tight going onto the takeup spool.
On my Fujis, it took me 3-4 rolls before I RTFM and saw the problem. I actually did not get through the first few rolls and had to open the back and dig the film out. After becoming aware of this issue, I have NEVER lost another roll of film. Wind-on has been smooth, over at least a dozen Fuji Rangefinders from 645 to 6X9.
Furthermore, I remove the film immediately after rolling the film onto the take-up spool, rather than waiting for a dark place and allowing handling the camera to allow the spool to loosen. Take it out in subdued light and paste the tail down right away... No more light leaks on the last few frames.
Loose film rolls, as in 120, present problems not found in film contained in a canister.
Furthermore the horizontal transport is weaker in this regard. Film inserts that roll vertically in a film holder/back, do not often exhibit this loose capability. The are inherently tight when you put them in the back.
Last edited: