Bryce & Zion NP

Darkhorse

pointed and shot
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Last week was my wife's spring break from her university classes, so we decided to get away from the hubbub of Southern California and take in the wonders of the Colorado Plateau. We had been to Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park before in 2008 but it was quite cold during the Thanksgiving break, and didn't do much hiking. This time we did about 20 miles in hiking overall which left us quite satisfied with this portion of the Plateau... now we look forward to exploring other portions like more of Grand Canyon, Arches, Monument Valley and so on.

To all foreigners (and indeed all Americans), I can't stress enough how wondrous the American West is. I despair that what most tourists come to America and wind up only seeing Vegas or worse, Orlando (no offense to any Floridians, and Vegas can be quite fun); But the National Parks of the Four Corners region is a unique jewel on this planet Earth. If you come to America this is the place you have to see... and gasp at its beauty.

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We drove out to Utah, it takes about 8 hours to get from our place in Orange to Bryce Canyon. Not a bad road trip, and Audiobooks make it go by quick.

I've come here before, and so this would be my second time photographing the place. My first time out I brought a lot of equipment, lots of lenses and filters, and lots of layers of clothing. I quite like my photos of my first trip, particularly because of the fresh snow on the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon. But this time I packed very light and only packed an s100. I just wanted to relax, hike and take snaps. This has been my philosophy of my photography outside of my work now.

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Bryce Canyon's distinct Hoodoos have a lot of personality to them. They're so delicate, intricate, and numerous. You could spend an eternity photographing them - I didn't have that long but still ended up with several hundred shots of them. It was difficult to pare them down.

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Fairlyand Loop Trail is about 8.4 miles, you hike down 1000+ feet, then go up again, then down again, and then finally up again. It's fairly strenuous but very rewarding.

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Strange thing about nature photography is that you ideally would like any sign of humanity taken out, but 1.) Actually having a human in the shot can give you a better sense of scale 2.) Sometimes signs of human activity is unavoidable like the shots above with visible contrails.

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I quite like some of the gnarly trees of the areas, particularly the Bristlecone Pines. They contribute to the alien landscape.

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Inspiration Point is above. A place you could photograph thousands of times for thousands of hours and never do it justice. This is maybe a third of the view from this particular lookout.

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Things change once you get to Zion, the stratigraphy is more pronounced and elaborate.

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The tunnel leading into Zion (westbound HWY 9) is about a mile long, and once you exit the tunnel the landscape hits you with a burst of wonder. Not a lot of scenic turnoffs at this point and minimal places to park so shots like the above were taken out of a moving car. Not a good way to compose a shot - you have to think fast and so the above shot is the exact same composition one I took of the same place years before.

Don't worry, I wasn't the one driving.

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We left Southern California to escape the traffic, only to find it again on the trail to the Emerald Pools in Zion. I'm not talking about cars, Zion has a fantastic shuttle system to rid the park of auto congestion and pollution, but the trail itself was packed with people. Noisiest hike I've ever been on. Ever. There are much scarier hikes in Zion, but due to its popularity, Emerald Pools has had the most casualties in the park.

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My dear wife at the Canyon Overlook.
 
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This is Angel's Landing. Probably the most notorious hike in Zion. It's about a 5 mile hike from the Grotto to the top. Loaded with steep switchbacks, it's not the easiest hike you can embark on, but it's still quite doable. That is until you get to the last half mile. Then there's a series of chains on steep slopes of slippery sandstone that take you to a razor-like ridge with sheer drops surrounding you. There are plenty of warnings but my wife egged me on to take the final leg. I went up the first series of chains and there was a large gap between them and the second series. It was at that point where I froze up, and started hyperventilating. I'm not really all that afraid of heights, but I couldn't complete this hike and had to turn back.

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A Ranger looks at the hikers climbing the final portion of the Angels Landing hike at Scouts Overlook.

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The pic above gives me a little sense of the acrophobia I felt up there.

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A view of the steepness of the hike from the switchbacks.

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Some curious formations in sandstone carved by rushing waters. There are more elaborate formations like this in the park, and in the Colorado Plateau but that's for another adventure.

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Water trickles through porous sandstone at Weeping Rock.

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Mid afternoon is a lousy time for photos, but the fact that you get so many amazing views from many points in the hike is very rewarding and is very much worth all the work involved and then some.

My wife told me that of all the National Parks she's been to, she's enjoyed Zion the best. Not just because of the landscape but also due to the fact that it has a good shuttle system and close-by accommodations with restaurants with good vegetarian selections. In contrast, last year for our Yosemite trip we stayed in Mariposa which is some distance away from the park. We also did a lot more hiking on this expedition, which as I've said was our goal, and above all it was a relaxing adventure… aside from the moments of sheer terror on Angels Landing.
 
Thanks for the great sequence of images, and accompanying narration. The sense of awe and danger is captured very well. I've been meaning to visit Bryce/Zion, and your images are strong incentives to do so soon. Regarding your hike up the 1st stage of Angel's Landing, do you think it would have been possible carrying a tripod and MF camera? Foolhardy perhaps to try?
-bdeyes
 
Thanks for the memories.

Thanks for the memories.

Nice pictures..

My wife and I also did that same trip.. We flew into Las Vegas and rented a car for the trip. We used Zion as our central location and did a one day to Bryce. It really brought back memories. It was much colder when we were there in late September. Where your wife is standing, in the background was a snow cap...

By September there is no shuttle system running and not very many tourist. Our trip to Emerald Falls, I think we only saw maybe 6 or 7 groups of 2-4 people each.

Thanks for the memories..

Gary
 
Thanks for the tour. I may have visited this region 6-8 times, with lots of heavy duty photography, starting at dawn and ending after sunset. At the time, I used a Tiffen Enhancing filter, which gives the sandstone interesting colors. I also used several types of Singh Ray gradated ND filters to be able to control highlights with slow slide film. Cedar Breaks is older than Bryce, and it also has beautiful colors. Another good place to visit is Kodachrome Basin State Park. After visiting Zion and Bryce, I visited the Lower Antelope Canyon. It required ropes to get inside it vertically down.

Memories .......
 
Nice images and narration. I'm actually from SoCal as well (in the IE, about 20 miles miles NE of you), and while I'm not much of a hiker anymore (bad back), I have enjoyed the national parks for as long as I can remember.
 
Nice Images! I was in Zion and Bryce last fall, fantastic!
Loved hiking in Zion, the Narrows and Angels' Landing were spectacular

Here's one on my discoveries from Bryce, I've named it "Snoopy Buddha"
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Thanks for the great sequence of images, and accompanying narration. The sense of awe and danger is captured very well. I've been meaning to visit Bryce/Zion, and your images are strong incentives to do so soon. Regarding your hike up the 1st stage of Angel's Landing, do you think it would have been possible carrying a tripod and MF camera? Foolhardy perhaps to try?
-bdeyes

I don't think it'll be a problem. The hike is only strenuous for the most part due to the uphill walking. The last half mile is where things get really hairy. If you're sure footed enough, and not afraid of heights in the slightest then you could take all the equipment straight to the top. Honestly I saw little kids in flip-flops tackling the last section... not sure if I would let one of my kids do that if I was a parent.
 
Thanks for the tour. I may have visited this region 6-8 times, with lots of heavy duty photography, starting at dawn and ending after sunset. At the time, I used a Tiffen Enhancing filter, which gives the sandstone interesting colors. I also used several types of Singh Ray gradated ND filters to be able to control highlights with slow slide film. Cedar Breaks is older than Bryce, and it also has beautiful colors. Another good pace to isit is Kodachrome Basin State Psrk. After visiting Zion and Bryce, I visited the Lower Antelope Canyon. It required ropes to get iside it vertically down.

Memories .......

I did go to Kodachrome a few years ago, but Antelope Canyon is something I'd really like to see.
 
I was just there last October, and I totally get your philosophy of traveling light and enjoying the place! Being my first time, I didn't pack light but after seeing throngs of people with tripods and dlsr's all lining up to take the same darn photo it gets old really quick! And agreed about the excellent shuttle system - It really can't be understated how nice it is to have the cars out of there.

Springdale is also a great town with amazing views all around - plus there is the Fatali gallery (http://fatali.com/) right by the park entrance for seeing breath-taking prints and prices!
 
I was just there last October, and I totally get your philosophy of traveling light and enjoying the place! Being my first time, I didn't pack light but after seeing throngs of people with tripods and dlsr's all lining up to take the same darn photo it gets old really quick!

Exactly. I could tell many people were taking HDR shots as well. Actually I think I was scoffed at for using my little camera at one overlook. It was strange to see that not many people use compact digital cameras anymore, it's either huge DSLRs or people are using their phones or ipads(!).

I mean, going on a trip to take photos can be really fun, don't get me wrong. And I don't want to discourage people from expressing themselves via photography, it's their right. But there is a certain determination a lot of people have to get their shot that preoccupies or even stresses them out. I've been guilty of this in the past. Finally I just said to myself since I'm at a place to relax with another person first and foremost, photography needs to come in a distant second.

This is not to say I didn't have a little bag of tricks. I did have a mini tripod, a screw on polarizer, used the s100's built-in ND filter, and shot everything in RAW:

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it being spring, I thought there would be more opportunities for water shots like this, but things were just trickling at the time.
 
Bryce Canyon (winter) : Fujichrome 50 + polarizer + gradated ND filters (Canon F1N)

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Lower Antelope Canyon: A Navajo Indian roped me down the slot canyon.

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I trusted Frank to rope me down and not to drop me!

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This was called "Eagle Head" by Frank. He told me that he and his brother discovered the Lower Antelope Canyon, and it was their secret for many years.

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I used 35mm slow slide film with a tripod and cable release.
Here is a photo of the drive between Zion and Bryce:

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This one also was taken on same trip.
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The square and the tiny phone screen I was viewing on threw me off, thought it was medium format for a second.
 
I've always wanted to go back to Zion, Bryce and the slot canyons in Page to shoot it all again in black and white. Someday...
 
What focal length lens do you guys recommend I take?

I'll be there (Arches and Canyonlands) at the end of July (hopefully).

Don
 
Don,

I used 24 and 50 most of the time. Extreme wide angle lenses cover more, but then things look smaller. Take with you the lenses that you enjoy using most.
 
I have been to Zion and Bryce but never to where u are headed. If I were going there
- 21 for crop pano if u don't do stitch pano
- primes 24-35-50-135 or
- if u are ok w/ zooms 24-85 or 24-120 instead

Anything longer than 50 is for isolation or animal shots.

Make sure u carry plenty of water during the summer months, a compass, and/or gps.

Have fun
Gary
 
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