Built in spot meters on SLR's

The Leica R6 & R6.2 have so-called "Selective" (spot) and "Integral" (center-weighted full field) metering options. The metering choice is made with the dial at the base of the shutter speed dial. The three positions are meter off, integral and spot modes.

The Selective mode covers a roughly 7mm field in the center of the viewfinder.

And it's a joy to use... I only ever use spot metering.

Off topic but... Anything else is over rated IMO.
 
Quite. Hence my question.

In this context, "spot" is a meaningless marketing term.

Cheers,

R.

Just because it is not a 1 degree spotmeter doesn't make the term meaningless. It just denotes that a small portion, a "spot" of the visible area, is actually used, rather than a center-weighted average or average of the full matrix. These cameras do actually meter only the indicated center spot, even if it's more than 1 degree, the term has definite meaning.

If we want to discuss meaningless marketing terms, here's one: "Organic".
 
Well, I differed from the rest then. I got the F1N mainly for the spotmeter capabilities. It was what I wanted for careful exposure of low ISO slide film. I have several F1N screens with different metering and grid.

Totally agree with you Raid. The spot meter in my NEW F-1 was one of the main draws for me to that camera. Have a number of different screens for it, but the spot meter one lives in the camera full time.
 
Just because it is not a 1 degree spotmeter doesn't make the term meaningless. It just denotes that a small portion, a "spot" of the visible area, is actually used, rather than a center-weighted average or average of the full matrix. These cameras do actually meter only the indicated center spot, even if it's more than 1 degree, the term has definite meaning.

If we want to discuss meaningless marketing terms, here's one: "Organic".
But at what point does a "spot" cease to be a "spot"? That's why it's meaningless. "Limited area", yes. "Hard edge", yes. But "spot"? No. "Blob", maybe.

Cheers,

R.
 
But at what point does a "spot" cease to be a "spot"? That's why it's meaningless. "Limited area", yes. "Hard edge", yes. But "spot"? No. "Blob", maybe.

Cheers,

R.
Are we playing semantics here? If center weighted is a 24mm area or thereabouts then surely a 6mm area is a spot in comparison. There is a difference. I have tried on my Fuji X-E2 with both, then chimped and there is a diffident difference when shooting a back-lit scene.
 
But at what point does a "spot" cease to be a "spot"? That's why it's meaningless. "Limited area", yes. "Hard edge", yes. But "spot"? No. "Blob", maybe.

Cheers,

R.

A good point, but I don't think the meaning as as hard-nosed as all that. As long as the "Spot" isn't a double-digit percentage of the focusing screen. Yes, if the hard-edged spot gets too big, it's really just an averaging meter, but I don't think 1 degree is the hard limit of what defines a spot. But if we're that picky we're probably carrying around a separate spotmeter anyway and using the zone system.

I'm undecided as to whether I'd buy a Pentax Blobmatic.
 
But at what point does a "spot" cease to be a "spot"? That's why it's meaningless. "Limited area", yes. "Hard edge", yes. But "spot"? No. "Blob", maybe.

Cheers,

R.


I wouldn't worry about the choice of words here. Roger.
Users know what is meant by it.
 
Yashica Electro AX uses spot metering.

I used to sort of want one, but couldn't justify buying one after I got my Fujica ST901. I started SLRs with a Yashica TL Super. Combination of brand loyalty (once had one of their movie cameras) and cost, along with the build in light meter. I think they still used stop down metering didn't they?
 
I used to sort of want one, but couldn't justify buying one after I got my Fujica ST901. I started SLRs with a Yashica TL Super. Combination of brand loyalty (once had one of their movie cameras) and cost, along with the build in light meter. I think they still used stop down metering didn't they?

I had the metering explained to me as "step up" metering once. I think that you compose the picture, and the aperture steps up or down when you advance the film, and returns to full aperture when the shutter is released. So compose, focus, advance, and shoot, or something similarly unwieldy. I think with the AX, Yashica might have been a step away from greatness, and just missed.
 
I don't use spot meter often but i do like the way is implemented in the Minolta 9xi (yes, that one with the horrible ergonomics...). Once you take a reading using the exposure lock button and then recompose, you will notice that an exposure graph will appear on the bottom of the viewfinder and show you the difference in exposure between the initial and the final reading. For example, you want to take a picture of landscape - you meter the ground and lock the exposure. If you meter then the sky, the graph will show, for example +2. It means that between the ground and the sky there is 2 stops difference. It is quite nice feature...
 
A good point, but I don't think the meaning as as hard-nosed as all that. As long as the "Spot" isn't a double-digit percentage of the focusing screen. Yes, if the hard-edged spot gets too big, it's really just an averaging meter, but I don't think 1 degree is the hard limit of what defines a spot. But if we're that picky we're probably carrying around a separate spotmeter anyway and using the zone system.

I'm undecided as to whether I'd buy a Pentax Blobmatic.
It would be hard to resist, though, wouldn't it?

My point is that once you've used a true one-degree or even half-degree spot meter, the so-called spot meter in a camera is shown up for what it is: a (not very) limited area meter. Most people never have used a true spot meter, and of those who have, there are still plenty who harbour fantasies about 18% grey cards. Using a true spot meter really is a somewhat different experience from using five-degree or ten-degree limited area meter.

I'd also suggest that most people who actually understand how to use a true spot meter have very little need of the Zone System. There's a review of the SEI Photometer, the first commercially successful spot meter, at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/sei.html

Cheers,

R
 
It would be hard to resist, though, wouldn't it?

My point is that once you've used a true one-degree or even half-degree spot meter, the so-called spot meter in a camera is shown up for what it is: a (not very) limited area meter. Most people never have used a true spot meter, and of those who have, there are still plenty who harbour fantasies about 18% grey cards. Using a true spot meter really is a somewhat different experience from using five-degree or ten-degree limited area meter.

I'd also suggest that most people who actually understand how to use a true spot meter have very little need of the Zone System. There's a review of the SEI Photometer, the first commercially successful spot meter, at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/sei.html

Cheers,

R
Fascinating instrument Roger. It looks like a superbly made piece of kit. Thanks so much for the link.
Cheers,
Brett
 
My Pentax digal spotmeter has been my trusted eter for over tenty years now. Itvis a true spitmeter. Still, I enjoy uing also the built-in "spot meters".

Notice the quotes, Roger.


Raid

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It would be hard to resist, though, wouldn't it?

My point is that once you've used a true one-degree or even half-degree spot meter, the so-called spot meter in a camera is shown up for what it is: a (not very) limited area meter. Most people never have used a true spot meter, and of those who have, there are still plenty who harbour fantasies about 18% grey cards. Using a true spot meter really is a somewhat different experience from using five-degree or ten-degree limited area meter.

I'd also suggest that most people who actually understand how to use a true spot meter have very little need of the Zone System. There's a review of the SEI Photometer, the first commercially successful spot meter, at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/sei.html

Cheers,

R
 
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