Bulk film loader

btgc

btgc

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Not quite sure if this shoudn't go to Accessories subforum, though this is closest to film. Hope moderators will move it if needed.

So I'm slowly proceeding towards developing BW film on my own. At the same time I realized that loading bulk film would be logical choice to learn exposure, and get lower cost per frame.

I've read Roger and Frances write-up on bulk loading. My main concern is for scratches and light leaks - I'd appreciate your comments if cassette business (obtaining, reusing, fixing up) is big issue for you, bulk loaders.

Generally I like idea that I could use consistent emulsion of same type and speed, Currently I think about some of daylight loaders like Alden (because of availability and lack of dedicated dark place to use loading crank). I wonder if anyone uses Alden and can comment on usability and reliability. Thank you in advance.
 
I have two Alden, easy to use and frankly there's pretty much nothing to break. I ran through two 30ft rolls with no problem. Just do remember to unlock the loader's film door or you will scratch the whole roll to hell.

I use Leica IXMOO cassette, which IMO is the best for bulk loading, it has film door and therefore minimal risk of scratching while loading. It opens while in camera by the M base plate so no scratching inside by advancing either.
 
About choice of loaders, avoid the "tear-drop" shaped devices (eg Watson). These draw out so much film for the tail end attached to the spool. Your last frame- the frame which let the shutter fire before the advance stops and tells you it's time to rewind- will always be exposed. Often the last frame is the most significant or most important. Think Bigfoot or Martians posing and smiling for you and then realise later that you shot them on the last fogged frame.

The AP type loaders are better in this respect. With careful procedure, the film drawn out to be attached to the spool is not long enough to reach the film gate when the roll is in the camera. Even the simple Lloyd loader (no counter though and fixed felt trap) is admirable for its ability to allow short tails for spooling.

Also, make sure that you attach the tails right to the spool. There is a proper method of attaching adhesive tape which will reduce the likelyhood of breakage or detachment.
 
Thank you all! I couldn't imagine "tear drop" shape loaders waste more film.

>The AP type loaders are better in this respect.

huh, what is AP type - square shaped?

> it's faster and easier to learn how to load cassettes with your hands

hummm...how do you control amount of spooled film - by height?
 
The only time I got scratches while bulk loading is when I bought a bulk roll of film without a plastic center hub. After I realized what was happening, I turned it on its side to load, and no more scratches. Most bulk film comes with the plastic hub though.
 
I use the AP Bobinquick Jr after some failed attempts at getting a Watson to work in my favor. The film would keep slipping off the sprockets, so I had a half loaded cassette and nowhere to go...
So far, no issues with the AP (square) loader, I really like it and it is quick (to me)...
I know I got mine from freestyle for like $50, but seems like I found adorama's version for cheaper.
 
Couldn't you avoid the fogged last frame by using the WATSON in the dark, if you have to load it in the dark manually anyway or am I missing something?

I had a WATSON but didn't bother using it, sent it off to another RFF member instead.
 
capitalK said:
Couldn't you avoid the fogged last frame by using the WATSON in the dark, if you have to load it in the dark manually anyway or am I missing something?

I had a WATSON but didn't bother using it, sent it off to another RFF member instead.
Click to expand...


Doing the following in total darkness- pulling the film, taping it properly to the spool, putting the cassette together, and then mounting the whole thing on the winding spindle- may not be a good idea.

The AP Bobbinquick (sometimes found as "Konica" in Asia, or maybe with another name elsewhere) is one of the best loaders. Putting the long roll in is slightly more difficult than the procedure required in Watsons or Lloyds loaders, but easily learned. The light trap automatically opens when the spool chamber is closed and crank is inserted. No scratched film. No levers to forget to switch, unlike the light-trap arrangements in some tear-drop loaders.

Counter is accurate, sets like the frame counters in old Leicas. And there is a footage counter too which gauges how much film has been used.
 
I use both the Watson and Aldon-74 with no problems. As for end of the roll fogging I get 38 shots with about 1 1/2 inches left and no fogged frames.

Of the two my preference is the Watson..
 
Get a Lloyd, with the felt trap, and keep it clean.

Mine is at least 35 years old. I get no noticeable scratches at all.
 
No fogging here?

No fogging here?

colyn said:
I use both the Watson and Aldon-74 with no problems. As for end of the roll fogging I get 38 shots with about 1 1/2 inches left and no fogged frames.

Of the two my preference is the Watson..
Click to expand...

I have two Watson's and one Lloyd. I never could get the hang of how many turns to use on the Lloyd to get a certain number of frames. I often make up short rolls to use for testing or some special project, whereas the Watson's work beautifully. Watch the light trap door (scratches anyone) and keep the spool as close to it as you can work. Only rarely have I lost my last shot.😡

Never seen any Martians, but once there was a family of skunks on the path ahead of me!🙂
 
Loading by hand is easy. I tear off a bunch of pieces of masking tape and stick them lightly against the edge (not the side, but the sharp angle), then in the dark take the roll out of the can and inside bag, remove the little piece of tape holding the film end to the roll, and put the roll on it's side in the can so it's easy to grab but can't roll anywhere.

Have all your cassettes opened up and in a shallow tray. I use an 8x10 print tray. Now holdingthe roll in one hand, thumb and middle finger on both ends of the plastic core, strip off some film. I have long arms. With both arms extended but my wrists bent in that's about 36 exposures. I then drop the end and tear the film with my fingers. This is impossible with some odd-ball films on a mylar base - Kodak calls them "Estar" base - but easy enough with most films.

Tape one end to the spool. Let the edges of the film slide by the fingers and thumb of your right hand while turning the spool with your other while bracing the spool edges with the fingers of the "feed" hand. When the film is all on the spool put it in the cassette with a few inches left sticking out. Trim a leader. It doesn't have to look pretty. Use a Sharpie to mark the film type. I also put a dot on the cassette. Ten dots and chuck the cassette.

Turn your cell phone off while doing this. If somebody calls and the phone lights up? Goodby film.
 
I have a Watson loader, although I haven't done any bulk-loading in something like fifteen years or so. My solution to last-frame fogging was to roll about 2-4 extra frames worth of film. I've always kept close tabs on how many frames I've shot at any any given time; when I hit that magic 36 (or sooner...I'm not afraid to end the roll early if the mood strikes), I would simply rewind, then and there.

Mind you, sometimes there's little virtue in squeezing that last frame or two on factory-loaded rolls, either. I've occasionally had a lab slice into that 37th or 38th frame. That's happened mostly with slide film or neg film that was cut and had contacts of proofs made.


- Barrett
 
I've used two Alden 74 loaders for several years with no problems. I would stay clear of the older ones on eBay though, they are seriously used and mostly rubbish. I managed to get new ones (one from Freestyle) and they've been excellent; easy to use and no fogging.
 
I have two of the Watson (tear drop) loaders. They took some time to figure out exactly how much film to load but after a dozen or so tries I finally nail down a system that makes me pretty happy.

After I attach the film to the canister and position in the loader I turn the crank and listen for 44 clicks. After that I lock it and pull the loaded canister about half an inch (about 3-4 sprocket holes) I cut off for the next load. I give it extra length to makes attaching the next canister easier. No pulling which results in no scratching.

Since the loader exposes the last couple of inches of the film I give it the extra clicks to make up for it. We also need some slack at the leader to load our cameras. I found 44 clicks equal out to roughly 44 frames, the 8 or so are for the film leader and exposed ends.

I've been getting consistent 36 frames every roll without problems.
 
So many choices!

I have seen on Net someone is using old cassettes from local minilab - film is attached to end with strong sticky tape. Each for one use. Can be risky because who knows how owner carried it before dropping off, and you never now how lab handles them after unloading. That person sounded very happy with this route.
 
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