Flyfisher Tom
Well-known
I've finally decided to get into bulk loading. Have my Watson 100 ready with Tri-X.
My questions are:
1) what is your recommendation for the most reliable re-usable cassettes? metal versus plastic? any particular brands?
2) is there such a thing as a permanently re-usable cassette ala the Leica cassettes that I can use with my late model leica M6. I understand that only early model M6 and other older M cameras have the correct baseplate to open and close the Leica cassettes. So any similar options for those with later model M6s?
Any advice would be much appreciated! thanks
My questions are:
1) what is your recommendation for the most reliable re-usable cassettes? metal versus plastic? any particular brands?
2) is there such a thing as a permanently re-usable cassette ala the Leica cassettes that I can use with my late model leica M6. I understand that only early model M6 and other older M cameras have the correct baseplate to open and close the Leica cassettes. So any similar options for those with later model M6s?
Any advice would be much appreciated! thanks
eric
[was]: emaquiling
Good choices! I either go with tri-x or recently, neopan 400Flyfisher Tom said:I've finally decided to get into bulk loading. Have my Watson 100 ready with Tri-X.
Kodak metal. But they don't make 'em anymore.. I just tossed out a bunch called "screw top" that I got from B&H. I thought it would make my life easier. They scracthed film on me. YMMV. But basically, the cheapo KALT one are pretty darn good. If you are using it with a DX body, they sell the DX kind. Some people, go to the lab, and grab some used cassettes and tape the film to the end of the old film. I think, over the years, the best thing to do is get a sh**load of cassettes that way, your chances of reusing them a lot is less.1) what is your recommendation for the most reliable re-usable cassettes? metal versus plastic? any particular brands?
I'm not familiar with any Leica other than I wished I have one. But I had a friend who as a Leica RF shooter and I seem to recall seeing Leica cassettes. I think they are very expensive.2) is there such a thing as a permanently re-usable cassette ala the Leica cassettes that I can use with my late model leica M6. I understand that only early
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
Manolo's suggestion is a good one. I use both the metal and the plastic canisters. The plastic are nice because they have a twist-on locking cap. The generic metal ones aren't too bad. The Kalt metal canisters are very nice. They're black with a yellow data sticker wrapped around them. They're well made, too. The Kodak Snap-On canisters aren't too bad either.

taffer
void
Manolo Gozales said:Hey
Go to your local friendly minilab and ask for some cassettes from films they have processed. They'll have loads of them, and they should have a short length of film sticking out to which you can attach your film with masking tape etc. Use once or twice and then get another batch. A free plentiful supply cannot be beat!
ManGo
This is exactly what I do
Ilford and Agfa used to sell their films in cassettes disigned for non-destructive opening. I just collected a bunch of them as I processed the film myself, and reused those cassettes for bulk loading. Before a reloading session, I use a small hand-vacuum-cleaner to get any debris out of the interior and the felt light trap.
LazyHammock
Well-known
I use the plastic canisters with the screw tops. I've found these easier to handle than the metal snap caps.
S
Skinny McGee
Guest
I am with Lazy Hammock I like the plastic and have had no problems I also have the metal kind and I pretty much only shoot bulk... I just ran out of Tri-x I have to place and order but I bought a roll of 160 portra off ebay for 14.99 that is still in date. so I had to buy another loader...
terrafirmanada
Well-known
I also have begun to go Manolo's orute. I have a number of different metal ones if you care to try a selection. But I like the minilab ones, cause if you drop them they never open up. This has happened to me two times with the reloadable ones. It would be a bummer if they had been exposed. Now I am always a bit nervous when I have reloadable cassets on me.
mongo141
Established
eric said:Good choices! I either go with tri-x or recently, neopan 400
Kodak metal. But they don't make 'em anymore.. I just tossed out a bunch called "screw top" that I got from B&H. I thought it would make my life easier. They scracthed film on me. YMMV. But basically, the cheapo KALT one are pretty darn good. If you are using it with a DX body, they sell the DX kind. Some people, go to the lab, and grab some used cassettes and tape the film to the end of the old film. I think, over the years, the best thing to do is get a sh**load of cassettes that way, your chances of reusing them a lot is less.
I'm not familiar with any Leica other than I wished I have one. But I had a friend who as a Leica RF shooter and I seem to recall seeing Leica cassettes. I think they are very expensive.
www.ritzcam.com US $5 each under Leica screw mount acessories. They claim to have a lot of them. Dave
kiev4a
Well-known
LazyHammock said:I use the plastic canisters with the screw tops. I've found these easier to handle than the metal snap caps.
I tried the plastic screw tops but had problems with the tops coming unscrewed while I was loading or unloading a camera. Swithed to metal. The Kalt are good and I also uses a generic black metal model sold by the local camera store.
I can remember when Kodak film came in reloadable cassettes!!
photodog
Well-known
Be careful if you buy the genuine Leica cassettes, the older ones only work on the screw mount cameras. The newer ones for the M cameras will only work on the M6 if you get an older style baseplate from an M4-2 or M4-P.
terrafirmanada
Well-known
Another benefit from the Pharmacy/ Minilab cassets that I have been taking advantage of is bulk loading color, and then getting it processed by one of the companies that does it dirt cheap online. I get 42-44 frames on each roll, and they process it for about 2 dollars.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I agree that the plastic cassettes with screw tops are a risk. I just had a roll of APX100 have the top come off, and damned if I didn't discover it AFTER I shot the roll! The important shots are on the last several frames, so maybe they'll be OK. Grrr.
Trius
Trius
T
tedwhite
Guest
I buy the metal ones from Freestyle in L.A. Have no idea who makes them. They work fine, but, as I've been bulk loading for thirty years, I've learned a small bit about the process.
No matter how good the cassettes are (and Kalt are quite good, but I can't find them around here) eventually you've got to toss them. The felt lips pick up dust particles that will scratch the emulsion side. So here's what I do. I use them only three times. I have three small plastic containers (with tight lids). I bulk load ten cassettes. As I process each one I toss it into Box One. After I use up the ten and they are all in Box One, I reload them. This time they go into Box Two, etc. It's an infantile system, you're probably thinking. All I can say in my defense is that I've never had a scratched negative.
I forgot to mention that I process all my own film at home. Recently I discovered the usefulness of a negative scanner. The only tray work I do after the negs are dried is to make a contact sheet. That way I can determine which neg(s) to scan and work with.
Ted
No matter how good the cassettes are (and Kalt are quite good, but I can't find them around here) eventually you've got to toss them. The felt lips pick up dust particles that will scratch the emulsion side. So here's what I do. I use them only three times. I have three small plastic containers (with tight lids). I bulk load ten cassettes. As I process each one I toss it into Box One. After I use up the ten and they are all in Box One, I reload them. This time they go into Box Two, etc. It's an infantile system, you're probably thinking. All I can say in my defense is that I've never had a scratched negative.
I forgot to mention that I process all my own film at home. Recently I discovered the usefulness of a negative scanner. The only tray work I do after the negs are dried is to make a contact sheet. That way I can determine which neg(s) to scan and work with.
Ted
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Ditto what tedwhite said. And Freestyle has cassettes with DX coding on them which makes them usable in modern cameras without too much fussing. I tend to shoot only 400 ASA film and so I bought a box of these and have been a happy camper. Two words of warning - dust/grit in the felt lightraps on the cassettes WILL eventually give you a scratch that runs the length of your film. And if you drop a cassette (of either plastic or metal construction) the right way, the cassette WILL pop open. The only way to avoid these fates is to use sealed, pre-packaged factory loaded cassettes. When I carry my bulk loaded cassettes, I always keep them in the plastic film canesters as extra protection. I have several 100' rolls of Neopan and Delta 400 sitting in the freezer downstairs. Now if I could just complete my film-drying cabinet project . . .
Ben
Ben
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
My routine for reusing bulk cassettes has been to always clean the felt after each use. I use a piece of masking tape, pressed to the felt, to clean off dust and grit. I use a new piece of tape for each cassette. After I developed this routine, I had few, if any, problems with scratches.
Trius
Trius
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.