Mark C
Well-known
I don't think I'll be bothering with bulk loading anymore. I have re-loadable cassettes and the last 3 rolls I've developed have had scratches on them (in different places so I ruled out the bulk loader itself). I've tried reusing old cassettes and that worked just as well and tbh gave me more peace of mind that they wouldn't pop open (like Peter above).
I also found that the edges of the first five frames of every bulk loaded film are fogged (not into the image area though). I can't work out how that might be happening though. I bought my re-loadable cassettes from eBay.
I have some cassettes I've been using for over 15 years without issue. I always store them in plastic film containers, so unless you camera is really dirty, there is no reason for them to get grit in them.
I use Lloyd's loaders to minimize the lost frames at the end. Fogged frames/edges at the beginning must be from bad cassettes. It sounds like your Ebay cassettes may be the real issue.
The old Ilford cassettes were very nice; I've still got a half dozen of those in use. I always found Kodak Snap-Caps were the least secure from popping open, but otherwise very nice. Some people use a small piece of tape to secure the cassette end; I've seen a few variations on the theme. Good plastic containers will keep the loaded cassettes from popping open even if dropped, at least while in the container.
grouchos_tash
Well-known
I have some cassettes I've been using for over 15 years without issue. I always store them in plastic film containers, so unless you camera is really dirty, there is no reason for them to get grit in them.
I use Lloyd's loaders to minimize the lost frames at the end. Fogged frames/edges at the beginning must be from bad cassettes. It sounds like your Ebay cassettes may be the real issue.
The old Ilford cassettes were very nice; I've still got a half dozen of those in use. I always found Kodak Snap-Caps were the least secure from popping open, but otherwise very nice. Some people use a small piece of tape to secure the cassette end; I've seen a few variations on the theme. Good plastic containers will keep the loaded cassettes from popping open even if dropped while in the container.
Thanks for the suggestions mate
traveler_101
American abroad
This is a very useful thread. Any observations on types of tape to use?
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use the blue 3M painters tape, 1" width. Wrap around using the 1" width. In other words turn the tape sideways to wrap.
Home Depot carries it.
Home Depot carries it.
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
I just use 3/4 inch tan masking tape. I also prefer "snap caps" to reloading sealed caps. The sealed caps are more secure when dropped. The snap caps are more convenient to unload. Every pass by the felt light trap on those canisters is another chance at a scratch. I prefer to pop the snap caps apart when loading onto a developing reel. Also no confusion about color vs. bw film when processing. But really, if you have a system that works for you, Great!
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
i always use my old canisters for bulk, been saving them for years, so I have a good supply ^^
The reusable ones are not very good, since they accumulate dirt, which will scratch your film after a while.
I have two sets of 10 metal re-usable. Since 2012 I advanced about five thousands frames through them.
No issues with scratches. All of my 20 re-usable are old stock Kodak Rochester made ones.
Where are you getting dirt from, BTW? Where is no dirt in cameras, bulk films I'm using.
znapper
Well-known
I have two sets of 10 metal re-usable. Since 2012 I advanced about five thousands frames through them.
No issues with scratches. All of my 20 re-usable are old stock Kodak Rochester made ones.
Where are you getting dirt from, BTW? Where is no dirt in cameras, bulk films I'm using.
5000 frames?? Are you scanning your photos? With what?
Do you clean the canisters regularly?
I used the plastic screw-top types from B&H for a while, after the 4th roll i got long scratches across the whole roll.
Nothing is completely clean, and even a little speck of crap can do a lot of damage.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
5000 frames?? Are you scanning your photos? With what?
Do you clean the canisters regularly?
I used the plastic screw-top types from B&H for a while, after the 4th roll i got long scratches across the whole roll.
Nothing is completely clean, and even a little speck of crap can do a lot of damage.
I agree on little speck thing!
5000/36=139 rolls in five years. It is only 30 rolls per year. Strange, I must have done more
I haven't cleaned canisters at all.
I purchased once plastic one it broke at first attend to load it!.
I was getting scratches which were visible on scans. It was from re-loadable film tanks plastic edges, I teared off felt from single use cassette and glued it on tanks edges.
underlord
Well-known
Been re-using film cassettes for a while without any issues. I use Scotch Magic/Invisible tape and it works a treat. I have suffered with the last frame problem though.
PRJ
Another Day in Paradise
I use regular Scotch branded transparent tape and left over cassettes from mini labs back when there were mini labs. Never had a problem. Make sure you wrap the tape all the way around and back on itself. I also tape over the DX code and just set the film speed in the camera. I always thought reloadable cassettes were a waste of time.
romosoho
Newbie
I use both reusable and the discarded used canisters and they both work! who woulda thunk it?
When I use the reusable ones I slap a piece of masking tape on it, tear it away, and figure that's pretty good for dust.
There isn't any reason as far as the used canisters that would cause you to lose the last frame. It's loading in the bulk loader that exposes the film. I wind to roughly 30 frames and just keep an eye on the counter.
When I use the reusable ones I slap a piece of masking tape on it, tear it away, and figure that's pretty good for dust.
There isn't any reason as far as the used canisters that would cause you to lose the last frame. It's loading in the bulk loader that exposes the film. I wind to roughly 30 frames and just keep an eye on the counter.
traveler_101
American abroad
I use both reusable and the discarded used canisters and they both work! who woulda thunk it?
When I use the reusable ones I slap a piece of masking tape on it, tear it away, and figure that's pretty good for dust.
There isn't any reason as far as the used canisters that would cause you to lose the last frame. It's loading in the bulk loader that exposes the film. I wind to roughly 30 frames and just keep an eye on the counter.
Thanks for the info. I think that 30 fames on a roll is a good idea. I am not so concerned about losing one frame at the end; bulk loading is much cheaper overall.
I typically loaded to 30 frames, also, a good idea. 
jim0266
Established
This is a very useful thread. Any observations on types of tape to use?
Scotch Magic Tape is fine. Get the sticky tape to be safe, not the weak stuff mean to peel off without damaging items.
Bill Clark
Veteran
36 exposure roll, developed, cut into strips of 6 negs will fit on one 8 x 10 sheet(6 strips 6 negs each strip) for contact print.
I also do basically the same as above. I usually cut a strip of tape for each side of the film, partly for strength, partly to ensure the film feeds through the slot without catching, but folding one piece over the back is probably easier.Back when I shot B&W bulk film I used to go to 1 hour labs and get the canisters they were throwing away. I would wrap the tape under the film. I used them once then pitched them. Never had one detach.
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I haven't had any issues I can recall not getting all the final frame on film. But I will trim the stub back to no more than about a centimetre and draw the bare minimum from the bulk loader to join to it. Yes, it's a bit fiddly but can be done. Having a longer stub certainly is easier.
I have always just used ordinary Scotch tape as above, no problems with it coming off.
I was put off re-usable cassettes when I processed film for another person that had issues with light leaks. Spent pre-loaded cassettes from a local lab are free, well light proofed and have only seen a single film through them. So the strips will normally be clean and good to go.
Of course those of us who shoot some pre-loaded black and white can also simply save their spent cassettes after developing their films. Since you've already paid for the container you may as well get another use out of it...
sanmich
Veteran
My issue with reloading is that you loose the last frame. I don't care not using all the potential film, but not knowing which frame is the last one, and loosing it is a bummer.
When I try to save it by loading in the dark, I have issues keeping the film perfectly in line and with doing a clean taping job.
When I try to save it by loading in the dark, I have issues keeping the film perfectly in line and with doing a clean taping job.
traveler_101
American abroad
My issue with reloading is that you loose the last frame. I don't care not using all the potential film, but not knowing which frame is the last one, and loosing it is a bummer.
When I try to save it by loading in the dark, I have issues keeping the film perfectly in line and with doing a clean taping job.
i.e. you load the reusable cartridges in the dark?
brbo
Well-known
i.e. you load the reusable cartridges in the dark?
Well, is there an easier way to save the last frame?
I just loaded reusable cartridges with Rollei Retro 400S in my dark bag. I can do it in the bag with reloadables, but not with discarded canisters.
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