BURNING FILM! The Nikon vs, Canon Motor Drive Wars, Part 2

The Nikon F3H: The fastest analog Nikon

In 1980 Nikon brought forth the Nikon MD-4 Motor in conjunction with the release of the new Nikon F3. It has an integrated battery pack and grip for 8 AA batteries or two MN-2 batteries, and with fresh batteries it can achieve 6 fps, ringing through a 36-exposure roll in just 6 sec. Finally, in 1996 Nikon finally rose to the challenge, offering a High Speed Motor Drive for the Nikon F3H variant which can achieve a top speed of 13.5 fps using a Nicad battery pack! The Nikon F3 High Speed (sporting an F3H logo) was the last of the High Speed Nikons. The F3H was not a regular production camera (only 300 units were planned), it was never officially exported, and was intended for credentialed professional Japanese photographers covering the Nagano Olympics. Like its archrival, the 10 fps Canon EOS-1N RS, it has a fixed pellicle mirror, and like the standard Nikon F3, its MD4H motor is detachable but will not fit the F3. The MD4H motor works with standard 36-exposure cartridges only, so you’re out of film in 3 sec! The image of photographers having to change film at such a clip stands in sharp contrast to the those easily achieving 20 fps and 30 fps with today’s top digital mirrorless marvels who can record thousands of images at furious framing rates without so much as changing a memory card! If you hanker for a Nikon F3H of your very own, they’re available but pricey. The handful of units currently listed on the leading online auction sites will set you back from $5,500 to $8,000 without lens!

Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive .jpg
Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive has an integrated battery pack and grip for 8 AA batteries or two MN-2 batteries, and can achieve a 6 fps framing rate.

Nikon F3H.jpeg
The Nikon F3 High Speed (here's sporting an F3H logo) was the last of the High Speed Nikons. It could achieve 13.5 fps!

Other Nikon motors include the Nikon MD-11 made for the Nikon FM/FE range. With fresh batteries it can achieve 3.5 fps, and it provides a remote- control connector on the front, and a red power on lamp on the back. The similar spec Nikon MD-12 motor fits the Nikon FM, FE, FM2, FM2/T, FE2, FM3a and FA. The MD-14 for the Nikon FG, FG-20, and Nikon EM looks like the MD-11 and MD-12, and shoots at 2 fps on low, and 3.3 fps on the high setting. The Nikon Motor Drive MD-15 for the Nikon FA provides a top framing rate of 3.2 fpsat shutter speeds of 1/125 sec and faster. When you attach the MD15 to the FA, the camera body's batteries are automatically turned off and MD-15'stake over the power supply for the camera. The shutter release button on the motor drive acts and behaves the same way as the camera's release; when slightly depressed it will automatically activate the meter,thenturn off after 16 sec of inactivity.

Nikon MD-12 Motor Drive is 99 % identical to the MD-11 but adds a built-in circuit to cut the ...jpg
Nikon Motor MD-12, is similar to MD-11, and it fits the Nikon FM, FE, FM2, FM2/T, FE2, FM3a and FA, \making it a good choice for Nikon fans,

The Nikon F4 introduced in 1988 was a top pro autofocus SLR and the first of its kind with a built-in motor. In addition to many innovative features such as AF tracking, Matrix Metering, and a vertical metal blade shutter with a balancer to minimize noise and camera shake, its motor (which required one if 3 bottom mounted battery packs to operate) provided a top framing speed of 5.7 fps (with MB-21 or MB-23 battery pack). A large, heavy, complex camera with over 1700 parts, it nevertheless established a reputation for outstanding durability.

Nikon F4 with a Battery Pack MB-21 (F4S).jpg
Nikon F4, the first Nikon with a built-in motor, provided a top framing rate of 5.7 fps (in F4S configuration) with MB-21 or MB-23 battery pack.

The Canon EOS-1 series: The final salvo in the Motor Drive Wars

Canon introduced the EOS-1 series of advanced professional EF-mount autofocus SLRs with built-in motors beginning in 1989, and it culminated in the EOS-1N RS in 1995 and the EOS-1V in 2000. All but the EOS-1N RS use conventional moving mirrors, The original EOS-1 of 1989 achieves a framing rate of 2.5 fps (the manual says 3 fps) with the standard built-in motor, and 5.5 fps with the Motor Booster. The EOS-1N shoots at 3fps and 6 fps without and with the booster respectively, and the EOS-1V gets up to 9fps with the Motor Booster, very impressive for an SLR with a conventional flipping mirror. The fastest firing EOS-1 was the EOS-1N RS, basically a fixed pellicle mirror version of the EOS-1N, that employs Canon’s state-of-the-art second-generation pellicle mirror and achieves a maximum framing rate of 10 fps.

Canin EOS-1N RS with 50mm f:1.4 Canon EF lens.jpg
Canon EOS-1N RS with second generation pellicle mirror achieves 10 fps, and is available used at surprisingly low prices.

The Canon EOS-1N RS has a fixed, hard-coated, semi-transparent pellicle mirror, and a vertical travel focal plane shutter with carbon and metal first and second curtains that are independently controlledand complete the shutter release sequence in 0.006 sec! All shutter speeds are electronically controlled, and the RS can attain 10 fps in CH mode, 3 fps in CL mode. In the One-Shot and manual modes, the continuous shooting speeds are 6 fps and 3 fps respectively. All other specs are identical to the EOS-1N’s. The camera is powered by eight 1.5-volt alkaline or lithium AA calls or Ni-CD Pack E-1, and the camera features automatic rewind at the end if the roll with a user selectable midroll rewind option. Perhaps the nicest thing about this outstanding landmark camera is that it’s readily available used at reasonable cost. A clean functional Canon EOS-1N RS can be yours for around $200 to $350 on the leading online auction sites and you can occasionally snag a nice one for less than that. These very low prices for the popular, easily found EOS-1N RS make it the “bestest for the moistest” HIGH SPEED 35mm camera ever produced.

Canon EOS-1V of 2000.jpg
Canon EOS-1V released in 2000 was the last of the EOS-1 series and can get top to 9 fps with Booster Motor despite its flipping mirror.

But wait, There’s MORE! The fabled “Nikon-1N RS!” The thin bodied EOS film cameras are easily improved by mounting Nikon Nikkor lenses, using a quality Nikkor to EOS lens adapter such as the one produced by Rayqual in Japan. Though not well known outside Japan, Rayqual is known in Japan as the best small independent Japanese lens adapter manufacturer. With this adapter you get infinity focus and aperture priority AE operation on the Canon EOS-1N RS. OK, you don’t get auto diaphragm operation, but that’s a small price to pay for using Nikkor on the best bang for the buck high speed film camera ever made.

If you want a more compact motorized top-tier Canon and will settle for a manual focus (FD mount) model mere 4.5 fps burst rate, consider the highly esteemed Canon T90 that debuted in 1986. It’s widely available used at prices around $100-$150.

As the Rolling Stones said (in Mother’s Little Helper), “Things are different today…” and the fierce Motor Drive Wars between Nikon and Canon seem like a quaint relic of the past. Two current top competitors from Nikon and Canon, the Nikon Z9 and the Canon EOS R3, can both achieve framing rates of 20 and 30 fps without breaking a sweat, and the Z9 can capture 11 MP images at 120 fps! That’s because they don’t have to drag film through the camera, so the only limiting factors are the capture time and refresh rate of the sensor and the algorithms built into that little bit of magic known as the Image Processor.

The physical challenges and monumental inconveniencefaced by a pro shooting sports or high-speed action back in the ’90s were daunting, not to mention the cost of film and processing (equivalent to thousands of dollars today). For those with inquiring minds who must know, imagine shooting two weeks at an Olympics using Nikon or Canon High Speed cameras. How many rolls of film and shots would you likely have shot over those two weeks? Now comes the hard part. Do the math. Calculate the cost of film and processing at those historic Olympics vs. the cost of same amount of film and processing in 2023 dollars--WOE to your film budget!

This is truly the golden age of the continuous burst. Indeed, any pro photographer working today who experienced the transition probably thinks they’ve died and gone to heaven—as I did when I made the transition from shooting weddings with a Crown Graphic 4x5 and switched to a Rolleiflex back in the ‘60s. Like many of the great transitions in photography the one from film to digital occurred with lighting speed leaving many with high-end equipment that was obsolete, not to mention a knowledge base sorely in need a major refresh. Still, shooting with “obsolete” motor drive cameras can be a lot of fun, but you’d better get on the stick quickly before soaring film prices dampen your enthusiasm.
 
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I was completely underwhelmed by using the EOS-1n RS.

The RS mode is a kind of camera setting, it does not allow much customisation apart from changing the motor-drive speed and a few custom functions. When the camera is set to RS mode, the following steps take place:
  1. When pressing the shutter button half way, the camera will focus and close down the aperture
  2. The shutter will get into a “ready position” (makes a distinctive sound)
  3. The secondary mirror will fold back
  4. pressing the shutter button any further, a picture will be taken.
Now, although these four steps appear so well defined on paper, in practise they aren't; everything happens so quickly, step 2 will make the shutter produce a sound very similar to the sound of the shutter being activated. At times I had to look at the frame counter to see if it took a picture or not. Eventually I ended up switching to A and shoot as normal.

And the biggest disappointment (other than the dark viewfinder)? The EOS5 is *much much more* quiet camera.

IMG_20230817_201454_(450_x_800_pixel).jpg
 
I was given a Nikon FE with a very nice Tamron zoom lens...(my first Nikon).
After a bit I found a used MD-12 at a camera shop...we couldn't get it to fire so I offered them about half of what they were asking and I would settle that it would just make a nice grip.
Getting back to my hotel room (did a ton of traveling back then) I tried to figure out why it wouldn't fire...turns out it half cycled and jammed...by shorting out two of the four contacts I was able to get it back in sync...been working fine ever since.
I currently own 3 FEs and 2 FMs and they either have an MD-11 or MD-12.
Also in the closet are two F4's...one the F4s, the other an F4e w/MF-23...
 
I was completely underwhelmed by using the EOS-1n RS.

The RS mode is a kind of camera setting, it does not allow much customisation apart from changing the motor-drive speed and a few custom functions. When the camera is set to RS mode, the following steps take place:
  1. When pressing the shutter button half way, the camera will focus and close down the aperture
  2. The shutter will get into a “ready position” (makes a distinctive sound)
  3. The secondary mirror will fold back
  4. pressing the shutter button any further, a picture will be taken.
Now, although these four steps appear so well defined on paper, in practise they aren't; everything happens so quickly, step 2 will make the shutter produce a sound very similar to the sound of the shutter being activated. At times I had to look at the frame counter to see if it took a picture or not. Eventually I ended up switching to A and shoot as normal.

And the biggest disappointment (other than the dark viewfinder)? The EOS5 is *much much more* quiet camera.

View attachment 4825481
I agree that the EOS-1N RS is pretty noisy, especially when shooting high sped bursts in RS mode but once I got used to it, I could differentiate between “shutter ready” and “shutter fires” sounds. Understandably the viewfinder isn’t as bright as the one in the EOS-1V, but it’s not bad and the AF system is excellent for an SLR of its era.
I was completely underwhelmed by using the EOS-1n RS.

The RS mode is a kind of camera setting, it does not allow much customisation apart from changing the motor-drive speed and a few custom functions. When the camera is set to RS mode, the following steps take place:
  1. When pressing the shutter button half way, the camera will focus and close down the aperture
  2. The shutter will get into a “ready position” (makes a distinctive sound)
  3. The secondary mirror will fold back
  4. pressing the shutter button any further, a picture will be taken.
Now, although these four steps appear so well defined on paper, in practise they aren't; everything happens so quickly, step 2 will make the shutter produce a sound very similar to the sound of the shutter being activated. At times I had to look at the frame counter to see if it took a picture or not. Eventually I ended up switching to A and shoot as normal.

And the biggest disappointment (other than the dark viewfinder)? The EOS5 is *much much more* quiet camera.

View attachment 4825481
Another fascinating read. Thanks for posting.

Canon did experiment with adding a motor drive for the Canon P. This pic is from the Canon Historical Society page on Facebook. Nothing is known about this motorized Canon P. It was a prototype on an auction site in Japan.

View attachment 4825309

Jim B.

Hi Jason, sorry - my comment was for Dogman and his story about using his F2 and motor drive for 13 years on assignment.

But since I have all three volumes of your Camera Collecting books, I eagerly await the fourth. ;)

(you wouldn't believe how hard it was to find the second one - took me about 10 years)
View attachment 4825436

I was completely underwhelmed by using the EOS-1n RS.

The RS mode is a kind of camera setting, it does not allow much customisation apart from changing the motor-drive speed and a few custom functions. When the camera is set to RS mode, the following steps take place:
  1. When pressing the shutter button half way, the camera will focus and close down the aperture
  2. The shutter will get into a “ready position” (makes a distinctive sound)
  3. The secondary mirror will fold back
  4. pressing the shutter button any further, a picture will be taken.
Now, although these four steps appear so well defined on paper, in practise they aren't; everything happens so quickly, step 2 will make the shutter produce a sound very similar to the sound of the shutter being activated. At times I had to look at the frame counter to see if it took a picture or not. Eventually I ended up switching to A and shoot as normal.

And the biggest disappointment (other than the dark viewfinder)? The EOS5 is *much much more* quiet camera.

View attachment 4825481
 
Back in the days I sold my 1N RS in favor of the 1V with motor drive (there was a small time gap when the 1V was really cheap). I had no problems operating the RS and sold it only because it was big, heavy and the motor drive was permanently attached to it. The „dark“ viewfinder was no concern but getting the pellicile mirror dirty was (later I got myself a RT for 10 Euros, it is small, light and quiet).
 
Don't forget the Canon "Tank" or T90. Essentially an FD mount prototype for the EOS line, it was very similar to a manual focus only Nikon F4. Fewer buttons and knobs but the ethos is similar. I really loved the T90 I had - with a 50/1.4 it was a killer kit and the multiple spot meter was wonderful.

I did really like the EOS 5 aka A2E here in the US before I left Canon behind and moved to Nikon. I ended up giving all my Canon lenses to a teenager who was learning photography and she especially enjoyed the wide angle zoom I'd spent way too much on :) To me it was just another meh zoom but hey, she loved it and that actually made the money suddenly far more worth it.

Really, how much I liked the T90 is probably why the F4 fits my tastes so well now. Their positives are quite congruent ;)
 
Don't forget the Canon "Tank" or T90. Essentially an FD mount prototype for the EOS line, it was very similar to a manual focus only Nikon F4. Fewer buttons and knobs but the ethos is similar. I really loved the T90 I had - with a 50/1.4 it was a killer kit and the multiple spot meter was wonderful.

I did really like the EOS 5 aka A2E here in the US before I left Canon behind and moved to Nikon. I ended up giving all my Canon lenses to a teenager who was learning photography and she especially enjoyed the wide angle zoom I'd spent way too much on :) To me it was just another meh zoom but hey, she loved it and that actually made the money suddenly far more worth it.

Really, how much I liked the T90 is probably why the F4 fits my tastes so well now. Their positives are quite congruent ;)
Indeed, I still have the EOS-5 and the F4 and they are great cameras - especially with b&w film. I think both Nikon and Canon got it right with these cameras. The shutter issues of the T90 have put me off from buying it (I don't have any FD lenses anyway - that would be extra money on top) but i use the multi-spot of the OM4 and love it.
 
Back in the days I sold my 1N RS in favor of the 1V with motor drive (there was a small time gap when the 1V was really cheap). I had no problems operating the RS and sold it only because it was big, heavy and the motor drive was permanently attached to it. The „dark“ viewfinder was no concern but getting the pellicile mirror dirty was (later I got myself a RT for 10 Euros, it is small, light and quiet).
What do you think of the RS vs RT? I read somewhere people preferring the RT in terms of more quiet shutter.
 
What do you think of the RS vs RT? I read somewhere people preferring the RT in terms of more quiet shutter.
Oh absolutely. The RT is really quiet, especially when you set a custom function to not transport the film until you depress the shutter button after you’ve taken the shot.
 
The Canon A2E was my first auto focus SLR. Lots to like on that camera with one fault. I had two of them and the command dial broke on both. Had them repaired and the cameras just kept on working great. I liked the eye control focus but eventually just used the center focus sensor. Focus and recompose. It's still my preferred method. Bought a used EOS 1n later and really liked it despite it being heavy for its size. It might have been plastic on the outside but it was an all metal tank underneath. The built-in motors on those cameras were fast enough for me. I wasn't shooting sports or any type of action photos by then so I didn't burn a lot of film at high speed.
 
Don't forget the Canon "Tank" or T90. Essentially an FD mount prototype for the EOS line, it was very similar to a manual focus only Nikon F4. Fewer buttons and knobs but the ethos is similar. I really loved the T90 I had - with a 50/1.4 it was a killer kit and the multiple spot meter was wonderful.

I did really like the EOS 5 aka A2E here in the US before I left Canon behind and moved to Nikon. I ended up giving all my Canon lenses to a teenager who was learning photography and she especially enjoyed the wide angle zoom I'd spent way too much on :) To me it was just another meh zoom but hey, she loved it and that actually made the money suddenly far more worth it.

Really, how much I liked the T90 is probably why the F4 fits my tastes so well now. Their positives are quite congruent ;)
I don't dignify the T90 as a tank. The F1 is a tank. The F1 is less likely to give problems, and won't give error messages.
 
Just noticed that a camera shop in Victoria BC has a motor drive Nikon and 250 shot back if anyone has a hankering.

 
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