Zack
Screw RC
What are things to look for when buying a CL used, more in particular if the meter is inoperative, would this mean something is seriously wrong or it just needs a new battery?
Buying a CL used.
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ampguy
Veteran
fixing the meter will likely cost more than you paid for the cl body, unless of course it is just a dead battery.
ask about clean viewfinder, tightness of the shutter speed dial, if the shutter speeds have ever been checked, make sure the shutter itself is not damaged, ask about the lens mount, lens release, tripod bush condition.
ask about clean viewfinder, tightness of the shutter speed dial, if the shutter speeds have ever been checked, make sure the shutter itself is not damaged, ask about the lens mount, lens release, tripod bush condition.
clarence
ダメ
Are you looking at what I'm looking at?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....30006786437&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
It probably means the meter will not function, even with a fresh battery. I'd go for this, since I use a handheld meter and monochrome film, but I've just bought a new camera.
Clarence
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....30006786437&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
It probably means the meter will not function, even with a fresh battery. I'd go for this, since I use a handheld meter and monochrome film, but I've just bought a new camera.
Clarence
Zack
Screw RC
Theres several on the bay, and alot of them say meter is not functioning, i would hope its just a battery but who knows. The main selling point of the CL for me is its size and the built in meter. I wouldnt want to have to carry around my spotmeter because its almost as big as the camera.
Zack
Screw RC
http://cgi.ebay.com/Leica-CL-kit-wi...3QQihZ003QQcategoryZ30030QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
this was actually the one i have my eye on, Work is really screwing me, i sit here all day making money and all i do is look for ways to spend it.
this was actually the one i have my eye on, Work is really screwing me, i sit here all day making money and all i do is look for ways to spend it.
W
wlewisiii
Guest
Meters are the weak spot of the design. Mine is off (even with a new wein cell it's off in lala land) and probably I should spend the money to have DAG adjust it for silver oxide cells. But really, I don't miss the meter. I carry a handheld meter (Sekonic L-28C) and, even then, simply sunny 16 it most of the time.
It's a nice compact package even without the meter. If you get one that's good or fixable, great but don't sweat it if you don't.
William
It's a nice compact package even without the meter. If you get one that's good or fixable, great but don't sweat it if you don't.
William
kvanderlaag
my autofocus is broken.
I really, really like the meter on my CL. It's one of the most convenient things I've ever used. The whole camera is laid out intuitively with the shutter speed dial and the aperture ring on the lens where they are, to make that meter a breeze to use. Never have to take your eye off the finder.
I'd try to find one with a working meter. I got lucky in mine. Most CL meters are either inoperative, or way off, and that costs a boatload to fix, from what I hear.
However, past that, check shutter speeds, the shutter itself, and that the RF mirror hasn't desilvered.
I have problems with mine in that the vert alignment of the RF keeps slipping way off, and I can't seem to adjust it without hitting the horizontal. The little screw-nut doohickey that it adjusts via seems to be fused together. I don't like that very much.
There might be some lock-tight (or nail polish) in this camera's future.
But it works. All of it. And it's one of my favorite little cameras. Sort of negates the need for a small fixed-lens.
I'd try to find one with a working meter. I got lucky in mine. Most CL meters are either inoperative, or way off, and that costs a boatload to fix, from what I hear.
However, past that, check shutter speeds, the shutter itself, and that the RF mirror hasn't desilvered.
I have problems with mine in that the vert alignment of the RF keeps slipping way off, and I can't seem to adjust it without hitting the horizontal. The little screw-nut doohickey that it adjusts via seems to be fused together. I don't like that very much.
There might be some lock-tight (or nail polish) in this camera's future.
But it works. All of it. And it's one of my favorite little cameras. Sort of negates the need for a small fixed-lens.
Zack
Screw RC
About how much would it be to get the meter fixed? And which lenses are not compatable with them? Also for those that have them do you use the 40mm, do you find it hindering? (not wide enough to be 35, to wide to be 50)
W
wlewisiii
Guest
From talking to DAG, if it needs a new cell & he's got one $100+ If it's just to be adjusted, then it's $50 IIRC.
I am one of those who doesn't like the 40. It's a very very good lens but the focal length really isn't fish or fowl for me. I've got a collapsible 50/2 Summicron & a prewar uncoated 90/4 Elmar that I use on it. I also have a Canon 135/3.5 that I use with it with an external finder. Once I get the pennies ahead of my bills, I intend to get a Canon/Serenar 28/3.5 for the wide end. It's my understanding that the whole area of the finder approximates the 28 FOV well enough.
William
I am one of those who doesn't like the 40. It's a very very good lens but the focal length really isn't fish or fowl for me. I've got a collapsible 50/2 Summicron & a prewar uncoated 90/4 Elmar that I use on it. I also have a Canon 135/3.5 that I use with it with an external finder. Once I get the pennies ahead of my bills, I intend to get a Canon/Serenar 28/3.5 for the wide end. It's my understanding that the whole area of the finder approximates the 28 FOV well enough.
William
Zack
Screw RC
I read that the entire finder is closer to the 35 FOV. but im not sure where. What does IIRC mean ?
kvanderlaag
my autofocus is broken.
I personally find the 40 to be nice. Basically, if you don't use collapsible 50s, or lenses with ridiculous rear elements (read: The Jupiter-12) you should be in fine shape with the CL.
W
wlewisiii
Guest
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
I doubt that it would be only 35 fov because there is just too much space outside of the 40 lines and 5mm isn't that big a difference.
William
I doubt that it would be only 35 fov because there is just too much space outside of the 40 lines and 5mm isn't that big a difference.
William
Zack
Screw RC
Im really hoping the CL can be a somewhat cheaper alternative to cure my leica lust. Hopefully i can find a reasonably good one sometime in the near future on the bay, or if anyone knows about one, on p.net or something, give me a heads up.
vrgard
Well-known
Just a WAG on my part, but I would bet the entire viewfinder is closer to a 28 than a 35. As William points out, there's still a fair bit of room outside the 40mm framelines. Also, while this may not be strictly relevant given all the other differences, the CLE did have 28mm framelines to match a 28mm Rokker lens.
As for the 40mm size, I think it's a great focal length. Not as tight as a 50mm for indoor use but still clearly a prime lens without having to think about issues of wide angle lenses.
As for metering, the meter in my CL works fine, but I certainly understand the argument to not worry about getting one with a working meter. The form factor alone makes the CL a great carry-around or travel camera (the reason I bought mine). Particularly with the oh-so-small 40mm lens. I've had more comments/compliments on the CL with 40mm than on my M6. Admittedly, those comments came from fellow photographers since, let's face it, others would think the CL was just another point and shoot camera. But then, that's also part of its charm in my book - very unobtrusive form factor and less likely to entice a thief.
Bottom line is the CL & 40mm is a great combination, in my opinion. M-mount means its compatible with most M (and LTM with adaptor) lenses as long as you avoid anything with a deep rear element. It's very small and fully mechanical so great for travel use. And if you do decide to add a higher end Leica later, the CL is a great backup or second or travel camera so you haven't wasted anything getting the CL.
Okay, enough sales pitch. But for what I see these going for, I just can't see how one can go too far wrong. Just my $.02 worth...
-Randy
As for the 40mm size, I think it's a great focal length. Not as tight as a 50mm for indoor use but still clearly a prime lens without having to think about issues of wide angle lenses.
As for metering, the meter in my CL works fine, but I certainly understand the argument to not worry about getting one with a working meter. The form factor alone makes the CL a great carry-around or travel camera (the reason I bought mine). Particularly with the oh-so-small 40mm lens. I've had more comments/compliments on the CL with 40mm than on my M6. Admittedly, those comments came from fellow photographers since, let's face it, others would think the CL was just another point and shoot camera. But then, that's also part of its charm in my book - very unobtrusive form factor and less likely to entice a thief.
Bottom line is the CL & 40mm is a great combination, in my opinion. M-mount means its compatible with most M (and LTM with adaptor) lenses as long as you avoid anything with a deep rear element. It's very small and fully mechanical so great for travel use. And if you do decide to add a higher end Leica later, the CL is a great backup or second or travel camera so you haven't wasted anything getting the CL.
Okay, enough sales pitch. But for what I see these going for, I just can't see how one can go too far wrong. Just my $.02 worth...
-Randy
Zack
Screw RC
Yeah, recently ive been heavily considering getting rid of my fuji because currently i live in a suburb of chicago, but in a month im moving into the city. i want a nice small camera i can carry around all day and not have a million people stare at and possibly entice thieves. i think the CL would be a good fit and i want to start using 35mm so i get more than 8 shots to a roll of film. I guess i have a month to lurk on ebay and try and get one.
ampguy
Veteran
they're readily available
they're readily available
there were ~65k made, and now that they're getting old and digital is huge, they are readily available. I wouldn't worry about a working meter, sunny 16 and practice work well, but a used pocket sekonic will be more flexible and accurate than anything in the CL anyways.
I also like 40mm, although I keep 18mm, 35mm, and 50mm primes, and 35mm to 400mm zooms available on outings on different bodies.
fwiw, some think the CLE lens (s/n on barrel) is better than the CL regular lens (s/n on front), but I haven't verified that.
the full range of view is wider than 35mm, not sure if it covers 28 fully though, the CLE has 28mm lines, but a very slight baseframe and/or mag. difference than the CL.
The CL's in similar shape with Leitz 40/2 glass seem to go for more than the CL/Minolta CL set, but less than a CLE set from the data I've monitored.
My I-22 and I-50 collapsibles do not touch the shutter or body parts on my CL even when collapsed, but, there may have been manufacturing tolerances, so it is best to either not use them, or to use the Leica Dymo tape mod to prevent collapsible lenses from fully collapsing to be safe. There are various compatibility lists, a conservative Leica one, a Cameraquest one which of course includes a bunch of CV lenses, and various reports on FSU lenses, but the best thing to do is carefully mount any lens with adapter if needed, with the back off, and the shutter in B mode, and use a paper or soft marked cloth to see if there will be any contact of if it's just closer than you prefer, then don't use it.
they're readily available
there were ~65k made, and now that they're getting old and digital is huge, they are readily available. I wouldn't worry about a working meter, sunny 16 and practice work well, but a used pocket sekonic will be more flexible and accurate than anything in the CL anyways.
I also like 40mm, although I keep 18mm, 35mm, and 50mm primes, and 35mm to 400mm zooms available on outings on different bodies.
fwiw, some think the CLE lens (s/n on barrel) is better than the CL regular lens (s/n on front), but I haven't verified that.
the full range of view is wider than 35mm, not sure if it covers 28 fully though, the CLE has 28mm lines, but a very slight baseframe and/or mag. difference than the CL.
The CL's in similar shape with Leitz 40/2 glass seem to go for more than the CL/Minolta CL set, but less than a CLE set from the data I've monitored.
My I-22 and I-50 collapsibles do not touch the shutter or body parts on my CL even when collapsed, but, there may have been manufacturing tolerances, so it is best to either not use them, or to use the Leica Dymo tape mod to prevent collapsible lenses from fully collapsing to be safe. There are various compatibility lists, a conservative Leica one, a Cameraquest one which of course includes a bunch of CV lenses, and various reports on FSU lenses, but the best thing to do is carefully mount any lens with adapter if needed, with the back off, and the shutter in B mode, and use a paper or soft marked cloth to see if there will be any contact of if it's just closer than you prefer, then don't use it.
Zack said:
Flyfisher Tom
Well-known
Both DAG and Krauter will modify a CL with new meters. I had one modified by Krauter and it worked perfectly.
Zack
Screw RC
Is there a big difference in the leica/minolta models, is the leicas rf more contrasty, and any major differences like that?
How much did it cost to get the modification done?
How much did it cost to get the modification done?
W
wlewisiii
Guest
The only difference is the writing on the camera. The mechanicals are exactly the same.
BTW my collapsible Summicron does collapse just fine on a CL.
William
BTW my collapsible Summicron does collapse just fine on a CL.
William
