Buying a FED/Zorki: a few questions

[pauls52]

Out of curiosity, what's the practical difference between shooting with a coated vs an uncoated lens?

This is not my area of expertise but coatings were introduced to reduce internal lens reflections and hence flare. They provide better contrast with both b&w and colour. With colour, the lower contrast with an uncoated lens results in lower saturation or more pastel looking results. This is why coated lenses are usually always preferred for colour work. With b&W, you can compensate in processing but have to be more on the look out for flare. (Many of the FSU coated lenses are highly regarded but still prone to flare.)

In regard to your earlier question about swapping shutter release assemblies, this could be possible by removing the top plate. The mushroom surround does not simply unscrew. However, you need a doner camera - individual parts are hard to find. The value of a hybrid will probably be reduced on resale and to what end? I understand that some Leica IIIs had mushroom surrounds, either as original or accessories, to improve the feel.

If the look is that important, go with an early 1f model and if the lens bothers you, buy a coated lens or maybe add a Jupiter 8 to try something a bit differnt but still in keeping with the style of the camera.
Paul

 

[Whateverist]

The value of a hybrid will probably be reduced on resale and to what end?

I'd look the way I'd like it to look?

I'd never do permanent changes. I was hoping swapping the button would be a simple matter of unscrewing the original and popping on a new one (and returning it to its original state if I ever decide to sell on), but if it isn't, I'll live with whatever button the camera comes with. It's just that I like the smaller round button for some reason... sorry if that comes across as hopelessly fussy 🙂

If the look is that important, go with an early 1f model and if the lens bothers you, buy a coated lens or maybe add a Jupiter 8 to try something a bit different but still in keeping with the style of the camera.

That sounds like an excellent plan. I don't think an uncoated lens would really *bother* me... if I end up with one I'll try it out first.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

I only used zorki's (all types apart from the Z6) and no feds. I liked zorki's especially when using with Leitz glass, they focus perfectly - but do not know whether Leitz and other glass will focus properly on early feds (see above comments). Zorki's are know to be of a somewhat better build quality then their later fed counterparts. From all the LTM camera's I own including four Leica's, I used my Z2 the most before I got a nice Z5 (with a nice 1940 Leitz summitar). The Z5 (as the Z6) is somewhat more practical since it has a bigger and very bright viewfinder. I also fancy its diopteradjustment, which non of the Z1 and Z2 have - contrary to their Leica counterparts.

 

[Joao]

Ron
Nice combo! A question: Are you able to change speeds with that lightmeter on the top?
Thanks
Joao

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Ron
Nice combo! A question: Are you able to change speeds with that lightmeter on the top?
Thanks
Joao

Hi Joao, good question: it isn't possible, not with the Z1, Z2 and LTM Leica's and I suppose for the same reason not with the FED1. I just put it on for the photo, the meter works but isn't accurate anymore, so I do not use it.

 

[Spider67]

Hi Ron,
Did you recalibrate the Zorki's RF to your Leica lenses?
FSU's as backups for CV/Leica/Canon LTM-lenses seems a good idea.
Des

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Hi Ron,
Did you recalibrate the Zorki's RF to your Leica lenses?
FSU's as backups for CV/Leica/Canon LTM-lenses seems a good idea.
Des

No, there was no need, they were spot on. I used/use following Leitz lenses:
- Elmar 90mm 1936
- Summitar 1940
- Elmar 1946
- Summaron 1954

Why do I use these lenses in stead of the industar 22 and the jupiter 8?, because I think my Leitz glass produces sharper images.

The FSU lenses I still use are:
- Orion 15: 28mm
- Industar 61 L/D: as sharp as the old Leitz glass

 

[Joao]

it isn't possible, not with the Z1, Z2 and LTM Leica's and I suppose for the same reason not with the FED1. I just put it on for the photo, the meter works but isn't accurate anymore, so I do not use it.

I regret hearing that. I have a nice Kodalux clip-on meter and I only can use it in my Kiev (and Retinette). I can still use it in the Zorki-4, but the handling of the speed dial becomes difficult (impossible in other FSU Rfs).
Regards
Joao

 

[BillBingham2]

My experience with FSUs have not been very positive. I purchased a FED-2 and two Keivs and had everything CLAed and adjusted by an expert but they never right. I sold the FED-2 (which I had pimped up with a FED-5 take up spool) and the guy who bought it sent it in to get fixed but could not. I split the cost with him (;-0 and felt like crap.

I figured out I spent on lenses, bodies, shipping, CLAing much less than if I had purchased a Leica or a Nikon. I gave up on them and then moved to Nikon and never looked back.

From time to time here you see a Leica II on the classifieds here. Keep an eye out. If it was not for the fact that the Bessa L had a built in meter I would have gone with one for my carry camera with my old 25/4.

B2 (;->

 

[wolves3012]

Puals52's posts contain some good points and I'd tend to agree with what he says. You can't expect a 50-70 year old camera not to need some attention. The biggest problem with old FEDs and Zorkis is that most of them have seen little or no servicing because they were so cheap initially. Factor in a CLA and possibly new curtains. Most Leicas of the same age have been serviced and maintained properly because they were expensive, so the maintenance cost was worthwhile.

My experiences of FSUs has been that most of the ones I've bought have worked, often not 100% functional but working with nothing broken. Virtually all of mine have been CLAd and a couple have needed new curtains. They are not in the same class as Leica but they do come close when CLAd. Build quality is, unsurprisingly, not as good!

As for which to get for a Leica-substitute, I'd go with the suggestion of a FED 1f or Zorki 1c to e. One point to notice on the earlier FEDs with Leica-style release - you can't use a modern cable-release, should that matter. A FED 1g also is the only FED with a locking shutter release - useful for long exposures! Strangely, ALL Zorkis *except* the 1 did have that feature - work that out!

If you need interchangeable lenses, the pre-war FEDs are to be avoided, as has been noted. Some of the NKVD ones in particular, had a slightly different thread that will not take later lenses anyway. Mine won't!

 

[wolves3012]

Out of curiosity, what's the practical difference between shooting with a coated vs an uncoated lens?

A coated lens gives a sharper, more saturated result and is less prone to flare. The uncoated FED lenses give a more washed-out, "old-time" look which can be appealing but you really need a hood or a good awareness of when flare will strike! Having said that, I get good, sharp results from the uncoated (non-original) one on my FED 1g - it's just not as good as the coated I-22/I-50 on Zorkis.