R
ruben
Guest
I would like to dedicate this posting to the folks lurking for an Iskra, or for a second one. I have no knowledge to judge why an Iskra folder instead of another folder, since I never used any other one. But Iskras I buyed four, along the years.
The Iskras offer you two choices of frame format. The original 6 x 6, or the Soviet kitchen developed 6 x 4,5.
Furthermore, you can use, with due explanation 120 film, or 220 film.
I have nothing against the 6 x 6 square format, but the cost. And another small complain as well that you don't must share with me: it sounds me a bit anachronistic to change film (and Medium Format film !) after 12 exposures only.
So if you are in love with the square format, but hate entangling with film exchange, 220 film will give you 24 exposures per roll. Note I have not explained yet what arrangements you need to perform.
Kodak still sells 220 film Tri-x, coded txp, bearing a nominal exposure of ISO 320. Note that ISO 320 is the double of ISO 160, an ISO very sought by pros. And indeed, pulling txp to 160 in MF makes Tri-X to shine as a luxury meal.
If you are outside the USA, notice that the falling dollar now is probably reducing the price of most of films at the USA by half of what you may be paying at your country. The problem is BH overseas shipping prices. But if you have any friend at the US, buy from BH, ship it to your friend and find a good arrangement to pick it up.
As you may know already there are two types of Iskras, the "Iskra" and the "Iskra 2". Now I am going to voice some very controversial sounds. It is of popular knowledge that the advantage of the Iskra 2 is having an uncoupled meter.
But for me this is absolutely irrelevant and I will explain why. Like the Olympus SP rangefinder, like the newer Gossen Digisix digital meter, the Iskra 2 meter doesn't tell you straightforward what combination of exposure to use but give you an Exposure Value, that you have to translate afterwards to the camera rings.
This method is terribly enervating for me, or plainly useless. To my knowledge and experience there is only one camera design that uses this method in a very clever way, not forcing you to think maths and it is the Lynx 1000 rangefinder. You move the speed ring until the needle falls on the green circle at the viewfinder, and automatically you will have all the combinations at your lens compound ring, being able to move both exposure and speed together - if you wish. No Exposure Value scale in the middle, although it is an exposure value method.
But the Iskra 2 has other advantages of great value over the common Iskra. In the technical aspect the front glasses of the viewfinder window are very much recessed, making a casual touch of your fingers virtually impossible.
Cosmetically the top casting is much more beautifull designed to my taste, and made from a higher quality chromium.
But the great great advantage is the exposure value scale on the top, very much usable too as a virtual counter of frames when using 220 film.
Ok, no more about 220 film by now.
What to look for when purchasing an Iskra ?
Regardless of the format and type of film you intend to use, let's start with the common features of all, we must make sure are found in our prospective Iskra.
What is the most important of all?
a) That the speed selector works in "B". Why ? because otherwise we would not be able to calibrate the rangefinder. I am sure there are some lonely RFF members out there on the hills (perhaps an Aussy too) which have got a perfectly rangefinder calibrated camera. But don't forget that most are not, and that we are talking here about MF, where depht of field is many times close to zero.
b) That both the camera back borders and specially the camera borders welcoming the back are spotlessly straight. No compromise here too. Light leaks are the penalty.
c) no need to say that the shutter and apperture should work, and I frankly don't think you will get a non-working one. But don't forget that "B" should work too !
d) That the 33mm thread for a hood is not damaged. Your seller will tell you, and honestly, he doesn't have any 33mm filter or hood to check this. Then, prepare yourself beforehand, buy one and ship it to the seller. No hood No Iskra. A very few of them are single coated. 33mm rubber hoods are already in production and on sale at eBay. A day after I informed this on RFF they all disapeared, but they will come back.
e) That you have a camera case, or at least and much more important a lower half case. Below I will explain the advantages of red holes Iskras. You will need the half case to drill on it a hole parallel to the Iskra back red hole, and you will need the lower half case to insert a piece of paper between the camera back and the half case to hidden the red hole, after you have wound the film.
f) That the red hole in an Iskra back is reasonable countured. It doesn't need to be as perfect as from the factory, as in one of my Iskras, but not a disaster too, as in another of my Iskras. With a reasonable one, i,e, enabling us to read the numbers in the paper side of the film, we will do the rest.
What is not important at all and why ?
a) The most common desease of the Iskras is their very stiff focusing ring. Like everything in the Iskras, excluding the shutter, the fix is a piece of cake I will explain at another time.
b) That the film counter works. It will break soon, and it is much easier to wind the film via the red hole in the back. But if you are caught with a broken film counter formerly supposed to work, and have no red hole in the back, you are grilled. You will be forced to work with 220 film only.
The great great news here is that Iskras with working film counters (in their way to break with use) are more expensive than Iskras with a red hole, and as explained this situation plays directly into our benefit.
End of Chapter
Ok, that's all by now. I have not explained yet how to smoothen the focusing wheel, how to fix a hole in the bellows, some minor but nice technical and cosmetical tips and hope to continue very soon.
Cheers,
Ruben
The Iskras offer you two choices of frame format. The original 6 x 6, or the Soviet kitchen developed 6 x 4,5.
Furthermore, you can use, with due explanation 120 film, or 220 film.
I have nothing against the 6 x 6 square format, but the cost. And another small complain as well that you don't must share with me: it sounds me a bit anachronistic to change film (and Medium Format film !) after 12 exposures only.
So if you are in love with the square format, but hate entangling with film exchange, 220 film will give you 24 exposures per roll. Note I have not explained yet what arrangements you need to perform.
Kodak still sells 220 film Tri-x, coded txp, bearing a nominal exposure of ISO 320. Note that ISO 320 is the double of ISO 160, an ISO very sought by pros. And indeed, pulling txp to 160 in MF makes Tri-X to shine as a luxury meal.
If you are outside the USA, notice that the falling dollar now is probably reducing the price of most of films at the USA by half of what you may be paying at your country. The problem is BH overseas shipping prices. But if you have any friend at the US, buy from BH, ship it to your friend and find a good arrangement to pick it up.
As you may know already there are two types of Iskras, the "Iskra" and the "Iskra 2". Now I am going to voice some very controversial sounds. It is of popular knowledge that the advantage of the Iskra 2 is having an uncoupled meter.
But for me this is absolutely irrelevant and I will explain why. Like the Olympus SP rangefinder, like the newer Gossen Digisix digital meter, the Iskra 2 meter doesn't tell you straightforward what combination of exposure to use but give you an Exposure Value, that you have to translate afterwards to the camera rings.
This method is terribly enervating for me, or plainly useless. To my knowledge and experience there is only one camera design that uses this method in a very clever way, not forcing you to think maths and it is the Lynx 1000 rangefinder. You move the speed ring until the needle falls on the green circle at the viewfinder, and automatically you will have all the combinations at your lens compound ring, being able to move both exposure and speed together - if you wish. No Exposure Value scale in the middle, although it is an exposure value method.
But the Iskra 2 has other advantages of great value over the common Iskra. In the technical aspect the front glasses of the viewfinder window are very much recessed, making a casual touch of your fingers virtually impossible.
Cosmetically the top casting is much more beautifull designed to my taste, and made from a higher quality chromium.
But the great great advantage is the exposure value scale on the top, very much usable too as a virtual counter of frames when using 220 film.
Ok, no more about 220 film by now.
What to look for when purchasing an Iskra ?
Regardless of the format and type of film you intend to use, let's start with the common features of all, we must make sure are found in our prospective Iskra.
What is the most important of all?
a) That the speed selector works in "B". Why ? because otherwise we would not be able to calibrate the rangefinder. I am sure there are some lonely RFF members out there on the hills (perhaps an Aussy too) which have got a perfectly rangefinder calibrated camera. But don't forget that most are not, and that we are talking here about MF, where depht of field is many times close to zero.
b) That both the camera back borders and specially the camera borders welcoming the back are spotlessly straight. No compromise here too. Light leaks are the penalty.
c) no need to say that the shutter and apperture should work, and I frankly don't think you will get a non-working one. But don't forget that "B" should work too !
d) That the 33mm thread for a hood is not damaged. Your seller will tell you, and honestly, he doesn't have any 33mm filter or hood to check this. Then, prepare yourself beforehand, buy one and ship it to the seller. No hood No Iskra. A very few of them are single coated. 33mm rubber hoods are already in production and on sale at eBay. A day after I informed this on RFF they all disapeared, but they will come back.
e) That you have a camera case, or at least and much more important a lower half case. Below I will explain the advantages of red holes Iskras. You will need the half case to drill on it a hole parallel to the Iskra back red hole, and you will need the lower half case to insert a piece of paper between the camera back and the half case to hidden the red hole, after you have wound the film.
f) That the red hole in an Iskra back is reasonable countured. It doesn't need to be as perfect as from the factory, as in one of my Iskras, but not a disaster too, as in another of my Iskras. With a reasonable one, i,e, enabling us to read the numbers in the paper side of the film, we will do the rest.
What is not important at all and why ?
a) The most common desease of the Iskras is their very stiff focusing ring. Like everything in the Iskras, excluding the shutter, the fix is a piece of cake I will explain at another time.
b) That the film counter works. It will break soon, and it is much easier to wind the film via the red hole in the back. But if you are caught with a broken film counter formerly supposed to work, and have no red hole in the back, you are grilled. You will be forced to work with 220 film only.
The great great news here is that Iskras with working film counters (in their way to break with use) are more expensive than Iskras with a red hole, and as explained this situation plays directly into our benefit.
End of Chapter
Ok, that's all by now. I have not explained yet how to smoothen the focusing wheel, how to fix a hole in the bellows, some minor but nice technical and cosmetical tips and hope to continue very soon.
Cheers,
Ruben
Last edited by a moderator:
