Dmitry S. Pyrin
Newbie
searching film with wide tonal range for portraits and NU. Which one could you recommend? (film + developer). With samples please, if it is possible.
Dmitry S. Pyrin
Newbie
in wide tonal range in lights, i assume something like this
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Chris101
summicronia
Not that it really matters Dmitry, but you seem to have answered your own question nicely, however I finally realized that you did not give the film/developer information.
like2fiddle
Curious
I'd like to know too, as I like what I see in those photos.... the tonal range I mean
mfogiel
Veteran
Tri X in a pyro developer - I recommend Prescysol EF semi stand, but you can try other pyro developers like Pyrocat HD, etc. I do not shoot nudes, but let me see if I can show something...
An alternative, would be Tri X in Diafine @ EI 400-800 - it holds the highlights in an incredible way, but the shadows get somewhat compressed, and there are often problems with uneven development:
An alternative, would be Tri X in Diafine @ EI 400-800 - it holds the highlights in an incredible way, but the shadows get somewhat compressed, and there are often problems with uneven development:
like2fiddle
Curious
wow, those are all great shots. Do you remember which lens/lenses you used? The clarity and sharpness of the first photo is superb. I have used primarily Tri-x over the years, but I don't think I've ever gotten results like that, looks like a very fine grained film on my monitor.
Ronald M
Veteran
Rules for fine grain
moderate speed, tri x at 200, D76 full strength. Do not dilute it
Rule for sharp
Scan to tiff and go into photoshop. Sharpen to 75 in ACR, .8 radius.
When you get done in photoshop, resize for web manually. resize to what size you want at 100 ppi. Then do a final sharpen, change to 8 bit, save as jpeg.
Highlights are preserved by moderate development. The More you develope, the denser they get and are hard to control. Tri X is probably the easiest to scan film. Developer does not matter much. Keeping time short is paramount.
you have existing negs hard to control, scan one for good highlights & save. Scan a second time to get correct shadows. Save.
Layer in photoshop with dense file on top & combine. Make a black mask for top layer and paint highlights with white to greys depending on how much you want to let thru.
If you get registration problems, change the blend mode to multiply and use arrow keys
to get a black image. Arrows will move it one pixel at a time.
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/digital-darkroom.htm
watch the video at bottom right, click open, then watch the one on blended exposure.
He uses a luminosity mask.
Save yourself a lot a trouble and develope moderately. You don`t need fancy stand techniques, just watch the clock. My times for Tri x are 4.4 at 68 for 200 EI and 5.5 for 400 Ei.
Fill the tank with developer, drop the loaded reel in, cap and invert. I start my clock with 5 sec early, darken the room, start the clock and count backwards from 5. Drop the reel in at 1. The tank top is next to the tank to the left so yu start the clock with your left hand, then grab the cap. Allow 15 sec for drain out, no stop, no water, dump in fix for 3 min. Stop or water will increase grain size. You will shorten the fix life a little, but I use it one shot anyway. Use it up on test prints.
Whatever you do, for 1/2 box speed is normal development time less 20%. Remember most published times are for diffusion enlargers which need more contrast, so start with 10% less for scanning or condensers. Then reduce 20 for 1/2 speed.
moderate speed, tri x at 200, D76 full strength. Do not dilute it
Rule for sharp
Scan to tiff and go into photoshop. Sharpen to 75 in ACR, .8 radius.
When you get done in photoshop, resize for web manually. resize to what size you want at 100 ppi. Then do a final sharpen, change to 8 bit, save as jpeg.
Highlights are preserved by moderate development. The More you develope, the denser they get and are hard to control. Tri X is probably the easiest to scan film. Developer does not matter much. Keeping time short is paramount.
you have existing negs hard to control, scan one for good highlights & save. Scan a second time to get correct shadows. Save.
Layer in photoshop with dense file on top & combine. Make a black mask for top layer and paint highlights with white to greys depending on how much you want to let thru.
If you get registration problems, change the blend mode to multiply and use arrow keys
to get a black image. Arrows will move it one pixel at a time.
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/digital-darkroom.htm
watch the video at bottom right, click open, then watch the one on blended exposure.
He uses a luminosity mask.
Save yourself a lot a trouble and develope moderately. You don`t need fancy stand techniques, just watch the clock. My times for Tri x are 4.4 at 68 for 200 EI and 5.5 for 400 Ei.
Fill the tank with developer, drop the loaded reel in, cap and invert. I start my clock with 5 sec early, darken the room, start the clock and count backwards from 5. Drop the reel in at 1. The tank top is next to the tank to the left so yu start the clock with your left hand, then grab the cap. Allow 15 sec for drain out, no stop, no water, dump in fix for 3 min. Stop or water will increase grain size. You will shorten the fix life a little, but I use it one shot anyway. Use it up on test prints.
Whatever you do, for 1/2 box speed is normal development time less 20%. Remember most published times are for diffusion enlargers which need more contrast, so start with 10% less for scanning or condensers. Then reduce 20 for 1/2 speed.
mfogiel
Veteran
@like2fiddle
The first shot is with the Hasselblad Sonnar 180/4, I believe it was shot wide open, then DR Summicron, C sonnar 50/1.5, also the next one, and the last with the 85/1.4 Planar ZF.
The first shot is with the Hasselblad Sonnar 180/4, I believe it was shot wide open, then DR Summicron, C sonnar 50/1.5, also the next one, and the last with the 85/1.4 Planar ZF.
Dmitry S. Pyrin
Newbie
in wide tonal range in lights, i assume something like this
it is Sony A900 (digital), but i think that it is possible to get same results on film. The only trouble is to find correct pair "film/developer". Tommorow i'll try D-23 (1+3) and Fuji neopan 100.
Lilserenity
Well-known
If it were me I'd probably use Tri-X rated at 200 in D-76, or T-Max 400 likewise in D-76. Use the latter if the finest grain is an important consideration. I know it's not very esoteric sounding but it works for me
redpony
Member
Plus X in FG7 is nice:
Dmitry S. Pyrin
Newbie
yesterday, i've tried stand-development of Acros100 in D-23 1+3 (60min. total. agitation 2 minutes only, then leave untouched for 60 minutes )
and normal dev. in D-23 1+3 (20min. total , agitation on 3,5,9,13 min. 10 sec. intervals)
and normal dev. in D-23 1+3 (20min. total , agitation on 3,5,9,13 min. 10 sec. intervals)
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Arvay
Obscurant
http://www.kodak.com:80/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/plusX125.jhtml?pq-path=13403
125 PX may be a film of choice
125 PX may be a film of choice
Tim Gray
Well-known
If you want something that smooth looking, I would guess it will be a lot easier to get with medium format. And a slower film. Tmax 100, Delta 100, Acros, PanF+?