Disaster_Area
Gadget Monger
Anyone have any examples or a link to examples of C-41 colour .. or even B&W filim processed in B&W chemicals? I know the process works... sort of... but has anyone found any combinations that produce better/good-different than results from actual B&W film? Or is it basically just something to do if you run out of B&W or have some extra colour film laying around?
petronius
Veteran
200 ASA CN-film in Rodinal 1+40 for 10 min gave negatives for me, that were scannable, but very dense. I did this to test if I could replace expensive BW films by cheap supermarket CN film. In my opinion it is better to go the complete color-line and then convert the pictures to BW than to develop CN film in BW chemicals.
The example is done as described above. (Much PS work after scanning)
The example is done as described above. (Much PS work after scanning)
Attachments
ampguy
Veteran
a lot of examples w/ d76 in another thread
a lot of examples w/ d76 in another thread
you can achieve a different look in my experience, here is one roll, see the other thread for links to other rolls and film types.
a lot of examples w/ d76 in another thread
you can achieve a different look in my experience, here is one roll, see the other thread for links to other rolls and film types.
Anyone have any examples or a link to examples of C-41 colour .. or even B&W filim processed in B&W chemicals? I know the process works... sort of... but has anyone found any combinations that produce better/good-different than results from actual B&W film? Or is it basically just something to do if you run out of B&W or have some extra colour film laying around?
nrb
Nuno Borges
You can find examples of my experience (50 rolls) on my portfolio in rff.
Best results seem to be with hc110 sol b or h. Rodinal seems to be very grainy and tone compressed, d76 seems promising.
Best results seem to be with hc110 sol b or h. Rodinal seems to be very grainy and tone compressed, d76 seems promising.
feenej
Well-known
Lousy results with Fujicolor 200. Always get blocked highlights with flashed photos, no matter the film.

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blw
Well-known
I've wondered the same thing and asked about it in an old thread of mine. Roger Hicks suggested I just have the film developed in C41 anyway. Of course, I was also asking regarding using some long-expired XTol that I have yet to mix up. That stuff has an expiration date of 2003 or 2005.
Should I just trash it; or is some cheap (grocery store brand) C41 a good guinea pig for this experiment? If it is, how long would any of you develop it for?
Not trying to hijack, but I've just wanted to know the answer to your question too- albeit a bit modified.
Should I just trash it; or is some cheap (grocery store brand) C41 a good guinea pig for this experiment? If it is, how long would any of you develop it for?
Not trying to hijack, but I've just wanted to know the answer to your question too- albeit a bit modified.
1alfred
Established
ampguy
Veteran
nice photo!
nice photo!
very nice.
I don't get the 1 hour though. Anything past 13 minutes for me gets a little weird. Maybe try the Rodinal 1+12 at 13 minutes??
nice photo!
very nice.
I don't get the 1 hour though. Anything past 13 minutes for me gets a little weird. Maybe try the Rodinal 1+12 at 13 minutes??
The last post in my blog has a photograph you might like. Kodak gold 200 in Rodinal 1+24 stand developed for an hour....
I`ll try fifteen minutes next time
Worth a try if you like to experiment. Good luck!
nrb
Nuno Borges
For me 5 min in hc110 B for Agfa Vista 400 gives best results.
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