C-41 kits and the process in general

[Photo_Smith]

It could be, but as per before, I have scanned a roll of this same film done at the lab w/ the same settings, w/ no magenta tinge on any of them, much less all of them. I doubt it was perfect but it was very natural/usable that time, but not this time. I don't think it's the scan.

I would still after what you've said it isn't a given that it is the developing. The said different Labs will give a different result within sensometric tolerance, its possible for lab A to be 5-10 points more magenta than lab B and still both be OK.

Without seeing the film, you'd be hard pressed to know and give my opinion but I have processed a lot of colour film (probably over 250,000).

If you can trim the magenta out in printing then the roll is normal, as colour C41 generally goes cross curve, magenta all over cast would mean low activity of Colour developer, too week too cool etc.

Like I said though expecting to match the results of your lab on auto settings on the scanner is a dubious way to judge accuracy.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Hey -- thanks for the input.
I'll keep messing around with some other films and see what I get, and something perhaps a bit higher quality. My guess is other than crossing expired E6, I will likely use Portra. But, not as much as B&W. 🙂

I only have 5 rolls left for this ready use kit, but I have ordered the 5L concentrate kit, so again, I'll have more variables to deal with.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I'm about done w/ the Digibase Ready Use. For the most part I'm happy w/ the results. Been reading around though. I have been doing a rinse after the stabilizer (several minutes) and then a final rinse w/ a photoflo type product to prevent from streaking. Is this a no-no? The instructions only mention recommended baths between the chemicals, not after.

If I'm not supposed to rinse after the stabilizer, what's the preferred method to avoid streaks?

I got the mix-yourself one which I'll do, when I have 10 or so films ready to go.

 

[Johnmcd]

I decided to test the longevity of my mixed Tetenal C-41 chemicals today. I had stored them in clear, half filled 2 litre plastic bottles in a semi-dark pantry. They had been there after doing 3 films over 6 months ago. The film was Fuji Reala 100 iso from 2002 that had always been refrigerated. Camera was a Fuji GF670.

Processed with a JOBO CP2 using standard times from the manufacturer @ 38 degrees C. Also standard tap water for all chemicals.

Scanned on a Minolta Multi Scan Pro and Vuescan.

Cheers - John

 

[Johnmcd]

I'm about done w/ the Digibase Ready Use. For the most part I'm happy w/ the results. Been reading around though. I have been doing a rinse after the stabilizer (several minutes) and then a final rinse w/ a photoflo type product to prevent from streaking. Is this a no-no? The instructions only mention recommended baths between the chemicals, not after.

If I'm not supposed to rinse after the stabilizer, what's the preferred method to avoid streaks?

I got the mix-yourself one which I'll do, when I have 10 or so films ready to go.

I don't do any additional rinse with photoflo or such. I believe the Stabilizer is actually a type of photoflo. I just pour the stabilizer from the tank into a wide bowl after everything is finished. I then take each end of the film and move it back and forth through the Stabilizer after scooping any bubbles off the surface. I then hang to dry. No problems at all.

Hope this helps.

Cheers - John

 

[mwoenv]

No, no water rinse after the stabilizer. For water drying marks or streaks, I found adding 1/2 teaspoon Photo-Flo concentrate per liter of stabilizer, and adding again every 10 rolls, eliminated marks/streaks. I tried this after getting significant water drying marks using UNicolor chems (on 135 film only, not 120 film, interestingly) and it eliminated streaks/marks.

When I used the older Digibase kit, with separate bleach and fix, I did not get water drying marks or streaks. I have not used the currently-available Digibase kit that has blix instead of separate bleach and fix.

 

[Photo_Smith]

The stabilizer does what it says on the tin; it makes the developed emulsion stable so it preserves the dye clouds in your film.
It also has a fungal inhibitor and a surfactant to give the film a nice streak free finish.
It is important to think of it as a final rinse, so other liquids should not touch the film after stabilisation.
Think about how prolabs use it, follow the guidelines.

 

[Fotohuis]

Exactly how it is. No other rinse after the stabilizer. To get rid of stripes and drying marks: sometimes you have to dilute the stabilizer a little bit more or sometimes you have to add a little bit extra wetting agent to the stabilizer.

In my experience with the Rollei Digibase C41 with seperate bleach and fix I made a little bit more dilluted stabilizer in destilled water for better results.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Thanks. I got one last roll left according to the sheet, so will find out how bad the dry marks are or aren't.

 

[shadowfox]

The example developed images in this thread are beautiful.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Okay, I'm using the Rollei C41 Midi Kit (mix the chemicals yourself as opposed to ready use). I'm happy with the colors. I'm definitely NOT happy with the dots all over the negs from the stabilizer not drying properly. I've got it in a room that's dry as a bone. I've done two rolls... one hand dry only, another using the finger squeegee method. Both yeild similar results. I could probably wash it off to some extent but that just doesn't seem right. I'm confident that I mixed the stabilizer properly... not not sure that I'm hang drying it right (if that's even possible to mess up).

It doesn't look like drying marks. Looks more like micro-clumps. Lots of them, in a line. Any help with just that? Pics to follow.

 

[Particular]

I originally had a problem like this with the Tetenal powder kit. The stabilizer would crystalize on the negatives. I got a bottle of kodak liquid stabilizer (which has wetting agent in the formula), and the problem disappeared. I did find that using film cleaner, or 99% isopropyl alcohol the crystals wiped right off.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

When did you apply the film cleaner? After it had totally dried, or while it was drying? (I would assume the former). I'll check my local shop for Kodak stabilizer, but not sure what I'll come up with. This might be a dumb question, but is that step totally necessary? Is there an actual chemical in it that has to do w/ developing + a wetting agent, or just a wetting agent? I mixed it with distilled water. Would diluting it help?