2wenty
Well-known
Hey guys,
Quick question, I cant seem to find an answer to.
I started out using the Tetenal c41 kit. With this kit the bleach and fixer are mixed together into one chemical (blix). Per the instructions in the kit you have to extend the time for blix as you process more film just like the developer.
I have since moved on to the Fuji Hunt kit because I want the best results you can possible get. In this kit the bleach and fixer are separate steps. The instructions in the kit don't say wether I need to extend the times for these steps as I develop more film. It only says to extend development times.
This is where Im confused and not sure what to do. Do the times need to be extended for the bleach and fixer just like the Tetenal kit? Or is it like black and white where the stop and fix stay the same?
It doesn't help that there isn't much info in the Fuji Hunt kit for smaller batches. Its looks like its for a lab setup for 5L at a time. I mixed it down to 1L so it will last.
So far I have developed 2 rolls and the difference in the Fuji kit compared to the Tetenal is fairly noticeable. The colors are a lot (!) more accurate and pleasing. I really want to iron this setup out as I would like to use this kit from now on.
Thank you.
Quick question, I cant seem to find an answer to.
I started out using the Tetenal c41 kit. With this kit the bleach and fixer are mixed together into one chemical (blix). Per the instructions in the kit you have to extend the time for blix as you process more film just like the developer.
I have since moved on to the Fuji Hunt kit because I want the best results you can possible get. In this kit the bleach and fixer are separate steps. The instructions in the kit don't say wether I need to extend the times for these steps as I develop more film. It only says to extend development times.
This is where Im confused and not sure what to do. Do the times need to be extended for the bleach and fixer just like the Tetenal kit? Or is it like black and white where the stop and fix stay the same?
It doesn't help that there isn't much info in the Fuji Hunt kit for smaller batches. Its looks like its for a lab setup for 5L at a time. I mixed it down to 1L so it will last.
So far I have developed 2 rolls and the difference in the Fuji kit compared to the Tetenal is fairly noticeable. The colors are a lot (!) more accurate and pleasing. I really want to iron this setup out as I would like to use this kit from now on.
Thank you.
Bill Clark
Veteran
With Arista by Freestyle only the developer time is increased with each additional roll using the same working solution. They use Blix (bleach fixer mix) that don't need an increase in time with each additional roll developed with the same working solution.
However, they do recommend using the working solutions for one roll.
I just ordered some Ilford XP 2 Plus to try.
Pdf:
However, they do recommend using the working solutions for one roll.
I just ordered some Ilford XP 2 Plus to try.
Pdf:
Attachments
Bill Clark
Veteran
link to pdf on instructions:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/pdf/product_pdfs/arista/Arista-liquid-C41.pdf
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/pdf/product_pdfs/arista/Arista-liquid-C41.pdf
brbo
Well-known
I use FujiHunt X-Press C-41 kit a lot and don't find it necessary to extend bleach and fix times.
I still extend the time after I've bleached/fixed more than 10-15 rolls with my 1L of working solutions just to be on the safe side. It won't hurt the film if bleach and fix is longer than absolutely necessary.
Really funny that you notice a difference with two different C-41 kits. I was once given Tetenal C-41 powder kit that was probably at least 10 years old and I can't say I could notice any difference. I've also tried a few other C-41 kits. No difference. I like Fuji X-Press C-41 because it's bleach is least prone to leaking when processed in my Jobo.
I still extend the time after I've bleached/fixed more than 10-15 rolls with my 1L of working solutions just to be on the safe side. It won't hurt the film if bleach and fix is longer than absolutely necessary.
Really funny that you notice a difference with two different C-41 kits. I was once given Tetenal C-41 powder kit that was probably at least 10 years old and I can't say I could notice any difference. I've also tried a few other C-41 kits. No difference. I like Fuji X-Press C-41 because it's bleach is least prone to leaking when processed in my Jobo.
2wenty
Well-known
Thanks Bill and brbo
Thats perfect thank you.
I have a Noritsu LS 600 scanner that I use and with the rolls Ive developed with the Tetenal kit the scans always looked slightly off. I would have to fix the colors in photoshop by subtracting green. With the rolls I developed with the Fuji kit I haven't had to do this. Maybe there was something up with my Tetnal kit or it was slightly mixed wrong, but it was pretty noticeable as soon as I used the Fuji kit.
Can I ask how you extend your developing times? I was thinking of starting out by roughly extending 30 seconds every 4 rolls, possibly more if its 800-1600 iso.
Thanks.
Thats perfect thank you.
I have a Noritsu LS 600 scanner that I use and with the rolls Ive developed with the Tetenal kit the scans always looked slightly off. I would have to fix the colors in photoshop by subtracting green. With the rolls I developed with the Fuji kit I haven't had to do this. Maybe there was something up with my Tetnal kit or it was slightly mixed wrong, but it was pretty noticeable as soon as I used the Fuji kit.
Can I ask how you extend your developing times? I was thinking of starting out by roughly extending 30 seconds every 4 rolls, possibly more if its 800-1600 iso.
Thanks.
brbo
Well-known
I personally never develop for more than 3:30. Extending 30s every 4 rolls is way too much. I don't change anything for about 8-10 rolls. Fuji X-Press C-41 kit doesn't include a starter component and I've noticed freshly mixed developer is rather "aggressive" (I never develop 120 or sheet film when it's at the beginning of it's life). It behaves normally after processing a few rolls (developer ripening).
If I felt I was getting thin/flat negatives with even 30s added to standard 3:15 I'd rather mix another liter of developer.
If I felt I was getting thin/flat negatives with even 30s added to standard 3:15 I'd rather mix another liter of developer.