msbarnes
Well-known
I just got an M and so I want to maintain it properly, but I'm not afraid to get it dirty. But my questions are for cameras in general, but more of an emphasis mechanical cameras (Leica M's and Rolleiflex TLR's, mostly) if that matters. I'm not a photographer so I don't use them that often...maybe a roll/week, on average. Sometimes more, sometimes less.
Camera bodies:
1. How do know when it needs a CLA?
Do you wait until something goes wrong/starts feeling off (e.g. shutter speeds drifting, etc.) or do you do so periodically (e.g. every x amount of years with heavy use; x amount of years with light use).
2. Inactive cameras, should have the shutters exercised, right? I store them uncocked.
Camera lenses:
1. Am I storing things correctly? I just leave my lenses on top of my closet, faced up and capped. It's relatively dry and dark. I heard that storing them in cases and bags can cause fungus so I avoid that. I don't pay attention to the aperture, if that matters (e.g wide open/closed down).
Thanks!
I know it's maybe a bit paranoia but nothing would be worse than paying thousands on a lens (which I haven't) and having it attacked by fungus.
Camera bodies:
1. How do know when it needs a CLA?
Do you wait until something goes wrong/starts feeling off (e.g. shutter speeds drifting, etc.) or do you do so periodically (e.g. every x amount of years with heavy use; x amount of years with light use).
2. Inactive cameras, should have the shutters exercised, right? I store them uncocked.
Camera lenses:
1. Am I storing things correctly? I just leave my lenses on top of my closet, faced up and capped. It's relatively dry and dark. I heard that storing them in cases and bags can cause fungus so I avoid that. I don't pay attention to the aperture, if that matters (e.g wide open/closed down).
Thanks!
I know it's maybe a bit paranoia but nothing would be worse than paying thousands on a lens (which I haven't) and having it attacked by fungus.
Robert Lai
Well-known
I typically CLA when I first acquire a "new" camera. New for me means that this 50+ year old camera has probably been neglected by its previous owners. That way, I get all the reliability and problems out of the way at once. The exception, of course are those cameras that I obtain from diligent RFFers who have documented a recent CLA.
For cameras, I find that shutters and self-timers start to give trouble first. For leaf shutters, usually the 1 second speed starts to stick. For focal plane shutters, the 1/1000 speed may have tapering (one side of the frame has a different exposure than the other). Any other obvious defects are a reason to get a CLA. After that, I basically service them if something goes wrong.
The shutters do need to be exercised at least once per month. Just fire the empty camera at every shutter speed, and also use the self-timer. I store with the springs relaxed. Nikon actually says not to store the camera with the shutter wound overnight in their F2 manual.
The main killer of these older cameras is moisture, especially salt water. I avoid the beach and ocean - use a disposable for that. I don't shoot in the rain for the same reason. The moisture breeds rust and fungus rot. I keep the film out, if I'm not going to shoot a camera for a long period of time. Gelatine is an organic substance. Why give fungus an incentive to grow?
Lenses do need to be periodically inspected for fungus. You can do this while exercising the shutters monthly.
A good humidity and temperature controlled (dry and cool) environment is nice for storage. I use large plastic storage boxes, drilled for ventilation on the sides. There is also a dehumidifier in the room where the cameras are stored.
For cameras, I find that shutters and self-timers start to give trouble first. For leaf shutters, usually the 1 second speed starts to stick. For focal plane shutters, the 1/1000 speed may have tapering (one side of the frame has a different exposure than the other). Any other obvious defects are a reason to get a CLA. After that, I basically service them if something goes wrong.
The shutters do need to be exercised at least once per month. Just fire the empty camera at every shutter speed, and also use the self-timer. I store with the springs relaxed. Nikon actually says not to store the camera with the shutter wound overnight in their F2 manual.
The main killer of these older cameras is moisture, especially salt water. I avoid the beach and ocean - use a disposable for that. I don't shoot in the rain for the same reason. The moisture breeds rust and fungus rot. I keep the film out, if I'm not going to shoot a camera for a long period of time. Gelatine is an organic substance. Why give fungus an incentive to grow?
Lenses do need to be periodically inspected for fungus. You can do this while exercising the shutters monthly.
A good humidity and temperature controlled (dry and cool) environment is nice for storage. I use large plastic storage boxes, drilled for ventilation on the sides. There is also a dehumidifier in the room where the cameras are stored.
msbarnes
Well-known
Thank you, that was very helpful.
colyn
ישו משיח
If it has never been serviced it's a good idea to do it now. If it has recently been serviced depending on the amount of usage every 5-8 years.
If you live in a area where the air quality is not so good or there are smokers living in your home you might want to consider a CLA closer to 3-4 years.
It's really difficult to say just when to get it serviced but when it starts to act up it's a good idea to have it done. Otherwise see my above answers.
Shutters should be exercised at least once a month..
You should never store lens in a closet or dark area even if it is dry. Fungus loves dark areas and contrary to popular belief thrives in dry as well as wet areas.. In addition dust/lint from clothes in the closet helps to carry fungus spores..
Expose the lens to well lit areas often.
Aperture does not matter..
One way to control fungus is to use the lens not store them..
msbarnes
Well-known
very good advice.
cosmonaut
Well-known
I was told by one of the service tech never have one worked on unless you have an issue. It's not a good idea to open it up unless it's broke. My first SLR worked for over 20+ years. I have had four different Leicas and never had one worked on. But like said before use it. If you don't sell it to someone who will.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
It's a good idea to put lenses in full sun occasionally ... or so I've read somewhere?
Anything that is potentially forming in there will be zapped by the UV apparently.
Anything that is potentially forming in there will be zapped by the UV apparently.
ELS
Member
Hello:
Interesting thoughts, so if one "should" place the lenses in sunlight, is this meant that the lens caps should be removed,
and then which manner are the lenses supposed to be 'placed" in position to the sun?
I am guessing that this is to possibly eliminate the fungus spores or such?
Thanks for reading,
Have a nice day...
Ed
Be careful in Australia Keith. Although sunlight may be good for fungus prevention, leaving a lens in the full Australian summer sun for any period of time could create more problems than it solves because, if it gets hot enough, lubricants such as the helicoid grease may thin enough to contaminate aperture blades or other parts. Sunny winter days are another matter, of course, but probably best putting lenses in the sun in the late afternoon during summer on days that are not too hot, by then the sun has lost most of its sting.
Re: the original query.
If a Compur shutter such as fitted to a Rollei is running well, my suggestion would be to exercise all the speeds once a month or so if the camera is not in use, and to run through all the speeds before loading it. It's never a bad idea to do this with any old camera anyway, especially one that isn't in constant use. Apart from keeping the escapements moving in itself it will ensure that if the mechanism decides to stick you'll spot it early and without wasting any film.
Storing camera in well lit places may help guard against fungus, but be aware of the possible effects of constant exposure to light on selenium meter cells. Yes, I have looked into the topic fairly extensively, so I am aware of the likelihood that moisture is the main culprit in killing cells; however, the manual for my (Zeiss Ikon) Ikophot meter warns against constant exposure to light. I have sufficient faith in the competence of the great German camera marques to accept that, if ZI felt it was an issue, their advice is worth heeding. All that is needed is a small piece of tape or some sort of shield to cover up the cell if the camera sits on a sunny shelf.
For what it is worth, my own experience has been that--having accumulated quite a number of Contaflice over the last couple of years--the examples that usually arrive with working meters tend to be models such as the II and the IV, to which ZI cleverly installed a folding cover for the meter cell. Models not much younger, such as the original Super, on the other hand, which has no cover for the cell, have, in my experience, a much poorer chance of featuring a selenium cell in good working condition. So perhaps Zeiss were onto something with their advice.
To prevent moisture problems, I am a big fan of the plastic snaplock bags you find at the supermarket. I place cameras not being used for some time or awaiting repairs into one of those with a couple of dessicant sachets. This way you can lock moisture out; and the sachets pick up any moisture present in the air inside. Squash the bags down as much as possible to expel as much air as you can before you snap lock them.
Don't forget to change or dry the sachets occasionally. I also like to give them a little sun occasionally (out of the bags) as insurance...
Regards,
Brett
Richard G
Veteran
M bodies may vary in their need for service. My impression is that the quality of lubricants improved a lot into the '80s and '90s when my M6 was made, compared to when my M2 was made. I have had Leica bodies that haven't been serviced in decades but all my current ones have had some sort of service in the last 8 years. The M2 went longest, and the 1s speed was slowing down, improving after an afternoon in the sun. My expert tech asked whether the 1/30s was 'screechy'. It was. After service the M2 was better than I had ever had it, and it was the camera I took up to the snow last year knowing it would manage well. The 1/30s sound of the mechanical Ms is now similar, low pitched compared to that lubricant free screech before the service.
Using the lenses (caps off) and storing where there is light, not necessarily direct sun, is best. A bit of sun is good but I agree with SH's advice above about the Australian full sun. The manual of any camera will tell you not to leave it in full sun in the car or even in the glove box.
Using the lenses (caps off) and storing where there is light, not necessarily direct sun, is best. A bit of sun is good but I agree with SH's advice above about the Australian full sun. The manual of any camera will tell you not to leave it in full sun in the car or even in the glove box.
Sparrow
Veteran
The UV element of sunlight will rot the Vulcanite just like any other natural rubber product, and personally I would never put photo equipment in direct sunlight nor have it serviced unless it had a fault and needed repairing, I'm not sure where this modern CLA fetish has come from