Camera-Scan Basic Questions - Ask & Answer!

[ColSebastianMoran]

After buying stuff that worked ok but wasn't quite right, decided to get a Skier Copy Box. It is very well made, much brighter than the cheap lightpad I had been using, will work with the ES-2 but found the holder designed for the box just works better. Thank you, Richard!

Delighted to hear. I'm shooting about about 1/100th ISO100 f/5.6 at 1x.

 

[frank-grumman]

Negative Supply equipment, Kaiser SlimLine Plano, Fujifilm 400H Pro converted via NLP 2.1, Fuji X-H1 w/ 80/28 Macro and taken with Nikon F6 and 24/120mm/f4.

https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1633931

 

[ranger9]

I know I've mentioned this video elsewhere before, but it might help some people in this thread:

https://youtu.be/nDUupxM_418

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Another Nikon lens I find good for scanning use like this is the enlarging EL-Nikkor 50/2.8 on a focusing adapter of the range 25-55mm made by Pixco. This in turn goes on a m42 to Nikon F adapter then on my Nikon D3500.
John Mc

There are two different 50 f/2.8 El-Nikkor lenses: old one is metal body huge numerals. New one, the "N" has plastic body, small numerals, as above. I've tested both for camera scanning of 35mm. New version is OK, but the old one I find to be quite a bit better for 35mm to APS and to FF. This is surprising since most 35mm enlarging lenses are optimized for blow-ups to 8x10 and are not so good in the macro range.

Both are pretty good bargains these days. Here's the lens I like:

 

[Waus]

Very interested, already have a Sony A7II, Nikon Belows PB5 & PS5 negative carrier, Micro-Nikkor 55mm, but what kind of (LED?) light source to use? Thanks for your input!

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Very interested, already have a Sony A7II, Nikon Belows PB5 & PS5 negative carrier, Micro-Nikkor 55mm, but what kind of (LED?) light source to use? Thanks for your input!

You want to shine a pretty bright light at the diffuser on the PS5. You want the light to be relatively narrow; not wide because wide light source will shade the edges of image area on film/slide. You'll want a directional bulb or light.

Easiest I know is this CREE bulb, available easily at Home Depot, hardware stores, etc.

My preferred lights for the PS4-PS5 are MR-16 bulbs, either SORAA "vivid light" daylight bulb (LED) or the excellent incandescent Solux 4700°K MR-16 bulb. Trouble is you'll have to jury-rig a fixture to hold these; I have looked for a "reading lamp" or similar to hold these, but no luck.

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

... and you could just point your whole PB5-PS5 rig towards a bright cloudy sky area.

 

[charjohncarter]

I've posted this image many times, I quit using this when my digital camera died. It worked great, even with a small pixel camera. I built this device in 2008, and still have it. If I ever had to do a very large 35mm print I would fire it up again. The critical steps are: macro lens, and making sure everything is square. Light source is also important for color. There are many ways to deal with this: custom color balance, one of those white plastic dishes, or post processing software (something like ColorPerfect).

Another reason I stopped using this was; it was in different room from my computer. Now with WiFi or some other type of wireless tethering that would be solved.

Untitled by John Carter, on Flickr

 

[Beemermark]

My basic question is why? Why no just buy a great film scanner like the V800? It looks to me like most people have just as much dollars tied up in klutz setup as a simple, easy, comparative scanner like the V800.

 

[madNbad]

My basic question is why? Why no just buy a great film scanner like the V800? It looks to me like most people have just as much dollars tied up in klutz setup as a simple, easy, comparative scanner like the V800.

The house we live in is quite small and space for a large dedicated scanner like the V800 is not available. I used a Plustek 7600i for a number of years but scanning a roll was an all day affair. I've been camera scanning for about a year and have tried a number of different products. Thanks to the information found both here and on the Negative Lab Pro blog, I now have a system that is portable, quick to set up and produces a good image. I share a small work table with my spouses beading projects so portability was paramount. The current setup is a Sony A5100 with a 55 2.8 Micro-Nikkor. The lens is attached to the camera with a Metabone adapter plus a PK-11a (8mm) extension ring to compensate for the APS-C sensor. A Skier Copy Box II provides both the light source and holds the negative quite flat. The unit is shipped holders for both 35mm film and an adjustable holder for negatives up to 6x9. Everything is on a Alzo Copystand and can be set up or put away in a couple of minutes, plus it takes about twenty minutes to scan a roll. If my negatives are exposed correctly, there is very little post processing.

IMG_1827

 

[charjohncarter]

My basic question is why? Why no just buy a great film scanner like the V800? It looks to me like most people have just as much dollars tied up in klutz setup as a simple, easy, comparative scanner like the V800.

You are probably right. My rig cost are $50 in plastic and $45 for the macro lens. I had the slide copier which would have been $25. It took me a lot of time to set it up each time I used it (I had mine set up for 120 & 35mm). So it was, as you say, a 'klutz' outfit.

On the other hand once it was set up, focused, and all setting adjusted you run thru a roll of 35 in 4 minutes. But then you had to take out the card, run down the hall download it to the computer.

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

My basic question is why? Why no just buy a great film scanner like the V800? It looks to me like most people have just as much dollars tied up in klutz setup as a simple, easy, comparative scanner like the V800.

That's a very fair question.

For me, it's first of all throughput. I can do the cam-shots for a whole roll or tray of slides quickly. Then, at another sitting, do the post on all of them. Compared to a minute or so per image with the scanner.

Second, I think I'm getting better results, or results at least as good. And, for selected images, resolution is unlimited with stitching.

Drawbacks:
- Today, unless you spend megabucks, you have to rig up most of this yourself.
- Dust/lint/scratches were well-handled by Digital ICE, nothing comparable available for camera-scans.
- The color-science engineers did some other nifty things in scanner software. For example, at comparable resolution, my NikonScan shows less grain in sky than my camera-scans. Digital ROC was helpful for faded films.

 

[frank-grumman]

FWIW, I invested mega-bucks in a full-boat Negative Supply system along with a Kaiser SlimLine Plano light, RRS clamp, and USB-C tethering cable, and NLP 2.1.x. Why? I have significant space limitations in the small office space I have in our Condo unit. While I have a V850 and SF 8.8, scanning a roll of 36 is for me at least a tedious process.

The NS setup is anything but “Klutzy.” Beautifully made, simple to set up, rock solid, and because the flooring in our condo unit was “zero’d out” as to level, and the platform on which the NS setup is set is as well zero’d out, the entire system is level. I can digitize a 36-37 frame roll of film in 5’ and the outcome via SD card to LR Classic and NLP. NLP allows me to convert all the frames BAM. I can then choose the ones that I think are worth working for better effect to distribute to folks I want to have them. When I learn how to integrate tethering with C1 Pilot and C1 20, that may well be faster. Also FWIW, my V850 does a superb job of working on all the old photographs I’ve just discovered getting ready to toss out some old shoe boxes left over from our move out of our home of 25 years.

As always, everybody’s mileage may vary. It’s not ever the case that there is only one way to do anything, so I’m only saying here what works for me. Expensive to go the route I’ve gone? No question. Worth it? From my point of view, Yes.

 

[Ronald M]

The ES-2 is cheesey-like build construction. The retaining springs on the "holder" are insufficiently strong to hold the film holder in place, at times the weight of which w/ 35mm film was enough to cause the entire holder to tip over to the long side when attempting to scan the first frame. I purchased it brand-new from BH. Save your money and look elsewhere and Col. Moran and others here on the site will have alternate suggestions. You could also go over to www.negativelabpro.com, go the forum section and look for the thread on which there have been a number of posts with persons showing pictures of their rigs. I decided to spare no expense so I got the full 35mm rig from www.negative.supply to use with my Fuji X-H1, and a Fuji 80mm Macro, a Kaiser Slim Plano, smaller version. HTH, Frank

Two blocks 2 9/16 tall will stop the tip if I use my D800 + battery pack. Measure for your setup.
I can make a better setup and would if I scanned more film.
I use a Lume light which works fine. Monochrome is simple. 4 Color neg white bal on area between frames, invert with curve, auto WB with individual channels, upper right to lower left, then make small adjustments as required.

 

[analoged]

Anybody use a A7, Sony FE 50 mm F2.8 Macro Lens、Nikon eS-2 film holder？

 

[madNbad]

It should be a fine setup, just spend the money for a good light source. The ES-2 is a little wobbly but a good system overall. For a short while, I used a A5100 with a 55 Micro-Nikkor and the ES-2. I had to add a 30mm extension tube at the front to compensate for the APS-C sensor in addition to an 8mm tube between the adapter and the lens. Good light sources will give both increased shutter speeds and much better white balance. If you have Lightroom and are planing on scanning color, Negative Lab Pro will simplify the workflow. Let us know how it’s working out.

 

[analoged]

Thanks for the response, right now I just have a A7s with kit lens, so I was thinking that FE 50 Marco and ES-2 would be cheapest way to start camera scanning. I always think about getting a used A7r to compliment my A7s, so that would be an option in the future. The other option is an Epson (4490, 4990, V550, v600) which is cheaper and there are many other uses for flat bed scanners. Still on the fence, I am quite happy with my Minolta Dimage III for 35mm, but I'm starting to shot more MF.

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Thanks for the response, right now I just have a A7s with kit lens, so I was thinking that FE 50 Marco and ES-2 would be cheapest way to start camera scanning. I always think about getting a used A7r to compliment my A7s, so that would be an option in the future. The other option is an Epson (4490, 4990, V550, v600) which is cheaper and there are many other uses for flat bed scanners. Still on the fence, I am quite happy with my Minolta Dimage III for 35mm, but I'm starting to shot more MF.

FWIW, find that 50MPx resolves grain better, but adds little image detail. Here's a sample at 50MPx vs 24MPx. I think 24MPx may well be a sweet spot for camera scanning.

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Camera Scan, APS Body and Nikon Bellows?

Camera Scan, APS Body and Nikon Bellows?

Bellows and bellows-lenses were all the rage at one time. Major manufacturers had a system: Rails, camera mount, bellows, front standard w/lens mount, maybe a second bellows to shade the lens, and finally a flim/slide holder. These can be very effective, makes a nice compact setup. Watch for alignment and positioning. Check your intended lens will focus at desired magnification. Lots of light source options, including just pointing whole rig at bright clouds or even direct sunlight.

Can I camera-scan 35mm film to my APS body using my beautiful old bellows? With my 55mm macro lens? Answer: No.

Why not? The minimum extension with my Nikon bellows is 43mm, with either of the Nikon 55mm macro lenses, that extension produces a minimum magnification of right about 1x. For 35mm to an APS body, you need 0.67x.

So this lens and bellows can cam-scan to a full-frame body, but not to APS.

How to use the bellows and APS Body? Easiest route is an enlarging lens about 80mm and an M39-to-Nikon ring. Here's the setup with 80mm f/4 Rodagon focused properly for cam-scan to an APS body.

How about full frame body? Yes, with some qualifications.

Here's one setup with a 50mm enlarging lens and a FF body. Also works with a somewhat longer lens.

(Note that setup w/this lens would not work with an APS body; the minimum bellows extension with Nikon PB-4 is 43 mm.)

 

[anerjee]

My only digital camera is a M240. I used to have a Leica BEOON, but sold it as it was not easy to work with. Also, the lack of tethered shooting with the digital M makes for an uncomfortable experience. With that in mind, some questions:

1. Any disadvantage if I buy a smaller sensor camera to do the scanning - e.g. an older generation Fuji or Olympus?
2. If no disadvantage, any preference from people who have experience? [Camera/Lens]
3. If I wanted to proceed with the M240, which macro lens would be recommended?
4. Do I need to buy a copy stand? Which one is recommended? (I can spend more to get a compact high quality one)
5. Can I use a Nikon ES-2 type of adapter with non-Nikon system? Is this sort of set-up better/worse than using a copy stand?

I am fairly comfortable with the scanning process itself -- but looking to create a compact and ergonomic setup. Hence, would prefer to avoid bulky contraptions required in some of the videos I have seen online.