Cameras in the Cold (getting stuck up)

katcons

katcons

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Hello, everyone.:) I was wondering if you have experienced any cold-related problems when handling your all metal-gear?

I remember a friend telling me that his Retina IIc shutter got stuck while photographing on top of a mountain in negative temperature.

This Canon video got me thinking about it, but it's a DSLR, so it would be definitely different... I'm also wondering if in real life DSLRs can perform like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_Srg1xZLNY

Just got me really, really curious. I rarely hear about it here, being a tropical country, but I'd appreciate your thoughts/ experiences on it. :cool: Thanks!
 
I never personally had a problem many years ago in Korea with a Yashica TL Super, Fujica ST 901, nor a Mamiya Super Press 23. Temperatures outside when I was using those probably weren't lower than in the 20's F.

The magazines used to have the occassional article about much colder climes and pros getting their cameras (and maybe lenses too) serviced to remove/change the lubricants to something that worked better in cold climes, such as climbing Everest, or to one of the poles.
 
I once was shooting at a high altitude in very cold temperatures with a group, they all had Canon and Nikon DSLR's, the best one there was a Canon 1DS Mk2. I was using a Yashica GSN. All of their cameras froze up there, battery problems, whatever. Mine kept snapping away without having to take any precautions about keeping it warm or what not.
 
Over the last 31 years I've shot with FE, FE-2, F2, FA, FM, SP and S3 bodies in everything from -40 Celsius to +38 Celsius without any problems.
 
Extreme cold kills batteries in short order so I never trust a battery defendant camera in those situations. I have had an FE2 die at -30C when the battery gave out. I have also had a Canon P have shutter problems in not so cold weather cured by having a CLA. No experience with DSLRs in extreme cold but suspect they would be even more susceptible to battery related problems. The camera has to be in top condition and batteries changed out frequently to keep going. To me the linked video does not indicate extreme cold. Believe me at -30 you don't go around hatless, gloveless and with your jacket open.

Bob
 
I've snapped a couple of small levers on my Rolleicord in cold winter days. My Canon P is pretty unusable in very cold days because the metal camera body gets so cold that it's unpleasant to keep it pressed to my cheek. And its viewfinder gets foggy too. I've had jammed lenses and shutters in cold as well. Basically everything which may have a drop of oil or layer of grease on it might jam.

I keep saying that my Nikon FM2n is my "winter camera" because it works flawlessly in all weather conditions :)
 
I've shot battery dependent cameras in the Russian winter at around -30°C (around -20°F for you non-metric types) for extended periods. Operating the camera with gloves and changing film that goes all brittle and sharp was a bigger problem.

U4985I1253454543.SEQ.0.jpg


(Kazan, January 2004.)

If I had to do that with a DSLR now, I'd try to keep the batteries close to my body, build a battery-shaped dummy for the camera's battery slot and run a cable to my body.
 
In my experience up here in Minnesota, anything with a leaf shutter starts to get sluggish fairly quickly on a cold day, even with keeping it inside my jacket (which is really hard to do with a Koni-Omega). I've had much better luck with focal plane shutters.

Reid
 
I had a strange issue with my Rolleiflex 6002. I started a roll of film at the base of Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain. All of the shots from the mountain base were fine but the 6 or 7 shots from the peak did not come out at all, instead all I received were blank squares. I'm not sure if it was the cold, the altitude, or whether it was the shutter or mirror that failed to work.
 
Sikario said:
I had a strange issue with my Rolleiflex 6002. I started a roll of film at the base of Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain. All of the shots from the mountain base were fine but the 6 or 7 shots from the peak did not come out at all, instead all I received were blank squares. I'm not sure if it was the cold, the altitude, or whether it was the shutter or mirror that failed to work.
Click to expand...

What was the temperature at the base as opposed to what it was at the peak?

Bob
 
My Canon P ceased to advance in snowy conditions in Hokkaido, Japan.
 
Nikon Bob said:
What was the temperature at the base as opposed to what it was at the peak?

Bob
Click to expand...
Only a difference of a few degrees, both the base and summit were snow covered but it was a bright, sunny day. I should add my Canon 20D did not suffer any problems.
 
Sikario said:
Only a difference of a few degrees, both the base and summit were snow covered but it was a bright, sunny day. I should add my Canon 20D did not suffer any problems.
Click to expand...


If the Rollie worked fine after at normal room temps there could be a good possibility that it just needs a CLA. The Canon P that I had worked fine at room temps when I got it. I took it outside and within the space of half an hour I was getting shutter problems. As the camera got colder outside the shutter got lazy. Got home and warmed it up to room temps and all was well. I sent it out for a CLA to get rid of all the old gummed up lub and dirt and haven't had trouble since. The outside temps were not that cold that caused the problem. I think right around 0c.

Bob
 
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