Can I mix a part of fixer bag only?

ThangNguyen

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Hi,
I have just bought a bag of Kodak fixer (1 gallon). This is the first time I bought Kodak because I used Sprint before. I did not read that this is only remain for 2 months and for sure I cannot use all of it that quick. I would like to know if I can mix a part of it only? Or how should I store the power or mix liquid for longer time?

Thank you for your help!
Thang Nguyen
 
Hi,
I have just bought a bag of Kodak fixer (1 gallon). This is the first time I bought Kodak because I used Sprint before. I did not read that this is only remain for 2 months and for sure I cannot use all of it that quick. I would like to know if I can mix a part of it only? Or how should I store the power or mix liquid for longer time?

Thank you for your help!
Thang Nguyen

If you are able to measure the ratio of fixer and water correctly, you can set up whatever amount you need and is practical in use.
You just need to make sure you reseal the remaing part perfectly, otherwise all the effort is wasted and you will find a lump or gooey mass the next time you want to prepare it again.
 
I am not sure you can. There are different ingredients in most of what Kodak packaged and you would need to be sure that you were getting the right proportions of everything in each half. The better practice would be to mix it all, but store in a series of small bottles (e.g. 1 liter). In full stoppered glass bottles the solution should keep a good long while.

Ben
 
Do as Ben said. Next time, buy Kodak liquid fixer. You mix that as you need it.
I have found that Kodak Professional Liquid Fixer mixed according to directions and stored in 2 half gallon containers lasts for a year or longer or until I have fixed enough film to exhaust it.

Wayne
 
The distribution of different chemicals in a powdered mix is not uniform, so you cannot be assured of getting the proper ratio of each if you mix a partial batch.
 
I am not sure you can. There are different ingredients in most of what Kodak packaged and you would need to be sure that you were getting the right proportions of everything in each half. The better practice would be to mix it all, but store in a series of small bottles (e.g. 1 liter). In full stoppered glass bottles the solution should keep a good long while.

Ben

The distribution of different chemicals in a powdered mix is not uniform, so you cannot be assured of getting the proper ratio of each if you mix a partial batch.

What these guys say is correct. However, as long as you stir the mixture before taking you aliquot, it'll still work. Fixer is not that sensitive to the exact ratio of ingredients.

I would not recommend mixing developer that way though, as the amounts of each ingredient are more critical in the developer. But all fixer has to do is dissolve the undeveloped silver salt. Typically you fix for twice as long as it takes to do that. When you make your mixture, test it on a piece of undeveloped film and see how long it takes for the film to turn clear. Fix for twice as long as that takes.
 
Kodak as well as other fixers is mostly >80% thiosulfat (either ammonium or sodium). Both of them could be used alone for the fixing. Only don't forget to check the "cleaning" time of the stock after you mixed part of the powder.
And as Chris said, don't extrapolate this practice to developers :)
Good luck!
 
According to the markings on my Fixer Bottle I mixed this gallon on 10-18-2011 and have Fixed 6 rolls of 35mm, 37 rolls of 120 & 8 sheets of 4x5 film.
It's still working just fine with about 10 minutes to fix film...
The bottle is stored in a closet so even with a somewhat clear bottle it's kept in the dark unless it's being used...
This bottle gets used for film only (mixed from powder) when printing I'll use Fixer (liquid concentrate) and use it one time...(I might print two days in a row) Then discard it...

Photo1152.jpg
 
I would not recommend mixing developer that way though, as the amounts of each ingredient are more critical in the developer..

Ooops - this is exactly what I did with a large packet of D76 last year, as I don't have enough bottles to store 5L of solution. Could this explain why I've been a little disappointed with the contrast and definition for all of the films that I've developed using the resultant mixture?
 
Yes, indeed. The mixture of the components in the developers is more complicated than with fixers. And the quantity of the development agents inside this mixture is quite small. When you splitting the powder the probability to receive the right amount of this development agents with the rigth propotion with other components in the part is even smoller:)

Cheers, Roman

Ooops - this is exactly what I did with a large packet of D76 last year, as I don't have enough bottles to store 5L of solution. Could this explain why I've been a little disappointed with the contrast and definition for all of the films that I've developed using the resultant mixture?
 
Yes, indeed. The mixture of the components in the developers is more complicated than with fixers. And the quantity of the development agents inside this mixture is quite small. When you splitting the powder the probability to receive the right amount of this development agents with the rigth propotion with other components in the part is even smoller:)

Cheers, Roman

:bang:
is it worth re-mixing the solution with the remaining powder or should I just consign this to the bin and start again?
 
Depends how much powder still remains and what is the purpose :) If you gonna make some tests with not very valubale films - it's ok to remix and play with the times. The outcome could be ok but not garanteed. if you want to be on the safe side with garanteed results - I would recommend to start with the new one...
 
:bang:
is it worth re-mixing the solution with the remaining powder or should I just consign this to the bin and start again?

You can use it and it will likely develop film, but it's exact behavior will vary from batch to batch. And variability is the enemy of consistency.

Now whether you use inconsistency in your photography, is a matter of taste. Some folks use a holga type camera, or guess the exposure. Those folks may actually benefit from an unpredictable developer.
 
I think I'm going to scratch this mix and start again. The results made me think that the results from my 'new' Summicron 50mm F2 were very poor compared with an FD 50mm F1.4.
Thanks for all of the information - I'd got to a point where I thought I'd make a BIG mistake sinking money into Leica gear.

Having said that, it didn't stop me just buying an M2 and 50mm F2.8 Elmar....
 
"Good grief, Charlie Brown."
Film chemicals are the least expensive part of the total process. They are also the most important part when it comes to translating what you saw into what you can see.
Don't pinch pennies on chemistry.
The Canon 50/1.4 S.S.C. just might be better than a Summicron 50/2.0. I own both. They are very close.

Wayne
 
Film chemicals are the least expensive part of the total process. They are also the most important part when it comes to tranlating what you saw into what you can see.
Don't pinch pennies on chemistry.
Wayne

You are right of course. I just have a deeply ingrained belief (a legacy from my parents): 'waste not, want not...'
 
You are right of course. I just have a deeply ingrained belief (a legacy from my parents): 'waste not, want not...'

Think of it as drain cleaner (it's alkaline after all) and mix up new developer. Using inconsistent developer is wasting film shots, which are a much more valuable commodity.
 
You are right of course. I just have a deeply ingrained belief (a legacy from my parents): 'waste not, want not...'

I watched my parents live by that standard. They would always end up spending more money buying junk that never lasted.

Why not try highly concentrated liquid chemicals that you mix, use & discard each time you develop? HC-110, Pyrocat, & Rodinal are a few developers that fall into that category.

Wayne
 
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