Can I use TRI-X on the beach?

[Adam14]

When I first got my R3A last year I also bought quite a few boxes of TRI-X.
I have not used the camera for quite a while so still have them.
We are heading for a beach type vacation and would appreciate advice as to whether or not 400 ASA will work satisfactorily or should I get some 200 or even 100 film.
Also, I am still confused about when I read that there are times with 400 film,that you can set the camera to say,200. Something about protecting the shadows. If that could be explained to me I would very much appreciate it.
Adam

 

[mbohara]

You'll be able to shoot though you'll be pegged at F11 and up. I'd invest in some Acros 100, my other favorite.

 

[Adam14]

Thanks very much for your helpful reply!
Adam

 

[Mackinaw]

I personally would use a much slower film if I was taking pictures in an area as bright as a beach. An ASA 100 film is probably a better choice. Or, you could use Tri-X along with a good neutral density filter.

Jim B.

 

[jawarden]

You'll be able to use friendlier f-stops if you use a 100 speed film. Alternatively you could get a ND filter if you would like to use Tri-X and shoot at f8 or larger.

 

[Bingley]

Since you're shooting Tri-X I assume you're also developing it yourself. You can safely shoot Tri-X at iso 200 and 250 with an appropriate adjustment to development time. For example, I've shot Tri-X at 250 and developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 11 mins. and gotten good results. Check out the sticky in the film developing forum "How Charjohncarter Does It" which contains great advice on developing Tri-X and TMax films shot at approx. half the box speed iso. Read what he says about the long tonal range of these films when "pulled" and developed with gentle and infrequent agitation.

One other option for you to consider is: get a yellow filter. The filter factor for a standard yellow filter (K2?) is about one stop. Thus, you'd set the camera's meter to 200 or 250 with the filter on the lens, but develop the film (or have the film developed at a lab) as though it were shot at 400. Should work fine.

 

[rpsawin]

Sorry for this but I just have to...

Yes, but be careful of the grain.

Again, I apologize.

Bob

 

[Adam14]

Thanks very much for the helpful replies!
No,I don't do my own developing yet.
I will watch out for the grain 😉
Cheers,
Adam

 

[gns]

Actually, tri-x is perfect. Shoot it at 200 and dev in D76 1:1 for about 7 minutes. You can even go to 100, cutting the dev time another 20% or so if the results are still too contrasty. Using a slower film won't help you tame the contrast. Also, grain will be smaller than normally processed tri-x because of the shorter dev time.

Gary

 

[charjohncarter]

TriX at 250 EI is f/11 at 1/1000 for a true bright beach so not much DoF gain there. And it is difficult to switch films if you've started a roll. So the ND filter idea is a good one. Plus with a ND filter you can use it to also use a fill flash (which is really helpful) at the bright beach. That will bring your f/11 to 1/125 (so the FP shutter will be synched) with a 3 stop filter, you still have to to have a powerful flash to beat that sunglasses on your lens (manual f/16-22).

 

[Freakscene]

Yes.

Marty

 

[Pablito]

If you like Tri-X, you'll like Tri-X at the beach.

Amazing this fad for shallow depth of field.

 

[Lflex]

I am a strong beliver of "keep it simple". On the beach there is a lot of sky and skin - both (at least if the skin is pinkish uneven like mine) will benefit from an orange or red filter and will give you a little more space to adjust shutter and aperture.
Then you don't have to think about push or pull or if you can have to change film on a rainy day or in the afternoon...

 

[excellent]

I agree with the comments about an ND filter. Trix looks great everywhere and having the filters will make it useable almost everywhere.

 

[bigeye]

Actually, tri-x is perfect. Shoot it at 200 and dev in D76 1:1 for about 7 minutes. You can even go to 100, cutting the dev time another 20% or so if the results are still too contrasty. Using a slower film won't help you tame the contrast. Also, grain will be smaller than normally processed tri-x because of the shorter dev time.

Gary

I've had very good results pulling Tri-X 2 stops (shoot @ 100) for very high contrast days. But, I'd just use a 3 stop ND filter (and 1 film), if I could plan ahead.

-Charlie

 

[Pherdinand]

well,that depends a lot on the beach.
Dutch beaches, for instance, are at the moment too dark even for tri-x 😀

PS; yes you can pull tri-x i.e. expose it at 200 and develop a bit shorter.

 

[Nokton48]

Add a yellow, orange, or red filter. I tend to shoot Tri-X at EI 250 anyway.

 

[xxloverxx]

Take a polariser.

Tri-X is safe for pretty much everything, and you never know when it's going to go overcast. Also depends on what exactly you're shooting. It's not worth learning a new film just for one vacation, especially just before one. Take whatever you're really comfortable with.

 

[Adam14]

Thanks so much to all for the great info!
Very much appreciated and thanks Marty for the great photos!
Cheers,
Adam

 

[whitecat]

I second the orange filter idea.