Canon 5D: Black and White quality?

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Hello, I am saving for a Canon 5D to ad to my small collection of film cameras. I will mainly use it for color, but was wondering how its black and white files look? How does the grain/noise look at higher ISOs? I like the look of grain but I dont want messy looking digital noise...
Thanks,

-S.
 
Shoot in color... convert in Editing Software

Shoot in color... convert in Editing Software

There is far more control over things like grain and tonality for black and white conversions by converting digital color images in software.

Sorry, can't tell you how the Canon 5D shoots in black and white because I don't use it that way. I haven't shot any digital camera in B/W mode since moving from Point and Shoots.

As a professional told me, shooting digital in black and white makes absolutely no sense. Why bring home an image that is compromised by the camera. There is so much you can to converting to and editing B/W with all the color information left in the file.

Others may be able to answer your question, but my personal opinion is "don't use the camera to create monochrome images". You won't have nearly as much latitude in Post Processing.

Considering your choice of the 5D, I personally think at the prices a nice 5D body sells for ($1000-1200), it is one of the best values in entry to Full Frame digital. The reviews have been incredible for that camera since it came out, and many are only now replacing them since the MkII 5D came out. I wouldn't be surprised to find the MkII not as ultimately desirable, except for those who truly need the increased resolution, for printing larger prints. I do not regret for a moment ending up with the Canon 5D MkI.

It would be a shame to see you pass on the 5D because of the OOC B/W, since I think that's an extremely short sighted approach to digital B/W. (again, personal observation)
 
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5d iso400

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5d iso1600

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5d iso400



I love my 5d, and once you learn how to post process well you can get really good black and white results with it. As has been said, it's better to shoot RAW and then convert to black and white later, rather than shooting in BW straight out of the camera - just more control for the photographer. All above were taken with the 35mm 1.4L. Note the iso1600 one - you can work up to 3200 and even push a stop further (6400) without any worries.
 
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By the way - my basic B&W workflow is to tweak the tone curve for more contrast, sharpen (a lot) and just do some minor selective dodging and burning - about the same as a film print workflow. No noise reduction as even at 1600-3200iso the noise is tight and grainy, and adds to the feel of sharpness/texture in the print. I actually like it. Sometimes I even add grain to get more perceived sharpness/grit.
 
I use Exposure 2 for B&W conversion with my 5D's and 5DII's. The 5D is a great bargain in digital cameras now. It hit a real "sweet spot" in digital evolution. You'll enjoy it.
 
Don't use the in-camera-conversion. I think the Jpg-engine especially of a Canon camera is a weak point. When you shoot RAW you have a lot of options for conversion. You can buy a plug in for photoshop or photoshop elements like silver efex pro (nik software) or exposure (alien skin). But even the built in "convert to b/w" function of photoshop/elements gives good result and has some options to play with.
 
It's in this interview: http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/08/06/shoptalk-5/

Q: Your photographs are absolutely beautiful and arresting. Just wondering what camera you’re using, particularly what you used to shoot the photo of the older gentleman reading through his ledger book? Again, thanks for the gorgeous, illuminating photographs. — Sarah A

A: Sarah, Thanks for your kind note. I am using a Canon 5D set on monochromatic mode. The majority of the images are made with a 35-millimeter and a 50-millimeter lens.
Click to expand...

martin
 
Just want to add this too, from that same page of interviews with Todd Heisler:

The images are all shot digitally and toned in black and white. I set the camera to the monochrome mode, which gives me a sense of the environments and helps me think in black and white. The post-processing is very basic: burning, dodging and added contrast with levels and curves. I usually spend no more than five to 10 minutes toning a photograph unless it’s very underexposed. I find that anything more is generally an indication that it’s probably not that great a photo — and therefore not worth the time.
Click to expand...
 
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Re:

Re:

There is no such thing as "Canon 5D Black and White quality" (I am not trying to be rude here 🙂 )

I mean, you should shoot in colour and then use software like NikSoftware SilverEfex Pro or AlienSkin Exposure 2, where you can

a.) Convert your files to B/W
b.) Use the various film simulating templates and adjust them how you like

Why you should shoot in colour ? Because - if you shoot in colour, then you can use the various farb filters - in Photoshop, you can even select for example the sky and selectively apply an orange filter (for dramatic skies).

What I wanted to say: Canon 5D is an amazing camera and there are 1000 possibilities how you can adjust your files. The camera is usable up to ISO 1600, in B/W even up to ISO 3200 (depending on the image/print size).

Should you have any other questions (reg. the software), really feel free to ask me:
mag.martin.mintal@gmail.com

This is an ISO 3200 file:
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4304302931_c156c359e9_b.jpg


4305048412_094897de60_b.jpg


4304257551_a294c95bd5_b.jpg


4305003102_aec54464fc_b.jpg


4304991454_b87cbb2d43_b.jpg
 
With the except of the 4th images which was taken at ISO 1250 these were all shot at 1600 or 3200
http://www.mcaryphoto.net/5DHighISO/index.html
Note work safe.
Work flow is fairly simple and strait forward and all done in Lightroom 2.something
  1. Convert to Grayscale, and adjust WB as desired
  2. Adjust white and black clipping as needed
  3. Adjust Tone Curve
  4. Tweak Grayscale mixer (as needed)
  5. Tweak Sharpening as (needed)
  6. Apply Clarity as need/desired.
Note Steps are not always preformed in the exact order listed above.
 
Another thought; If I'd convert to black and white later in software rather than in camera I'd use the Black and White Adjustment layer Photoshop offers. It's a brilliant way to tweak separate color channels.

Also check out Chris Orwigs Lightroom Tutorial on Black and White conversion, it's worth watching his Lynda.com-Videos, too, by the way. You don't have to like him or his photography, but his teaching style and what he teaches I think is quite interesting.

martin
 
martin s said:
Another thought; If I'd convert to black and white later in software rather than in camera I'd use the Black and White Adjustment layer Photoshop offers. It's a brilliant way to tweak separate color channels.
Click to expand...

You can also do that in lightroom, because when you ask it to "convert to black and white" it doesn't actually do it to the real file, just a preview - so when you then make color channel adjustments it still adjusts them as if it was a color file, but with a BW layer on it.
 
When I had a Canon, I rather enjoyed the results I was getting out of the in-camera B&W Jpegs. The Nikons...not so much.

But, I would agree with others and shoot color. You are then in control of the conversion. If you just have to have a B&W shot on the back of the camera, shoot RAW+JPEG and set the camera into b&w mode. Your JPEGs will be black and white, while your RAW stays in color. At least that's what it was for my XT
 
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