pagpow
Well-known
Don't know where in Asia. My limited experience in China in early 90s was a two stop loss due to pollution during the day, making 400 a good flexible speed. Agree with statements that choice of mode depends on circumstances. Nevertheless, despite Canon hype for shutter priority, find that Av gives best control -- selected dof, plus highest possible shutter speed after that choice. Need to check camera set speed for aperture choice however to avoid camera motion blur in marginal light. Agree also that match needle allowed for very intuitive control.
MOST OF ALL, agree you should not count on learning camera while on a trip.
Luck.
Giorgio
MOST OF ALL, agree you should not count on learning camera while on a trip.
Luck.
Giorgio
mfunnell
Shaken, so blurred
The AE-1 Program has a shutter priority mode, a program mode and manual mode.What's the AE-1p like? it has no aperture priority mode, right? Does the metering change along with the aperture ring movement? I've never used one, but might consider it since I have two FD lenses
Mine is a real beater - before my time it obviously suffered a serious knock which has bent the rewind lever and shaft so it's somewhat off-kilter. Nonetheless, the camera continues to work correctly, albeit with rather rough film advance and rewind. It's obviously a tough and well-constructed thing.
But I don't use mine all that much. Partly because of said roughness, but mostly because I don't much like shutter-priority auto. When I have used it, it's mostly been in manual mode where I set the aperture (on the lens ring) to what I want, then adjust the shutter speed until the meter reading shows the aperture I've selected (or a stop or so over or under if that's what I want). I'd prefer the meter to show shutter speed rather than aperture, and I'd prefer Av mode over Tv mode - but that's not on offer with this camera.
When I do use it in auto, I do so in program mode (and have to remind myself to set the aperture ring to the auto position as well as the shutter dial). If I don't set the aperture ring to the auto position (but do set the shutter to auto) then program mode (which the camera thinks it's in) will set the shutter speed based on what it "thinks" the aperture will be, but the actual aperture used is what's set on the lens. This is not a great way to achieve correct exposure. Which is why I tend to use my A-1 or New F-1.
...Mike
grapejohnson
Well-known
If you want a body just for the FD lenses and you shoot manual a lot, the question is how much you want to invest. A good choice pricewise and a solid camera is the old mechanical FTb (get one modified for modern batteries), which has old school match-needle metering. The high-end choice would be a new F-1 or a T90, depending on whether you want your cameras mechanical or powerful.
The "new F-1" is giving me GAS
must... not... buy one... yet...
by the way, Dan1984
1/125th and up should do the trick if you want to stay on TV mode, depends on the lighting though.Any ideas on what sort of speed I should shoot at for general street scenes and markets etc to get a sharp image with no real motion blur?
wakarimasen
Well-known
The F1N is quite a contradictory camera. Compared with the multi-talented T90, it is rather simplistic and requires all sorts of add-ons and fiddling about to provide the same functionality. In fact the same could be said when comparing it to the A1. However the F1N, is one of the few Canon cameras that I own that has that certain undefinable quality that makes it extremely satisfying to use. It's heavy (in a solid and comforting sort of way) and the shutter sounds much nicer than either the T90 or the A1.
If you have FD lenses and don't have an F1N, then I'd advise having a try with one.
Best regards
RoyM
If you have FD lenses and don't have an F1N, then I'd advise having a try with one.
Best regards
RoyM
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