Canon F1 battery question

[Pfreddee]

I'm looking to buy a Canon F1 as a Christmas present to me. Are there any problems with batteries for the F1, such as odd voltages which are no longer available, very expensive batteries, things like that. Also, are there any issues specific to these cameras that it would be good to know about?

Thanks in advance to all who reply.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)

 

[Timmyjoe]

The original F-1 and the F-1n (the second generation) both used the 1.3 volt mercury batteries that are no longer available. The NEW F-1 uses a regular PX28L which is readily available.

Best,
-Tim

 

[pagpow]

Stephen,

You might want to look at this thread (and many other similar ones) for a discussion of the battery workarounds for the earlier two models.

Giorgio

 

[sc_rufctr]

Stephen,

You might want to look at this thread (and many other similar ones) for a discussion of the battery workarounds for the earlier two models.

Giorgio

What thread?

 

[nobbylon]

For older 1.3V cameras like my Leicaflex I use adapters that reduce the voltage of 1.55 sr44's. I've never had any issue with them.
Everything you need to know is here,

http://www.stutterheim.org/rolleigraphy/download/batt-adapt-US.pdf

 

[Wulfthari]

I run all my old cameras that supposedly needs mercury 1.3 V batteries with modern 1.5V replacements without adapters and never had metering problems...I think this "problem" is dramatized.

 

[nobbylon]

I run all my old cameras that supposedly needs mercury 1.3 V batteries with modern 1.5V replacements without adapters and never had metering problems...I think this "problem" is dramatized.

Perhaps read the article I linked?
Depends on camera, film, conditions etc.
if your pic taking combo of the above doesn't need specific requirements then you're in luck!

 

[raid]

The F1 and the F1n are fully me hanical, and the batteries sre used only fir the meter. The F1N needs a battery for full use of camera functions. Half the speeds are mechanical.

 

[Wulfthari]

Perhaps read the article I linked?
Depends on camera, film, conditions etc.
if your pic taking combo of the above doesn't need specific requirements then you're in luck!

To be honest I didn't read the article you linked, but I read the lightmeter of my cameras and I see the results when printed.

So, all my Spotmatics (three) plus all my Soviet cameras (including two Zenit 19 that take two px625 each), plus my Canon 7S and Leica M5...hell of a luck!😱

 

[nobbylon]

To be honest I didn't read the article you linked, but I read the lightmeter of my cameras and I see the results when printed.

So, all my Spotmatics (three) plus all my Soviet cameras (including two Zenit 19 that take two px625 each), plus my Canon 7S and Leica M5...hell of a luck!😱

Don't know about the others but the Pentax's can use any battery due to circuitry And give accurate meter readings.

 

[Mackinaw]

I run all my old cameras that supposedly needs mercury 1.3 V batteries with modern 1.5V replacements without adapters and never had metering problems...I think this "problem" is dramatized.

If you're shooting print film (either color or B&W) the higher voltage of the alkaline battery may not matter much. The great exposure latitude of any print film will make up for any exposure error. If you shoot slide film, expect greatly over-exposed or under-exposed slides (will change as the alkaline battery ages). The narrow exposure latitude of any E-6 film can't deal with the differing voltage of an alkaline battery.

Jim B.

 

[FrankS]

The laws of physics are pretty firm.

Some cameras like Spotmatics have bridge circuits where the battery voltage is not critical. Other cameras have meters that require a certain constant voltage for proper meter function.

As said, neg film is more tolerant of exposure error than slide film. This is where the meter battery problem will be most evident.

 

[Dwig]

There are two types of simple electrical meters based on CDS or Cds cells and a battery.

• Some work by measuring the resistance of the meter cell, which varies with the amount of light. These are very sensitive to the battery voltage.
  
• Others work by comparing the meter cell's resistance with a second resistor using a bridge circuit. The second resistor is mechanically coupled to one or more of the camera's exposure controls, f/stop and/or shutter speed. These can be rather insensitive to the battery voltage.

 

[pagpow]

Sorry -- here's the link I mentioned and forgot to post.

http://photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00bR6m?start=0

 

[FrankS]

Sorry -- here's the link I mentioned and forgot to post.

http://photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00bR6m?start=0

Thanks for the link!

 

[Wulfthari]

The laws of physics are pretty firm.

Some cameras like Spotmatics have bridge circuits where the battery voltage is not critical. Other cameras have meters that require a certain constant voltage for proper meter function.

As said, neg film is more tolerant of exposure error than slide film. This is where the meter battery problem will be most evident.

The pity is that laws of physics don't take into account what we engineers call "tolerances", that's the reason why a physicist should never get an engineering position.

When I bought the M5 I read all the info I could find on the subject you can find on the net, but finally I decided the only sane thing was to shoot a test film and see which impact the "modern" battery had. And I found none.

Sure, I used my usual color negative film (with b&w usually I don't even bother metering and I use the sunny16 rule, 95% of the times I got the exposure right) because where I live I can't find anybody who develops E-6, but once I shot a roll of Velvia with my Spottie F and everything was ok...alright people say that Pentax in the 60s developed the magic exposure circuit which works with every voltage, to be honest I don't believe that but even if they did the Soviets for sure did not.

Having said that let's face that it's quite likely every 30 years old camera that I worth of something (Canon F-1 included) had at least a CLA and if done properly it also includes a light meter adjustment, so even if there might be a problem with the voltage some tech has already solved it.

In conclusion my suggestion is go for the F-1, shoot a test film and see the results..simple as that. More shooting less paranoia!😀

 

[FrankS]

The pity is that laws of physics don't take into account what we engineers call "tolerances", that's the reason why a physicist should never get an engineering position.

When I bought the M5 I read all the info I could find on the subject you can find on the net, but finally I decided the only sane thing was to shoot a test film and see which impact the "modern" battery had. And I found none.

Sure, I used my usual color negative film (with b&w usually I don't even bother metering and I use the sunny16 rule, 95% of the times I got the exposure right) because where I live I can't find anybody who develops E-6, but once I shot a roll of Velvia with my Spottie F and everything was ok...alright people say that Pentax in the 60s developed the magic exposure circuit which works with every voltage, to be honest I don't believe that but even if they did the Soviets for sure did not.

Having said that let's face that it's quite likely every 30 years old camera that I worth of something (Canon F-1 included) had at least a CLA and if done properly it also includes a light meter adjustment, so even if there might be a problem with the voltage some tech has already solved it.

In conclusion my suggestion is go for the F-1, shoot a test film and see the results..simple as that. More shooting less paranoia!😀

It wasn't magic, it was just a particular type of meter circuit.

I'm I big proponent of doing whatever works for you. So yeah, go for it and see!

 

[rlouzan]

Stephen,

The original F1/F-1n is built like a tank, the only downsides are:

1) No hot shoe
2) Somewhat fragile built in needle meter.

Make sure the body had a recent CLA, shutter bounce is somewhat a common problem.
Use a digital incident/reflected handheld meter.

Regards,
Robert

 

[FrankS]

Stephen,

The original F1/F-1n is built like a tank, the only downsides are:

1) No hot shoe
2) Somewhat fragile built in needle meter.

Make sure the body had a recent CLA, shutter bounce is somewhat a common problem.
Use a digital incident/reflected handheld meter.

Regards,
Robert

That's just what I do with mine.

 

[oltimer]

I use the 675 hearing aid battery, and use #18 copper wire around the outside diameter to keep it snug in the holder for my "older" original F1. Hearing aid batteries are dirt cheap.