Canon Model 7, Newbie Advice? Lenses?

[former member]

The Voigtlander 50mm F1.5 Nokton in LTM and 35/1.7 Ultron in LTM focus to 0.9m. I own both. The J-3+ is the only LTM I am aware of that maintains RF coupling to 0.7m, and that is due to the threads having a cut-out. The Nikkor lenses focus closer, but lose RF coupling. You can file the threads down for the RF follower to get to 0.65m.

One RFF member modified the LTM 50/1.5 Nokton to focus closer, this required internal modifications to be made. This same type of Mod can be done for the Canon lenses.

 

[Coldkennels]

The J-3+ is the only LTM I am aware of that maintains RF coupling to 0.7m, and that is due to the threads having a cut-out.

The VC 28/3.5 Color Skopar focuses with RF coupling all the way to 0.7m - I just checked with a Canon 7.

The 21mm version obviously focuses a bit closer - down to 0.5m - and it's tough to tell exactly where it loses coupling on the Canon 7. My gut says it's just within 0.7m, but I can't get a precise measurement.

Both have the cut-out in the thread you mentioned with the J3+. I assume this is the same design, anyway.



(21mm in black at infinity, 28mm in chrome at 0.7m)

I always thought it was odd that Canon RFs could focus down to 0.7m or 0.8m, but none of its lenses could.

I should also probably add, while I'm talking about these CV lenses, that I think most LTM bodies can focus down to 0.8m when given a lens that supports that. My Leicas and Leotaxes all drop off around that mark, anyway.

 

[former member]

Learn something new every day!

I modified a KMZ J-3 for close focus, took out an internal stop and filed the threads. The single-Helical J-8, modified one for 0.65m.

 

[das]

I stand corrected on the fact that some VC M39 lenses don't go down to at least 0.7m. So, does that cut out technique work for all or most M39 lenses that hit the wall at 1.00m or 0.9m? I guess the focus stop would also have to be moved?

 

[JSteed#2]

Back to basics and entirely subjective view of Canon LTM's:
The 50 1.8 is excellent
The 50 1.4 is better than the 1.8 in my experience
The 35 2.0 is a stunner...world class

 

[former member]

I stand corrected on the fact that some VC M39 lenses don't go down to at least 0.7m. So, does that cut out technique work for all or most M39 lenses that hit the wall at 1.00m or 0.9m? I guess the focus stop would also have to be moved?

The internal stops have to be removed, or slots machined out.

The single-helical J-8 is an exception to the rule: you can purposely misthread the helical so that the roles of the close-stop and infinity stop are reversed. Then, re-index the focus scale and aperture, last step- file the threads down.

The Jupiter-8, at normal 0.9, and modified 0.65m.


I did one like this, just to see if possible. Sold it cheap to a forum member that really, really wanted it.

 

[Scrambler]

@rfPNW , you have had good advice offered, now you need to do your own testing to see what actually works for you.

First, try the lens you have. Does the picture look like what you want? If it does, all is well.

Remember that changing the film is an option, changing "pixel" size, colour sensitivity and so on. More testing until you are pleased.

All lenses actually work better stopped down a little. An F1.2 at F8 will be quite like an F1.4 or F1.8, other things being equal. I wouldn't rush to buy a new lens if I was in your shoes, I'd just be appropriately careful carrying it about.

I quite like lenses with central clarity that does not carry to the edge. But you may prefer lenses crisp to the border. Working out these sorts of preferences will help you decide what lenses to consider next. Don't buy simply on price. I like the Jupiter 12 because of it's off-centre imprecision. But if you like crisp edges, it's a complete waste of money (even if you do find one of the slim variants).

What angle of view do you prefer? Are you a phone camera wide photographer? Do you tolerate digital grain to zoom in? Look at photos you have taken on digital, then check the lens settings and do some math. What lens for the 35mm camera will most likely suit? "Normal" lens range extends from 35mm to 55mm: your preference might be in this, or wider, or longer.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Hi, new-ish member here. First post.

I've been "tinkering" for a few years with a Contax IIb, but purely through instinct and casual skill development. Recently I decided I wanted to get more serious about the art/craft and wanted to try a RF. I was recently lucky enough to come across a Canon 7 in excellent condition. It came with a 135 lens and the kinda-rare/desirable 50mm f1.2. As I load this up and start testing it, I have a couple newbie questions.

First, wondering if I actually need the 50/1.2 lens? Or for my casual, beginner-intermediate skills I'd be better off just trying to swap into 1.4 or 1.8?

Second, wondering what "other" lens range ya'll might suggest I add as I learn more? I tend to do a good bit of outdoor/wilderness photography, so I'd love to try a wide angle lens. Any recs in that canon ltm line that'd be better than others?

Lastly, and this is one I guess for Canon 7 users-- I've given the camera a good once over and all seems great, except I can't for the life of me figure out how to change the viewfinder window selector? This was actually a big reason I sought this model out, for the integrated viewfinder framing option. It's a little doll on the top left, but mine seems perpetually stuck on the 50mm, which is fine for now. But I'd love to try the 135 lens in this test roll, and curious what I am missing about changing that setting?

Many thanks for any wisdom, advice, guidance you might be willing to share!

Film and rangefinder? You don't need both. Canon 7 and 50 1.2 - no need. With one exception, you really like to haul the weight. 🙂

 

[aw614]

The Voigtlander 50mm F1.5 Nokton in LTM and 35/1.7 Ultron in LTM focus to 0.9m. I own both. The J-3+ is the only LTM I am aware of that maintains RF coupling to 0.7m, and that is due to the threads having a cut-out. The Nikkor lenses focus closer, but lose RF coupling. You can file the threads down for the RF follower to get to 0.65m.

One RFF member modified the LTM 50/1.5 Nokton to focus closer, this required internal modifications to be made. This same type of Mod can be done for the Canon lenses.

The Nikon 50mm F2 when mounted on my Zorki 1 can maintain coupling to around 2 to 2.25 ft via the lens scales, that is normal? Im guessing that is because of the different style follower over the Canons?

Outside of not being able to go past .9m, The Voigtlander 50mm 1.5's large size seems right at home on a Canon 7.

 

[wlewisiii]

The VC 50/1.5 Aspherical Nokton is a really great lens. I actually like it a lot! I'm just really freaking lucky that I own several much better lenses 😀

 

[former member]

The Nikon 50mm F2 when mounted on my Zorki 1 can maintain coupling to around 2 to 2.25 ft via the lens scales, that is normal? Im guessing that is because of the different style follower over the Canons?

Outside of not being able to go past .9m, The Voigtlander 50mm 1.5's large size seems right at home on a Canon 7.

Yes- the "Finger" style cam follower can get inside the Nikkor 5cm F2. The Nikkor has a very thick Cam. However- LTM lenses with a thin cam, such as the Leica Summarit and even Nikkor 5cm F1.4: the finger can slip underneath the Cam and pickup the retaining ring for the rear group. Took me a while to figure out why pictures with the Nikkor 5cm F2 were fine but those from the F1.4 were out of focus on my Zorki 3M. I adjusted the Zoeki for use with Leica mount lenses, as I set all my Jupiters to work with Leica.