Lifting weights for a Canon 7?!?! No need for that. It is taller than the L1 that I picked up, but is the same dimensions otherwise. The two cameras could change the baseplate. Even with the 50mm F0.95 lens it is no heavier than the F2AS with a 55mm F1.2 lens.
NOW My F2S+DS1+MD1+MB1 with its 10 AA batteries and the 300mm F4.5 Nikkor-H; Start curling with the 20lb weights...
NOW My F2S+DS1+MD1+MB1 with its 10 AA batteries and the 300mm F4.5 Nikkor-H; Start curling with the 20lb weights...
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i think the 7 weighs in at a bit more than the p.
i trust i will be able to handle it...
joe
i trust i will be able to handle it...
joe
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
I just now went into the kitchen and plopped my P and 7s (each with an identical neckstrap and body cap) on my trusty electronic postal scale. Tale of the tape:
P = 596g
7s = 667g
Incidentally, while the baseplate size of both cameras looks identical, the P "packs" a bit smaller because the 7/7s has more stickie-outie bits -- it's a bit over 1/4 inch taller and about 3/16 inch thicker, depending on how you measure.
But neither one is a problem to handle. When I'm not fortunate enough to be able to shoot an RF, I'm usually using a Nikon D100 electroplastodigital thingie, with a 70-200 VR Nikkor stovepipe hung off the front -- now THAT'S an arm-bruiser! By comparison, the 7s with 50/0.95 is just pleasantly hefty...
P = 596g
7s = 667g
Incidentally, while the baseplate size of both cameras looks identical, the P "packs" a bit smaller because the 7/7s has more stickie-outie bits -- it's a bit over 1/4 inch taller and about 3/16 inch thicker, depending on how you measure.
But neither one is a problem to handle. When I'm not fortunate enough to be able to shoot an RF, I'm usually using a Nikon D100 electroplastodigital thingie, with a 70-200 VR Nikkor stovepipe hung off the front -- now THAT'S an arm-bruiser! By comparison, the 7s with 50/0.95 is just pleasantly hefty...
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jlw, i don't believe we have met.
i'm joe and welcome to the forum.
i see by the (rf) cameras you use you are a person of good taste and most likely a gentleman as well.
joe
i'm joe and welcome to the forum.
i see by the (rf) cameras you use you are a person of good taste and most likely a gentleman as well.
joe
S
Sonnar
Guest
The Canon P *looks* small, but compared to a Bessa R you see why. Long, but low body leads to the elegant line... where is Bessa R looks pudgy...
Compare the P and a 7 face by face.. no difference that counts... put the selen meter on a P and the P is bigger, and weights the same...
regards Frank
Compare the P and a 7 face by face.. no difference that counts... put the selen meter on a P and the P is bigger, and weights the same...
regards Frank
P
Paul Connet
Guest
Canon 7 size-weight
Canon 7 size-weight
I am still anxiously waiting for my 7 to show up. The seller emailed this morning that he had just posted it via USPS priority mail so it should be here shortly.
My concern over the size-weight is based on an understanding from some source that the body shell of the 7 is the same as the original Canon F1, which I know to be a big camera. My sources show the size of the F1 to be 146.7 x 99.5 x 49.5mm, with a weight of 820g. I am most happy to hear the 7 weighs a good bit less at 667g.
None of this really matters except that if I were to loan it to my friend, (pic below), where would she carry it?
Regards, Paul C.
Canon 7 size-weight
jlw said:
I am still anxiously waiting for my 7 to show up. The seller emailed this morning that he had just posted it via USPS priority mail so it should be here shortly.
My concern over the size-weight is based on an understanding from some source that the body shell of the 7 is the same as the original Canon F1, which I know to be a big camera. My sources show the size of the F1 to be 146.7 x 99.5 x 49.5mm, with a weight of 820g. I am most happy to hear the 7 weighs a good bit less at 667g.
None of this really matters except that if I were to loan it to my friend, (pic below), where would she carry it?
Regards, Paul C.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
Around her neck?
My Canon 7 which I just acquired a few weeks ago uses many of the same components as my Canon FX and Pellix. The wind levers and shutter speed dials look identical. The metal shutter curtains of the Pellix look almost identical to those of the 7.
It is a heavy camera, but pales in comparison to the Kiev 60 and and C330 which I use a lot. I'm sure it is also diminutive in comparison to a Fujica G690.
-Paul
My Canon 7 which I just acquired a few weeks ago uses many of the same components as my Canon FX and Pellix. The wind levers and shutter speed dials look identical. The metal shutter curtains of the Pellix look almost identical to those of the 7.
It is a heavy camera, but pales in comparison to the Kiev 60 and and C330 which I use a lot. I'm sure it is also diminutive in comparison to a Fujica G690.
-Paul
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
She should have a guy around that is happy to carry the camera for here, everywhere she wishes...
taffer
void
Amén.
BY THE WAY. One of the Forbidden lenses for the Canon 7 (and P) is the well known Jupiter-12 35/2.8 FSU lens. It is known to collide with the light baffles on these cameras.
MY experience however, with a '89 version of this lens is that in fact it mounts ok. The rear of the lens barrel/cam doesn't touch the baffles, the edge of the huge rear glass ALMOST touches the top of the film chamber but again does not.
If you ever try that REMEMBER TO SCREW IT IN CAREFULLY, and always looking through the camera back with the shutter opened in bulb setting.
And have your fingers ready for any friction and stop screwing inmediately if so, if in doubt, DON'T do it.
But I thought I had to post my experience, as there are so many variations of these lenses and I always heard it wasn't safe to mount them. There also a JP page showing a P with a J-12 on it.
So I'm afraid I need that P after all to try, bad luck that I must look for a new computer just to be able to play Thief III (Deadly Shadows), a b'day gift from my friends (GREAT friends indeed!)
BY THE WAY. One of the Forbidden lenses for the Canon 7 (and P) is the well known Jupiter-12 35/2.8 FSU lens. It is known to collide with the light baffles on these cameras.
MY experience however, with a '89 version of this lens is that in fact it mounts ok. The rear of the lens barrel/cam doesn't touch the baffles, the edge of the huge rear glass ALMOST touches the top of the film chamber but again does not.
If you ever try that REMEMBER TO SCREW IT IN CAREFULLY, and always looking through the camera back with the shutter opened in bulb setting.
And have your fingers ready for any friction and stop screwing inmediately if so, if in doubt, DON'T do it.
But I thought I had to post my experience, as there are so many variations of these lenses and I always heard it wasn't safe to mount them. There also a JP page showing a P with a J-12 on it.
So I'm afraid I need that P after all to try, bad luck that I must look for a new computer just to be able to play Thief III (Deadly Shadows), a b'day gift from my friends (GREAT friends indeed!
)
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does brian have a p, soon to be for sale?
there are some nice ones out there. i might save my money to buy a really mint one should it come along.
joe
there are some nice ones out there. i might save my money to buy a really mint one should it come along.
joe
Sorry Joe,
I do not have a Canon P, just the L1. And it is not for sale. I was thinking of a "P", but really need to use what I have. That "P" is "P"retty. Let us know what you think of the Canon 7 finder in comparison of the P.
The L1 is a good shooter; I cleaned up some of the finder but will need a manual to "pop the top". I may send it to Essex. Some "separation" that will not clean up, but not too bad. About the same as my user S3 and SP.
I do not have a Canon P, just the L1. And it is not for sale. I was thinking of a "P", but really need to use what I have. That "P" is "P"retty. Let us know what you think of the Canon 7 finder in comparison of the P.
The L1 is a good shooter; I cleaned up some of the finder but will need a manual to "pop the top". I may send it to Essex. Some "separation" that will not clean up, but not too bad. About the same as my user S3 and SP.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
I tried my black barreled J-12 on my Canon 7 right after it arrived. I locked open the shutter (it has a T setting!) and VERY CAREFULLY inserted the J-12. It came very close to the upper baffle, but did not touch it. Once it was screwed in, there was about a credit card thickness separating the two. The back of the rear element looked perilously clos to the focal plane as well.
I noticed that the camera with scratches on the upper baffle right where the lens comes close to it. Someone previously must have tried this as well.
Anyway, I figured that was enough experimenting and I removed the lens without taking any pictures. I already have a good 35/3.5 Summaron which fits without any risks. The J-12 is really reserved for permanant use on a Zorki-1(e).
The black barreled version is newer than the aluminum/chrome version.
-Paul
I noticed that the camera with scratches on the upper baffle right where the lens comes close to it. Someone previously must have tried this as well.
Anyway, I figured that was enough experimenting and I removed the lens without taking any pictures. I already have a good 35/3.5 Summaron which fits without any risks. The J-12 is really reserved for permanant use on a Zorki-1(e).
The black barreled version is newer than the aluminum/chrome version.
-Paul
taffer
void
Yes Paul, that's my experience as well.
Btw, here another one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30027&item=3852515966&rd=1
Oscar
Btw, here another one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30027&item=3852515966&rd=1
Oscar
S
Sonnar
Guest
Finder of Canon P vs. 7 (have both):
7:
- better with 85 or 135mm lenses (frame included)
- better focussing high-speed lenses (longer RFB)
- better sight of 35mm frame with eyeglasses (0,8x minfication)
- frames better visible (projected)
P:
- no minification (1:1), better shooting with two eyes open
- large 100mm frame, no 85/135mm
- with eyeglasses 35mm frame not fully visible at a glance
Both finders are equal in brightness (a bit duller than new Bessa-R) and parallax corrected.
With my "P" the framelines are good visible, but sources say they dissociate over the years
Some people don't like to see the 3 frames permanently in the P viewfinder - I personally prefer this to manual switching. Also the eyestick of the P is smaller than the 7 (VI, V, or L) thanks to the simpler construction. The eyestick of the 7 is metal (scratches eyeglasses) where the P is plastic.
There is no clear "winner is..." Depends on...
cheers, Frank
7:
- better with 85 or 135mm lenses (frame included)
- better focussing high-speed lenses (longer RFB)
- better sight of 35mm frame with eyeglasses (0,8x minfication)
- frames better visible (projected)
P:
- no minification (1:1), better shooting with two eyes open
- large 100mm frame, no 85/135mm
- with eyeglasses 35mm frame not fully visible at a glance
Both finders are equal in brightness (a bit duller than new Bessa-R) and parallax corrected.
With my "P" the framelines are good visible, but sources say they dissociate over the years
Some people don't like to see the 3 frames permanently in the P viewfinder - I personally prefer this to manual switching. Also the eyestick of the P is smaller than the 7 (VI, V, or L) thanks to the simpler construction. The eyestick of the 7 is metal (scratches eyeglasses) where the P is plastic.
There is no clear "winner is..." Depends on...
cheers, Frank