edmyloo
Newbie
Hey guys. I'm pretty new to the world of film photography and range-finder cameras alike. I just got my first few rolls developed and I noticed some really bad light leaks. I'm planning on trying to replace the light seals (although they should already have been since I bought the camera refurbished from a shop). But I did quite a bit of googling and light leaks don't necessarily have to be from bad light seals. Since I just bought the camera refurbished, I figured that the light seals should be good, so I looked a little more closely at the camera and noticed that the top plate on the Canonet doesn't sit exactly flush with the film door and movement between the top plate and the film door can be seen if you use your hands and push them together. Also, the film door latch doesn't seem as tight as it could be either. When you push against the film door, you see movement between the film door and the camera (not sure if it's supposed to be this way or if it doesn't close all the way). So I was wondering whether the light leaks are obviously from bad seals, or if the door could play a part. I've attached photos in a link below of leaky photos and the movement between the door and top plate and the film door latch movement (this one is very small). Thanks a lot for the help everyone!
Leaky Photos, Photos of Camera: http://imgur.com/a/rvOGq
Photos of Open Back of Camera: http://imgur.com/a/EMZyr
PS. Or should I take it to a shop and just have somebody check it out? Reading online, it seems like light leaks can come from anywhere, doors, shutter, bad seals, etc. Does anyone know a good repair shop in the LA or Orange County area that repairs these sort of cameras?
Leaky Photos, Photos of Camera: http://imgur.com/a/rvOGq
Photos of Open Back of Camera: http://imgur.com/a/EMZyr
PS. Or should I take it to a shop and just have somebody check it out? Reading online, it seems like light leaks can come from anywhere, doors, shutter, bad seals, etc. Does anyone know a good repair shop in the LA or Orange County area that repairs these sort of cameras?
oftheherd
Veteran
My first thought on looking at your photos of the camera is that the seals are too thick or were installed incorrectly. It is also possible the door is bent, or both problems exist.
post some pics of the back of the camera with the door open, and of the inside of the door
edmyloo
Newbie
post some pics of the back of the camera with the door open, and of the inside of the door
Here's some pictures of the inside of the camera!
http://imgur.com/a/EMZyr
Thanks a ton guys! Please let me know if you need anything else!
Ranchu
Veteran
The seals were not replaced, that's just some tape they stuck in there. Seals are generally thin black adhesive foam. You will have to peel off all the tape, clean off the residue and replace the seals for real, or have it done for you. Seems like it would cost about 30 bucks to have it done, but I don't know for sure, I always do it myself. There are kits still available from Jon Goodman I think, he's a good guy.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112908
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112908
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html
edmyloo
Newbie
The seals were not replaced, that's just some tape they stuck in there. Seals are generally thin black adhesive foam. You will have to peel off all the tape, clean off the residue and replace the seals for real, or have it done for you. Seems like it would cost about 30 bucks to have it done, but I don't know for sure, I always do it myself. There are kits still available from Jon Goodman I think, he's a good guy.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112908
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Alright! I thought the tape was strange also, but I also own a Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII and there isn't only on the door for that, so I thought the Canonet was the same also. There is a string or some sort of cloth strip that is seen in the body where the door goes into though on both m Minolta and Canonet. So I don't have a light leak in some weird location (like the shutter) or anything right? I just don't have light seals at all?
Ranchu
Veteran
I can't really rule out anything from here, but I don't think so. I've never seen light leaks from a shutter personally, or anything other than bad seals. Sometimes it happens to Leicas because they have a seal in the shutter track that gets loose, but that's an entirely different kind of shutter. You can make sure it's the seals by shooting another roll of film with the cracks of the door taped up (from the outside) with black vinyl electrical tape, it comes off cleanly. Here are Jon's seal replacement instructions, with pics, your camera is listed..
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html
colyn
ישו משיח
Another thing...those poor excuses for seals do not go all the way to the end.
I no longer have his email but you should google John Goodman for a real light seal kit..
I no longer have his email but you should google John Goodman for a real light seal kit..
edmyloo
Newbie
Oh boy. Guess I really got jipped by his "FULL CLA, NEW SEALS" title. I guess I know what the problem is now. Thanks a lot guys. You guys really helped me get this figured out! First post on this forum after lurking for years, and it seems like it was a good choice! 
edmyloo
Newbie
I just checked against a friend who bought the same camera from the same guy and he also has the "tape" light seals in his camera. However, his photos come out leak-free, even with high ASA film. Could this be an indication that something more complicated may be wrong with my camera?
Ranchu
Veteran
Solinar
Analog Preferred
I just checked against a friend who bought the same camera from the same guy and he also has the "tape" light seals in his camera. However, his photos come out leak-free, even with high ASA film. Could this be an indication that something more complicated may be wrong with my camera?
For how much longer will your friends camera be trouble free? Trust me - using tape for light seals is a dodgy repair.
Take the time to do right. Type in "Canonet light seals" into an eBay search field and then get the set that is the most inclusive.
Here is a video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilNct7GjOO0
Jack Conrad
Well-known
Wow. That's the worst light seal cludge I've ever seen. 
Pull all that yarn and tape out and replace it all with some
decent foam.
It looks like there's so much inappropriate crap stuffed in there
that it's causing the door to ride out of its tracks and not seat properly.
Pull all that yarn and tape out and replace it all with some
decent foam.
It looks like there's so much inappropriate crap stuffed in there
that it's causing the door to ride out of its tracks and not seat properly.
Frontman
Well-known
Your camera has no light seals, just plastic tape where the seals should be. The seals are foam rubber material, 1.5mm thick, with an adhesive back, and are about the same size as the tape, though they should run all the way to the edge on the hinge side. Another seal fits into the top channel on the back of the camera, below the top cover. If you can't find the rubber foam material, you can buy black felt, 1.5mm thick, and glue it in place with rubber cement.
sweathog
Well-known
I may have made this up, but I'm sure I've read somewhere that you can use the foam of a mousepad in a pinch as a light seal...
btgc
Veteran
I've used mousepad (for mechanical, not optical) to cut strips for all my late cameras. Oh boys, that means lots of them. Compacts, SLRs, rangefinders. Have shared this on RFF, too. This pads are going away as mechanical mouses are disappearing, and touchpads ruling out any mouses, too.
colyn
ישו משיח
Another material I have used is foamies bought at Wally World.. Just cut to size..
sweathog
Well-known
I've used mousepad (for mechanical, not optical) to cut strips for all my late cameras. Oh boys, that means lots of them. Compacts, SLRs, rangefinders. Have shared this on RFF, too. This pads are going away as mechanical mouses are disappearing, and touchpads ruling out any mouses, too.
I'm glad to see I didn't make it up.
This thread has reminded me I need to change the seals on my QL17 too; they seem to have melted a bit the last time I was out in the middle east.
Gumby
Veteran
Another material I have used is foamies bought at Wally World.. Just cut to size..
Ditto, except I get mine at arts & crafts stores. I've had good success with that material (almost a decade in one situation).
edmyloo
Newbie
:dance::dance:
Alright! I just ordered Jon Goodman asking about a kit. I hope everything turns out okay after I change the seals! Thanks again guys! I didn't realize it was THAT bad of a job.
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