jayfixit
Member
I have a Bell & Howell Dial 35 with a CdS meter. I put a battery in, and the light meter isn't moving. So...disassembly begins. I was able to remove the lens, and get to the CdS cell wires. I attached an Ohmeter, varied the light source, and the Ohmeter moved. So, accuracy aside, the CdS cell is functioning.
What other inputs would there be to the meter? I'm going to try putting a power source (1.5V AA for now) to the meter...when I can get to it. I just need to find a suitable wrench to get the winding knob off on the bottom so the chassis can be removed. My 1/2" impact wrench isn't doing the trick.
Does anyone have a repair manual, or wiring diagram for this model. I'm not ready to spend $20-$25 for a photocopy of a manual, when the camera cost $10.
Thanks!
BTW...I've photographed the disassembly process, so I hope to have a nice write-up when/if this is all done.
What other inputs would there be to the meter? I'm going to try putting a power source (1.5V AA for now) to the meter...when I can get to it. I just need to find a suitable wrench to get the winding knob off on the bottom so the chassis can be removed. My 1/2" impact wrench isn't doing the trick.
Does anyone have a repair manual, or wiring diagram for this model. I'm not ready to spend $20-$25 for a photocopy of a manual, when the camera cost $10.
Thanks!
BTW...I've photographed the disassembly process, so I hope to have a nice write-up when/if this is all done.
Cale Arthur
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Here y'go: Dial 35 Service Manual
You can remove the motor by carefully crafting a 'wrench' out of an old CD that you plan to never listen to again (Eagles' "On The Border", in my case..). You may have to 'rock' it back and forth a bit to get the motor out (also, there are 2 tiny set screws inside the chamber that secure the motor - remove the first one, but not the second!).
One other tip: when you reinstall the motor, make sure that the brass gear at the end is suitably threaded out so as to mate properly with the internal gear. Hope that helps.. let us know how it goes!
--c--
You can remove the motor by carefully crafting a 'wrench' out of an old CD that you plan to never listen to again (Eagles' "On The Border", in my case..). You may have to 'rock' it back and forth a bit to get the motor out (also, there are 2 tiny set screws inside the chamber that secure the motor - remove the first one, but not the second!).
One other tip: when you reinstall the motor, make sure that the brass gear at the end is suitably threaded out so as to mate properly with the internal gear. Hope that helps.. let us know how it goes!
--c--
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jayfixit
Member
Cale--thanks a bunch! Great idea with the CD wrench. I have one that is just itching to become a camera wrench.
jayfixit
Member
Well...light meter is functional now!! There was corrosion preventing a good ground. Now, if I can figure out where these two parts go which fell out during disassembly, I can get this darn thing back together!
Fred the Oyster
Newbie
Many thanks to Cale Arthur for posting the service manual! I've now been able to sort my own Dial 35. I hope it would be useful, and no too OT, to record the problem here in case someone else encounters it.
The meter worked (needle responded to light) and all other functions appeared correct, but the iris was refusing to stop down.
On opening up the camera, I found all the light seal foam to be very deteriorated, either flaking to pieces or reduced to black gunge. These bits of rotten foam can wreak havoc if they get where they shouldn't - which appeared to be the cause of the sticky iris. I removed and disassembled the shutter and cleaned everything, and the mechanism now works. I'll complete the job as soon as the replacement light seal foam I ordered arrived. this is one camera I'm really looking forward to having a go with, as it's my first half frame!
Cheers
Jim
The meter worked (needle responded to light) and all other functions appeared correct, but the iris was refusing to stop down.
On opening up the camera, I found all the light seal foam to be very deteriorated, either flaking to pieces or reduced to black gunge. These bits of rotten foam can wreak havoc if they get where they shouldn't - which appeared to be the cause of the sticky iris. I removed and disassembled the shutter and cleaned everything, and the mechanism now works. I'll complete the job as soon as the replacement light seal foam I ordered arrived. this is one camera I'm really looking forward to having a go with, as it's my first half frame!
Cheers
Jim