Changing Iso

[elmer3.5]

Hi, in order to get the best of each roll i am changing em to get lower or higher iso .

Please tell me how many of you change rolls or use other techniques to achieve this iso switch.

Thanks!

 

[Pickett Wilson]

Are you talking about changing in mid roll? If so, I never do that. Too much trouble. I just shoot the entire roll at one time, then change to a higher ISO film if needed. But then I've never shot a partial roll of film on any subject. Always the entire roll.

 

[Pickett Wilson]

By the way, I like your "Bye bye evil photofactory Canon 5D!" line. But what about that printer company RD-1s? 😉

 

[Nikon Bob]

I used to switch rolls with a film SLR but now I just use 400 iso film in my RFs and use an ND filter if needed. Digital solve that issue for me nicely though.

Bob

 

[JustPlainBill]

Hi,
I almost always use ISO 400 film in my film cameras.
Cheers,
JustPlainBill

 

[payasam]

The poll options helped me to make sense of the question. When I worked only with film, I had different films in two bodies.

 

[Al Kaplan]

Films today are so much better than twenty years ago. About the only time I switch is when I know somebody who "goes digital" and gifts me with their film stash. I shoot mostly 400 ISO B&W film in D-76 1:1 or on rare occasions Diafine to get 1200 from the same film.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Couldn't vote...

With one body I change rolls, even of the same film, to develop them differently.

Usually, more than one body with me... Sometimes, three bodies are not enough, and I have to change rolls for b&w and color, and for sunlight or shadows. I have ALWAYS with me, together, my Sekonic and that thing to take film out again from rewound rolls. And a thin permanent market to write on rolls what light and which frame to start again.

Cheers,

Juan

 

[degruyl]

For me, I am usually shooting 120, lately. Therefore, changing mid-roll is silly. Just shoot the other nine shots, and get it over with.

When I am shooting 35mm, I mostly use 400 or 100, Tri-X and Astia. Different cameras, typically, but I don't have them with me at the same time. Usually one of the cameras is serving as a backup to the MF camera.

 

[nikon_sam]

For the most part I'm using 400 asa B&W film (I do have a few rolls of 100 but shy away from it) I need to pick up a few different ND filters so I can play with DOF...

 

[Roger Hicks]

I prefer to concentrate on taking pictures, rather than fiddling with the camera. As I very seldom need more than two film-stocks, I carry two cameras. When I was doing an IR test a while back, though, I carried 5 cameras, 3 pre-loaded with IR (which had to be loaded in the dark). MP, M4-P, 2x M2, Bessa-R2.

Cheers,

R.

 

[borrel]

If I anticipate a problem using 135, I add a back or two to the extra back I'm already carrying for the Rolleiflex 3003. The same with 120 using a Bronica SQ or Mamiya Universal. With 135 RF, it's a bit more tricky as my CL is the only M-body I have. So the Rollei 35S and a Minox 35 GT have to serve as extra "bodies". Of course the real "solution" to needing faster ISO in mid roll is simply to stand more still and keep taking pictures. I can't image this was Vivian Maier's foremost "problem". And would that I could get somewhere near her results!

 

[elmer3.5]

Thanks!

Thanks!

Hi, very interesting you experiences in dealing with iso and film.
It´s been quite helpful since i´m getting back to film
as i´m not happy with crop factor epson!

I find very easy changing rolls with the contax g1!

Not so easy with leicas.

Bye & thanks again!

From time to time i fall for a reflex but this 5d was a pain, i finally changed it to a fellow who lend me his m4 w/ metrawat plus a summilux 50 typ2 for it, not bad isn´t it?

 

[oftheherd]

Couldn't vote...

With one body I change rolls, even of the same film, to develop them differently.

Usually, more than one body with me... Sometimes, three bodies are not enough, and I have to change rolls for b&w and color, and for sunlight or shadows. I have ALWAYS with me, together, my Sekonic and that thing to take film out again from rewound rolls. And a thin permanent market to write on rolls what light and which frame to start again.

Cheers,

Juan

I tend not to do it often, but I have changed rolls in the past. You need to mark the roll in some way that prevents you from reusing it unless you remember to go one past the last used frame. Also, you must always load to the same point on every leader of film every time.

Someone mentioned 120 film. If using my Super Press 23, it is just a back change. But 120 can be wound on, marked, and rewound in a dark room or changing bag. You need rubber bands to keep the film tight so there are no light leaks, and it must be marked as above. It isn't as easy, as sometimes you don't get the film tight enough (have to keep the reels right on each other) when you rewind it, and get a bulge. Generally a PITA and to be avoided. I really have to feel pressed or I just make do.

 

[pvdhaar]

When I still had the Hexar-AF with its 1/250 top speed, I would switch between 100 ISO during the day and 400 ISO in the evening. Of course, the Hexar made that a breeze with its leader out rewind and its very accurate film load/advance. The only thing to remember was to have a marker along to write the frame number on the film canister.

At present, every camera I have at least goes to 1/1000, so there's no need to switch..

 

[Harold Gough]

Where circumstances call for it, e.g. moving indoors for some shots, if my main camera (ISI100) is mid-film I use an identical second body for ISO 400, often pushed one stop. This is with my 35mm SLR. When someone gives me a second X-Pan....

 

[Dwig]

Back in ancient days (read: waining decades of the previous millennium) when I shot film my habit was to use different bodies for different films. I generally had two to three Nikon SLRs in my basic kit, one with color (almost always Kodachrome) and one with my standard use B&W. I also kept a good RF in the kit (Nikon, Leica, Canon, ..., they kept changing for some reason) that was used most often for low light work.

 

[Harold Gough]

(almost always Kodachrome)

Me too, until about mid 2001, due to distrust of E6 archival properties !

 

[Dwig]

Me too, until about mid 2001, due to distrust of E6 archival properties !

"Distrust" is the operative word here. As it seems to have turned out, E-6 films, and the later E-4 films, seem to be holding up well in dark storage.

I've been scanning old family slides recently. I did a batch from 1960 this morning. The E-2 process Ektachromes (Ektachrome-X I think) were very poor even with the best correction I could achieve. The Kodachrome-II slides from the same vacation have excellent color and required very little correction. They seem to suffer only a little highlight detail loss and virtually no color shift. The highlight detail may have never been there in the first place, for that matter.

My Ektachromes from 1966-67 (I was on a high speed film, develop it myself kick at that point) all seem to have held up with no loss or color shift. Nothing newer seems to have suffered from age whether Ektachrome or Kodachrome (I didn't mess with other brands of color slide except the occasional experiment).

 

[xxloverxx]

Depending on my mood, sometimes I load 2 cameras with different film and sometimes I just stick to 1 ISO.