Changing Iso

[Brian Levy]

I used to carry several cameras loaded with different film stock but then simply decided to stick with my ETRS and slap on different backs each loaded with a different stock and different film formats, either 120 or 35mm. My backup is a 35mm and usually loaded with a b&w or C-41 B&w emulsion.

 

[Shane Guthrie]

Bit of both

Bit of both

I voted 'change mid-roll' as I've just done it again this week, but other times I just stick it out with whatever's in body. I'm still learning what I can get away with hand-held as the light fades.

Then I just remember what frame it was at, or write it on the roll if I can, and then after reloading it advance to just beyond where it was.

It's easy to hear when the film leaves the spool in the CL.

 

[jsrockit]

I used to use multiple bodies to switch ISOs... now I just hit the ISO button on my camera. 😉

 

[nomade]

I stick to the roll in my camera, however, I may have a camera with different iso setting. If I've a certain use for that specific roll, I'd pick the iso accordingly, usually when I travel with 2 cameras, each has a different film iso.

 

[taskoni]

I stick to 400 ISO most of the time. Tmax and Ilford. On a sunny day I love to use Ilford delta 100 but not so many sunny days here in Lithuania (he-he). Anyway, If I don't have time to change film I don't shoot - just watch and try to picture the moment in my head.

 

[imokruok]

I change backs, as I'm only shooting 120 these days. But from what I've been reading, you can expose the new Portra 400 at pretty much whatever you want and it will still come out okay. I've heard even 2 stops underexposure with no push still yields a good result.

 

[urs0polar]

I take tons of film with me, but I usually end up with neopan 400 or neopan 1600 in the m6. However, even when I have ISO 100 in there, I can still usually find something to lean against and even do a bulb exposure if I have to... or just hand-hold really steady. That's why these rf cameras are awesome... with some practice, you can get useable results even with the completely wrong film for the job. Thus, whatever roll is in there stays until it is finished. Creativity is stimulated by a challenge, no?

The Mamiya 7 is much the same theory, though strangely it is harder to be really still with the Mamiya 7. The Linhof Technica 4x5, on the other hand, is like the M6, just breathe out and squeeze -- though with the 4x5, I don't have the "roll of film" issue (though interestingly enough I'm usually using ISO 400 b&w there too).

 

[wlewisiii]

None of the above.

I adjust ISO on the fly if it's B&W. That's also why I shoot Tri-X and use Diafine.

Color, I'm almost as flexable and more often than not, the shots work.

 

[rphenning]

I just change it for the shot I want as long as it is within reason for the film I am using. Negative film I just rate whatever I want, ha. Sometimes it's not even close to the box speed and I still am happy. I think it's mostly just using one kind of film until you think you have a good idea about what it does.

 

[Harold Gough]

Yes, with print film you get two chances, at the exposure stage and at the printing stage. Digital imaging and the use of print film have greater similarities to each other than either to the use of transparency film.

 

[gliderbee]

Only talking B&W here, and I should not admit it in public, as it might be considered heresy (and I prefer "proper" exposure like everyone else), but:

Recently, I had only one camera with me and the "wrong" film (FP4): I was in an old castle, nice weather outside, great light inside with very high contrast, etc .. so I just changed ISO (or if you want: overexposed or underexposed) as necessary within the same roll, as if I was using a digital camera. Then I developed the film stand development (you know, Rodinal 1+100, two hours, 15 sec. "walsing" the tank every 30 min). All pictures came out fine; some were a bit denser then usual, but all had plenty detail in the shadows, nice highlights and very printable ... I just printed them yesterday evening.

Stefan.

 

[Harold Gough]

If you develop your own film you can avoid the compromise. Note the frame number, shoot some blanks, note frame number again, change ISO, etc.. and repeat procedure to change ISO again. You could then measure, cut (blank frames allowing for error) and process each strip accordingly

 

[dct]

...Of course, the Hexar (AF) made that a breeze with its leader out rewind and its very accurate film load/advance. The only thing to remember was to have a marker along to write the frame number on the film canister.
...

Same with the Hexar RF: No problem doing exact MRC. My preferred daylight film is Ektar 100. Not usable for indoors, e.g. dark churches or cryptas. Then I switch for a few images to Superia 1600. And back in the sun to Ektar 100 again.

Of course, I do this fiddling only in situation where it doesn't fit taking full equipment and different bodies with me.

My canisters are covered with writeable tape, where I note the last/next number of the changed rolls.

 

[bulevardi]

Be aware that this is a public poll: other users can see the choice(s) you selected!

I just buy a roll that suits me... put it in a random camera. Shoot at whatever condition.
Sometimes I choose a specific roll for specific situations: nightshots, concerts etc...

 

[al1966]

I have various 35mm slr bodies and normally have one with a fast film neopan 1600 and one with a 100 speed film, at the moment Lucky or Agfa. I tend to use 100-200 speed in medium format and will use a tripod if required. I never got the full hang of mid roll changes when I was younger and you can find a nice 35mm Slr for less than £10 if you look around. I have bought a few for 99p with lens though they have been off major brand jobs.

 

[Godfrey]

When I shoot film, I load a roll, fit a lens on the camera, and shoot with it until it's done. However long that takes. Sometimes it takes weeks.

When I shoot with a digital camera, ISO becomes just another adjustable parameter for making exposure, along with focus, aperture and shutter settings.