Choice of Older DSLR bodies?

[waynec]

I'm doing a little leg work on finding an older model used DSLR body with decent high ISO performance. I've shot a folk music performance season multiple years and have done so with both a Panasonic G1 and 3200 ISO film in various bodies without using flash. Problem is shutter speeds to stop movement and the usually wider open apertures. I'd love to be able to close the aperture down a stop or so from wide open and/or get a little faster shutter speed. The speeds are really too slow at about a 1/30th at times or less and I have to time my shots (with luck) to get any keepers or sharpen things up in post. My lens choices are in manual Pentax, 50 f2 and a 135 f3.5, and I have some AF Nikon stuff, 50 f1.8 (new this season) 70-210 f4-5.6 and a 35 f2 for my film bodies. My Panasonic thru adapters takes all my lenses plus my Panny 45-90, but it's still pretty slow shutter speeds. This endeavor is more a favor, and fun, then anything so I'm not looking to spend gobs of money here. I just need something to freeze the action and I don't care about auto focus or 12800 iso's. The Panasonic has done reasonably well but I loose alot of shots because of movement at the needed lower iso, so I'd love to find something giving me a good 3200 iso performance minimum. Right now everything goes online but I really want to shoot some for print and maybe make a buck or two on this endeavor.

 

[Scrambler]

Nothing too old will have good high ISO performance. On the other hand it WILL have some sort of performance so they may be good enough.

I have a Pentax K100D which is fine for lower ISOs and gets messy by more recent standards at higher ISOs.

From your gear list, either Pentax or Nikon APS-c should save you needing lenses and not break the bank. Check DPReview and others for performance of cameras that fit your price range - ebay sold search is probably as good as anything for a price indicator. Or check KEH or other online camera shops that deal in second hand gear. If the high-ISO performance in the reviews meets your needs, and the camera meets your budget, you are set.

The Pentax K100D is compatible with every PK-mount and Pentax-compatible M42 mount lens. I find I need to wind up the compensation in AE with M42 lenses. It works flawlessly with AF/AE PK-mount lenses from film cameras. But my wife's recent Canon EOS700D (the most recent "Rebel") wipes the floor with the now 7 year old Pentax for IQ, high ISO, colour ... Pity it doesn't take my old lenses!

 

[back alley]

I'd love to find a Nikon d300 for a good price...had a d200 and really liked it.

 

[stompyq]

Asking decent iso 3200 performance eliminates the vast majority of older DSLR bodies. I have experience only with nikon and can tell you not to go older than the D7000. Certainly not the D200/D2x bodies. Even the D300 starts to struggle at iso 1600. If you have the money get a D700. if cost/preformance matters then get the D7000. If you want a cheap body then go with the newer consumer models (D3200 etc)

 

[Phil_F_NM]

If your Nikon 35mm f/2 is an Ai or AiS lens, you can use it on almost any Nikon digital body, with varying degrees of functionality.

I'm one who prefers heavy bodies to help dampen vibrations at slower speeds.
While it isn't at all current and the usable high ISO is 1600, the Nikon D2Hs is a fantastic camera. People will decry the D2 series because they are comparing them to modern high resolution very high ISO performers like the D800 but for the money, the D2Hs can't be beat. The files are outstanding and with some good technique, the camera can be used to make fantastic photos.

Other than that, you might look at a D300s, a D700 or even a D3 if you can swing it. The D3 is still current with technology but has been superseeded by the s and x models then the D4 and its variants. All those older cameras offer full metering functionality with all Nikkors except the early F lenses without the Ai metering cutout. Mounting a pre-Ai lens on your Nikon digital of any kind can damage the camera's metering lug which is a $12 part that Nikon will charge $130 to fix.

Your 35/2 and 50/1.8 are both outstanding lenses that can deliver some serious results. If you need some more reach with the ability to gather a ton of light, the 85mm f/1.4 is outstanding. The AiS 105mm f/2.5 is a legendary lens that is just about perfect for photography of acts on stage with an ISO above 800.

Good luck in your search!
Phil Forrest

 

[Frank Petronio]

What is your budget? It's hard to get much cheaper than a Pany G1 these days, people can't give away the former "Camera of the Year" ;-p

I've used a Panasonic G1 at ISO 3200 and it gets pretty "arty" at that point... but not much different than a D200 or D80. I think you'd need a Nikon D90 or D300 to see a real step upwards of improvement. They are in the $350-$500 range now. A D7000 would be another step ($600). The D700 would be even better ($1350), then beyond that you'd be into the new cameras like the D7100 ($900) or D600 ($1100 with oil residue, $1300 refurbished) which would be that much further along.

I did some tests once and sometimes you do better shooting with a faster but shorter lens and cropping ~ like your 50/1.8, wide open and with a faster shutter speed ~ than you will with longer, slower lenses and slower shutter speeds. It's a multi-variable calculation but some experimentation will pay dividends. You might try shooting both ways and mixing it up, then paying attention during editing.

Also you want to time your shots so you capture expression and movement, but try to hit the height of the gesture when their is a slight pause, as opposed to arms and faces in mid-swing.

They're folk singers right? So they're pretty slow and mellowed out? Get them buzzed ahead of time so they slow down ;-p