GarageBoy
Well-known
I'm very limited on space - looking into a 35mm B&W only enlarger - Besides the Omega B22 and the Durst M301- any others I should look into? Printmaker?
x-ray
Veteran
The B22 would be the choice if you're in the US. Very well built and tons of accessories.
A used Leitz Focomat 1c is excellent but a little costly and the Valoy II is essentially a non auto focusing Focomat. I'd stay clear of the Leitz V35 though. No bulbs are available now and the one substitute is pretty dim. There were 2 models of the V35 but bulbs are gone for both.
A used Leitz Focomat 1c is excellent but a little costly and the Valoy II is essentially a non auto focusing Focomat. I'd stay clear of the Leitz V35 though. No bulbs are available now and the one substitute is pretty dim. There were 2 models of the V35 but bulbs are gone for both.
nobbylon
Veteran
+10
buy cheap buy twice
A good Leitz 1C and you wont need to buy another. Enlarger lenses do make a difference, I used the LEica, NIkon and the Minolta 50's, all superb. The biggest issues apart from lens is even illumination and film flatness. Get a 1C and save yourself some money longterm.
GarageBoy
Well-known
I'm in the US - the B22 looks nice, but none are available locally - There IS a nice C760 for sale near me for $125 - comes with a nice EL Nikkor too - should I pounce?
Ronald M
Veteran
Without a doubt.
Look at the baseboard and be sure it has no sag front to rear. If it sags and you move the easel, it goes out of alignment.
If you do get a flat board, put extra feet front to back.
It has no alignment provision so I had to use RC paper shims under the column. That get the neg stage level. Next you need to level out the lens. Masking tape shims worked ok.
Make sure you can still buy bulbs for it and buy up a supply. Two to start and more soon if you really decide to continue with darkroom.http//www.freestylephoto.biz/1001266-Ushio-Enlarger-Bulb-PH140-75W
Make sure the it times properly and the focus light turns light of/on.
The bulbs are incandescent which change color as they age making color printing a little harder.
Shine a small light thru the lens from both ends and be sure it is clean inside. Enlarging lenses are frequently screwed up because they are stored in basements.
Look at the baseboard and be sure it has no sag front to rear. If it sags and you move the easel, it goes out of alignment.
If you do get a flat board, put extra feet front to back.
It has no alignment provision so I had to use RC paper shims under the column. That get the neg stage level. Next you need to level out the lens. Masking tape shims worked ok.
Make sure you can still buy bulbs for it and buy up a supply. Two to start and more soon if you really decide to continue with darkroom.http//www.freestylephoto.biz/1001266-Ushio-Enlarger-Bulb-PH140-75W
Make sure the it times properly and the focus light turns light of/on.
The bulbs are incandescent which change color as they age making color printing a little harder.
Shine a small light thru the lens from both ends and be sure it is clean inside. Enlarging lenses are frequently screwed up because they are stored in basements.
joeswe
Well-known
@Abergon
Forget Beseler and Omega, they are almost non-existent in the European market and even if you can find such an enlarger, you will have a hard time finding accessories and spares.
I second the recommendation for an Meopta Opemus 7 (up to 6x6) or Magnifax 4 (up to 6x9). They are still readily available used in Europe for modest prices (although some accessories have become more difficult to source), are very sturdy metal constructions and offer all the flexibility and precision one could ask from an amateur grade enlarger and more. For 100 Euro or less (which seems to be the going price) it will not disappoint you.
If you have more money to spend (500 plus) and enough space in your darkroom, by all means go for one of the semi-pro or even pro Durst models, but most are big and heavy and accessories are $$$. Don't bother with the Durst/Kaiser/Dunco amateur grade enlargers. They are too expensive for what they offer and IMHO are mostly inferior to the Meopta models mentioned.
Don't skimp on lenses. High quality 6 element lenses like a late Rodenstock Rodagon, Schneider Componon or Nikkor EL-N should be available for around 50 Euros. While you probably will not see a difference between a cheaper 4 element and one of the mentioned 6 element lenses stopped down at small or modest enlargements in most cases, the good lenses are so cheap nowadays that it doesn't make any sense to buy a 4 element lens to save 10 or 15 Euros. The cheaper lenses had their raison d'être in the good old days when a 6 element enlarging lens still cost several hundred Euros. These days are gone.
The third most important piece of equipment is a quality enlarging easel in good condition. This is one of the darkroom items that still commands a bit of money when you want to get decent quality. You can do some research. Names like Leitz, Kaiser, Dunco and Ahel will pop up, just to mention a few. The better ones range from about 100 Euro upwards.
Forget Beseler and Omega, they are almost non-existent in the European market and even if you can find such an enlarger, you will have a hard time finding accessories and spares.
I second the recommendation for an Meopta Opemus 7 (up to 6x6) or Magnifax 4 (up to 6x9). They are still readily available used in Europe for modest prices (although some accessories have become more difficult to source), are very sturdy metal constructions and offer all the flexibility and precision one could ask from an amateur grade enlarger and more. For 100 Euro or less (which seems to be the going price) it will not disappoint you.
If you have more money to spend (500 plus) and enough space in your darkroom, by all means go for one of the semi-pro or even pro Durst models, but most are big and heavy and accessories are $$$. Don't bother with the Durst/Kaiser/Dunco amateur grade enlargers. They are too expensive for what they offer and IMHO are mostly inferior to the Meopta models mentioned.
Don't skimp on lenses. High quality 6 element lenses like a late Rodenstock Rodagon, Schneider Componon or Nikkor EL-N should be available for around 50 Euros. While you probably will not see a difference between a cheaper 4 element and one of the mentioned 6 element lenses stopped down at small or modest enlargements in most cases, the good lenses are so cheap nowadays that it doesn't make any sense to buy a 4 element lens to save 10 or 15 Euros. The cheaper lenses had their raison d'être in the good old days when a 6 element enlarging lens still cost several hundred Euros. These days are gone.
The third most important piece of equipment is a quality enlarging easel in good condition. This is one of the darkroom items that still commands a bit of money when you want to get decent quality. You can do some research. Names like Leitz, Kaiser, Dunco and Ahel will pop up, just to mention a few. The better ones range from about 100 Euro upwards.
aizan
Veteran
no relation to the seller, but i would get this meopta magnifax 4a (goes up to 6x9!):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEOPTA-MA...730726?hash=item1eaab0c666:g:BsYAAOSwKtlWqNxD
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEOPTA-MA...730726?hash=item1eaab0c666:g:BsYAAOSwKtlWqNxD
skibeerr
Well-known
There is always time to buy gear, try to find a mentor first.
Getting a print is fairly easy, getting good prints with consistency an other matter al together. I have mucked around for ages without seeking advice resulting in some good prints and lots of frustration.
Getting a print is fairly easy, getting good prints with consistency an other matter al together. I have mucked around for ages without seeking advice resulting in some good prints and lots of frustration.
bence8810
Well-known
Sorry for the slight hijack but how is a Focomat 1c better than a more modern enlarger like the Beseler 23C etc?
When I look at the Focomat 1c I see an enlarger that's really nice to look at and I am sure it's really well built too but it just doesn't seem as sturdy as some of the other options. Having been printing for a year now I know that stability is extremely important. The Focomat's column seems a little too narrow from pictures, is it really stable?
This is all said without actually having used one so these are merely thoughts.
A lot of great feedback above by the way - this thread could have saved me some time when I was starting up.
About the mentor - it's a great idea. I have printed with 3 different people (1 session each) and I learned something new every time.
Ben
When I look at the Focomat 1c I see an enlarger that's really nice to look at and I am sure it's really well built too but it just doesn't seem as sturdy as some of the other options. Having been printing for a year now I know that stability is extremely important. The Focomat's column seems a little too narrow from pictures, is it really stable?
This is all said without actually having used one so these are merely thoughts.
A lot of great feedback above by the way - this thread could have saved me some time when I was starting up.
About the mentor - it's a great idea. I have printed with 3 different people (1 session each) and I learned something new every time.
Ben
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The Focomat Ic is as sturdy as necessary.
Erik.
Erik.
LouisGeorge
Newbie
LEDs do work. I use a Focomat 1c and do split-grade printing with grade 00 and 5 filters. Recently I put a LED lamp in the enlarger. The box says Osram LED Superstar Classic A Advanced. It is rated at 10 Watts, equivalent to 60 W, with an expected lifetime of 20 times that of an incandescent lamp. The colour temperature is 2700 K.
The 60 W is easily bright for 12 by 16 enlargements with exposure times of around 20 seconds. And the enlarger stays cool.
Ronald M
Veteran
You can not learn to drive with a soap box derby racer.
If the lens is junk, every print will be a garbage can candidate. When you do move up, the lens contrast will be markedly better. Then you need to recalibrate
traveler_101
American abroad
Take a course then, rather than trying to do it on your own? I have often wondered whether it would be fool hardy to give it a go on my own without someone's help or direct oversight.
Making my own prints is a dream, but the obstacles . . . acquiring the equipment is hard enough, trying to find a space to set up in this crowded house is an even bigger problem. It feels like a set of overwhelming obstacles.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Long before the Internet I assembled my first home darkroom on a student budget.
Using modest gear with practice over time I learned what is required to make a good print.
The limiting factor was seldom the hardware.
Get a good serviceable enlarger. Inexpensive is fine but don't skimp on the lens.
Make sure it's in good condition and complete with essential accessories e.g. negative carriers
or they are commonly available locally on eBay etc.
I assume you already have the gear required for developing film.
In addition you will need a timer, safelight, easel, developing trays, etc.
And don't forget to budget for paper and chemicals.
For me darkroom wet printing is the most enjoyable and rewarding part of the photographic process.
Good luck and have fun!
Chris
Using modest gear with practice over time I learned what is required to make a good print.
The limiting factor was seldom the hardware.
Get a good serviceable enlarger. Inexpensive is fine but don't skimp on the lens.
Make sure it's in good condition and complete with essential accessories e.g. negative carriers
or they are commonly available locally on eBay etc.
I assume you already have the gear required for developing film.
In addition you will need a timer, safelight, easel, developing trays, etc.
And don't forget to budget for paper and chemicals.
For me darkroom wet printing is the most enjoyable and rewarding part of the photographic process.
Good luck and have fun!
Chris