brbo
Well-known
The ramjet removal chemical is easily available
from Kodak [ I paid £10 for 20ltr including London area delivery ! ].
Or can be easily made from raw chemicals.
How does it work? Do you still have to physically remove remjet from the negative?
wilonstott
Wil O.
How does it work? Do you still have to physically remove remjet from the negative?
That's angle with the Cinestill guys--they're selling cartidged 35mm 500T with the remjet already removed. You can process it like any other C-41 neg.
brbo
Well-known
That's angle with the Cinestill guys--they're selling cartidged 35mm 500T with the remjet already removed. You can process it like any other C-41 neg.
I know that. Not really what I was asking.
What I wanted to know was how difficult it is to remove the remjet from the negative with the chemicals tonyc mentioned... Does it still involve removing the remjet with your hands/paper towels/etc.?
wilonstott
Wil O.
I know that. Not really what I was asking.
What I wanted to know was how difficult it is to remove the remjet from the negative with the chemicals tonyc mentioned... Does it still involve removing the remjet with your hands/paper towels/etc.?
Sorry about that--I misunderstood.
tonyc
Established
How does it work? Do you still have to physically remove remjet from the negative?
Hello
Sorry for the delay, nice weather outside !
Here's my method for Patterson style tank dev.
Using the ECN-2 prebath or equivilent, removes 99% of the ramjet.
A wipe with a cloth at the end gets rid of any remaining sparkles [see not below involving baby wipes !]
Mix ECN-2 prebath 1 to 3 water. [or equiv chem from Apug formula]
- Soak film with mild agitation for about 3-4mins.
- Tip out.
- Fill tank with water [no hotter than 24deg, important]
- Agitate crazily vigorously for a while, go for it !!
- Tip out water [now black with the ramjet backing]
- Repeat last two steps about 5 times. [important to avoid crossover of prebath with colour dev]
- Then procede with normal ECN-2 or C41 process. CD, Bleach, FIX, Stabliser
- Do not throw away stabliser, pour into clean container.
- Hang film.
- Clean away the remaining ramjet sparkles on the film backing only [not emulsion side] with a clean lint free
cloth soaked in the stabliser. [ I use unused bio baby-wipes from Waitrose, that I rinse to remove any chemical residue]
- Also a good idea to use a chamois strip to wipe the film backing
if you live in hard water area.
Hope that helps.
-TC
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
Coming late to the Cinestill party:
Note the halation, shot below, around the spots because the remjet has gone BEFORE exposure:
Shot at 800iso next roll will be given more light maybe 640 or 400.
Colour balance is impressive, commercial Noritsu scan.

Note the halation, shot below, around the spots because the remjet has gone BEFORE exposure:

Shot at 800iso next roll will be given more light maybe 640 or 400.
Colour balance is impressive, commercial Noritsu scan.
totifoto
Well-known
I just got my first roll of the Cinestill 800. Put it through my Olympus Mju.
Like this film
Would like to see how it works when pushed.
It´s also coming in 120 and they just introduced a new ISO 50 daylight film that looks really nice.
Like this film

It´s also coming in 120 and they just introduced a new ISO 50 daylight film that looks really nice.
RichyD
Established
I usually shoot 120 with E6 for colour but could see a use for this film so gave it a try.
I find it best at what it was designed for, indoor tungsten light. Managed one shot in a theatre, bit too far away but colour balance great.
Works well in daylight with 85B filter, balanced tones and saturation. Of the enclosed sample the red bins, the subtle toning of the brickwork and grey pavement come out well with no correction. Can't wait to try the 50D film.
In artificial light you get a lot of halo effect around lights but more so at 500 ISO than 800. I would say, depending on the scene, that with the remjet removal shooting at the recommended 800 reduces that effect and gives slightly more saturation though some might feel not bright enough.
In mixed lighting, again depending on the scene, the daylight areas seem to have a magenta/cyan cast.
I find it best at what it was designed for, indoor tungsten light. Managed one shot in a theatre, bit too far away but colour balance great.
Works well in daylight with 85B filter, balanced tones and saturation. Of the enclosed sample the red bins, the subtle toning of the brickwork and grey pavement come out well with no correction. Can't wait to try the 50D film.
In artificial light you get a lot of halo effect around lights but more so at 500 ISO than 800. I would say, depending on the scene, that with the remjet removal shooting at the recommended 800 reduces that effect and gives slightly more saturation though some might feel not bright enough.
In mixed lighting, again depending on the scene, the daylight areas seem to have a magenta/cyan cast.
Attachments
V-12
Well-known
I've used it in daylight without a filter and while it renders a bit cool the colours still look natural. What is amazing is the halation, wonderful! I wouldn't recommend CineStill for anybody who is going to be picky and start comparing it as good or bad against Portra or something, but it is terrific if you want some character in the image.
V
V
StevenJohn
Established
tonyc - I have a question about your observation: "For RA4 printing, ECN-2 film is probably not much good, as the contrast is much lower than C41 design films."
I find that RA4 papers are very high in contrast. In your opinion, could ECN-2 film be a method to tame it?
I find that RA4 papers are very high in contrast. In your opinion, could ECN-2 film be a method to tame it?
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.