kmack
do your job, then let go
I have been toying with the idea of trying a new developer. I have been getting good results with HC110 1:100 but I wanted to try something different. Shutterflowers test with the Arista developer got me to try some of the Clayton f76+.
The camera was my Bessa R and the lens is a Canon 50/1.8. Shot at f11 -- 1/250
Clayton f76+ 1:19, 24C -- 30 seconds initial agitation, 2 inversions every minute there after for 9 minutes.
Photo one is a barber pole on a red painted wall, green awning.
Photo two is a full crop of same.
The camera was my Bessa R and the lens is a Canon 50/1.8. Shot at f11 -- 1/250
Clayton f76+ 1:19, 24C -- 30 seconds initial agitation, 2 inversions every minute there after for 9 minutes.
Photo one is a barber pole on a red painted wall, green awning.
Photo two is a full crop of same.
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sf
Veteran
So how do you like to compared to the HC110?
kmack
do your job, then let go
FP4 is much sharper, finer grain, in the Clayton vs the HC110, Seems a little more contrasty, I am going to have to scan some more from that roll to see for sure. I will also have to run some Tri-X to see what that looks like.
If you check my gallery there are a lot of shots using HC110 and FP4/Tri-X This one would be a good one to compare with.
If you check my gallery there are a lot of shots using HC110 and FP4/Tri-X This one would be a good one to compare with.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Did you shoot at the same EI as with HC-110? If so, then the added contrast is likely to be simple and slight overexposure.
Phenidone-based developers are pretty nice. I'm going to be pushing some TXT in F76+ when I get home from this wedding tomorrow.
allan
Phenidone-based developers are pretty nice. I'm going to be pushing some TXT in F76+ when I get home from this wedding tomorrow.
allan
kmack
do your job, then let go
kaiyen said:
Update us on how the TXT push goes. I like the push characteristics of TXT in HC110. It would be interesting to hear your experience with the Clayton.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
F76+ is decent for pushing, using 1+19 helps since it lowers contrast a little bit.
Something I like is that you can work on zones 15 and 16 with good separation
Something I like is that you can work on zones 15 and 16 with good separation
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Zones 15 and 16? You're achieving 13 stops of range?
allan
allan
kmack
do your job, then let go
kaiyen said:
I finished scanning the rest of the roll. I use a KM Scan Dual III with Vuescan and they scanned very well. Some of the sharpest results I have ever gotten with any film so far.
I think the contrast issues are due to the fact that for the most part I was shooting very contrasty subjects in bright sun. I the future I may try adjusting the agitation ( a little less ) under the same situations.
The last five shots in my gallery are from this test roll if anyone is interested.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Sure, most films will give you even more than that.
Zones above 9 are the ones in the sky/clouds and usually "come to be" after burning the sky/clouds
Zones above 9 are the ones in the sky/clouds and usually "come to be" after burning the sky/clouds
kaiyen said:
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Pablo,
Intriguing. I have never bothered to compare what I'm actually getting with what I metered. In other words, I meter and tell myself it's N-1, but I don't go back to see if stuff that was out in Zone 11, 12, etc are actually showing up anyway.
hm.
allan
Intriguing. I have never bothered to compare what I'm actually getting with what I metered. In other words, I meter and tell myself it's N-1, but I don't go back to see if stuff that was out in Zone 11, 12, etc are actually showing up anyway.
hm.
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Allan, the zone system is a great idea BUT sometimes we forget that there is far more to it. There are more than 10 zones in real life!
Just for kicks try taking a picture on a long range escene, place the shadows in zone 4 or so, then take the picture.
Make sure to icnlude some sky or clouds that probably will be in zone 14 or 15.... have no fear!!! they will be there after you develop among a lot of density.
The fact that we have to burn the sky sometimes 200% the time the rest of the picutre is exposed means we are going to1 or 2 zones over 10 at least. and going into the mid teens shouldn;t be a problem
Look for the New PT special edition book (BW Master Printing Class by Bruce Barnbaum) for a more wordy and technical explanation than what I can do.
Just for kicks try taking a picture on a long range escene, place the shadows in zone 4 or so, then take the picture.
Make sure to icnlude some sky or clouds that probably will be in zone 14 or 15.... have no fear!!! they will be there after you develop among a lot of density.
The fact that we have to burn the sky sometimes 200% the time the rest of the picutre is exposed means we are going to1 or 2 zones over 10 at least. and going into the mid teens shouldn;t be a problem
Look for the New PT special edition book (BW Master Printing Class by Bruce Barnbaum) for a more wordy and technical explanation than what I can do.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Pablo,
I know the ZS is juat a tool, but there are limits to what film can capture. And 15+ zones is a lot.
But you're right, in the end.
allan
I know the ZS is juat a tool, but there are limits to what film can capture. And 15+ zones is a lot
. But you're right, in the end.
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
In the end.... you mean in the part that you's better read Bruce barnbaum's comments????
kaiyen
local man of mystery
I meant that you're right to not get too caught up in zones I-IX in the ZS. Bruce's books are always good reads, though.
allan
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Juts kidding....
I tried to zone with 35mm a while ago and after a few months of frustration I just said &^%& it and went back to enjoy photography by taking pictures. Just meter for the shadow, close 1 or 2 stops and Vavoom!
I tried to zone with 35mm a while ago and after a few months of frustration I just said &^%& it and went back to enjoy photography by taking pictures. Just meter for the shadow, close 1 or 2 stops and Vavoom!