kuzano
Veteran
Advantages of automated snipe systems - Esnipe, etc.
Advantages of automated snipe systems - Esnipe, etc.
A long time ago, I concluded the advantages of automated sniping over putting up your highest bid on the eBay proxy bid system.
1) With automated sniping, you can set the final check on bidding down to mere seconds, and not worry about your connection speed. I set mine for 3 seconds with Auctionsniper.com
2) I put in my highest bid amount and forget about the auction. That way I am not caught up in any heated last minute bidding and overpaying. However, you have to make sure you enter your absolute highest amount you will pay. It's not always used. I've had many times when my winning bid did NOT approach my highest bid.
3) By avoiding the eBay proxy system, you are not running up the bid price as others bid. Your participation in the auction is unknown to eBay and eBay bidders until those last seconds.
4) Try cancelling a bid if you are actively bidding on eBay. With an automated sniper, if you change your mind or find the item elsewhere, you can cancel an automatic snipe up until the last few minutes of the auction and no one is the wiser about your intent, including eBay. No foul if you want out.
But remember most of all, regardless of the system you use, the person who is willing and capable of paying more will win the auction.
Automated sniping has been frowned upon within the selling community on eBay, but it's really the highest bid that wins the object. If the auction is poorly presented, or the merchandise is questionable or in low demand, the resulting win will be low.
If the Item is prime, and the auction is presented well and timed right, and the demand for the product is high, winning bids will be high.
I teach eBay classes and the focus of my class is creating auctions that increase return on merchandise. Further, finding and buying the good deals is another point covered.
Advantages of automated snipe systems - Esnipe, etc.
A long time ago, I concluded the advantages of automated sniping over putting up your highest bid on the eBay proxy bid system.
1) With automated sniping, you can set the final check on bidding down to mere seconds, and not worry about your connection speed. I set mine for 3 seconds with Auctionsniper.com
2) I put in my highest bid amount and forget about the auction. That way I am not caught up in any heated last minute bidding and overpaying. However, you have to make sure you enter your absolute highest amount you will pay. It's not always used. I've had many times when my winning bid did NOT approach my highest bid.
3) By avoiding the eBay proxy system, you are not running up the bid price as others bid. Your participation in the auction is unknown to eBay and eBay bidders until those last seconds.
4) Try cancelling a bid if you are actively bidding on eBay. With an automated sniper, if you change your mind or find the item elsewhere, you can cancel an automatic snipe up until the last few minutes of the auction and no one is the wiser about your intent, including eBay. No foul if you want out.
But remember most of all, regardless of the system you use, the person who is willing and capable of paying more will win the auction.
Automated sniping has been frowned upon within the selling community on eBay, but it's really the highest bid that wins the object. If the auction is poorly presented, or the merchandise is questionable or in low demand, the resulting win will be low.
If the Item is prime, and the auction is presented well and timed right, and the demand for the product is high, winning bids will be high.
I teach eBay classes and the focus of my class is creating auctions that increase return on merchandise. Further, finding and buying the good deals is another point covered.
JohnTF
Veteran
The sellers have access to how many people are "watching", and there are many games played during an auction.
Another is, I understand that many people back out on their bids, and there is shill bidding going on as well, which leads to other games.
Several times the price on an item doubled or more in the last seconds, and I am contacted by the seller that he has another of the same, or the same item and will sell at the last bid. Unless I know the seller, I view this with suspicion, first, I caused the price to be high, and second, I have no idea who I was bidding against with the newer rules. I reported some obvious shill bidding once, and never heard from ebay.
Often there are only two bidders, and some items might have gone for a much more reasonable price if there were one less bidder.
I basically bid on something unusual, or something I just cannot find from a dealer.
I would check the dealers always first before shopping on a high ticket item on ebay. I do not know if IgorCamera has one, but I would sure check his site, along with KEH and Audorama, and of course here, though here you have to be really fast. ;-)
The price for the CLE was not exceptional, unless the camera was truly like new in good working order. They are nice cameras, but you are paying perhap more than the new cost, and am not sure what an M6 is going for, but if the price is close, the M6 is several generations of technology up the scale. I hear the 40mm lenses are going for a good seller's price.
Regards, John
Another is, I understand that many people back out on their bids, and there is shill bidding going on as well, which leads to other games.
Several times the price on an item doubled or more in the last seconds, and I am contacted by the seller that he has another of the same, or the same item and will sell at the last bid. Unless I know the seller, I view this with suspicion, first, I caused the price to be high, and second, I have no idea who I was bidding against with the newer rules. I reported some obvious shill bidding once, and never heard from ebay.
Often there are only two bidders, and some items might have gone for a much more reasonable price if there were one less bidder.
I basically bid on something unusual, or something I just cannot find from a dealer.
I would check the dealers always first before shopping on a high ticket item on ebay. I do not know if IgorCamera has one, but I would sure check his site, along with KEH and Audorama, and of course here, though here you have to be really fast. ;-)
The price for the CLE was not exceptional, unless the camera was truly like new in good working order. They are nice cameras, but you are paying perhap more than the new cost, and am not sure what an M6 is going for, but if the price is close, the M6 is several generations of technology up the scale. I hear the 40mm lenses are going for a good seller's price.
Regards, John
Palaeoboy
Joel Matherson
Hmmmm I would respectfully argue that one. They were both 80's cameras and at the time the CLE was well advanced of anything Leica had technologically. It took over a decade after the CLE before they could add TTL flash to its M6 and it took a couple of decades before Leica could come up with an aperture priority auto m mount camera the M7. Sorry but in camera bodies technologically Leica are the ones usually behind. When the most complained about feature on the CLE is the lack of metered manual which by todays standards sounds ridiculous, but putting the camera in context when it was released, the new Leica's M of the day didnt even have a built in light meter!
JohnTF
Veteran
You caught me thinking off the cuff of a camera possibly almost twenty years older than the most recent M6 run, and if you are comparing two of the same vintage, you are entirely correct.
Though I have owned two M6's, one older and a TTL of much more recent vintage, I only bought a CLE a few years ago, and realized to my pleasant surprise to find, it was quite a different rangefinder for its time, and yes I did wonder why the meter only works on A, but other cameras of that era did the same thing.
If I had to choose between the two, perhaps an early CLE and a late M6, I would probably choose the M6, but on reflection, I see what you mean in terms of design.
As long as the specific CLE in question has all of its bits working, you are good to go. If the circuit board goes, that is another question.
The CLE does quite well and is very interesting for a 1981 or so production.
If I am using almost any camera that may cease functioning due to anything electronic, I tend to think in terms of carrying a spare body.
Next time I will check with Joe Biden before making such a sweeping conclusion. ;-)
Regards, John
Though I have owned two M6's, one older and a TTL of much more recent vintage, I only bought a CLE a few years ago, and realized to my pleasant surprise to find, it was quite a different rangefinder for its time, and yes I did wonder why the meter only works on A, but other cameras of that era did the same thing.
If I had to choose between the two, perhaps an early CLE and a late M6, I would probably choose the M6, but on reflection, I see what you mean in terms of design.
As long as the specific CLE in question has all of its bits working, you are good to go. If the circuit board goes, that is another question.
The CLE does quite well and is very interesting for a 1981 or so production.
If I am using almost any camera that may cease functioning due to anything electronic, I tend to think in terms of carrying a spare body.
Next time I will check with Joe Biden before making such a sweeping conclusion. ;-)
Regards, John