fer_fdi
Well-known
Larry Cloetta: you are right, being careful the app matches the X-E1 very well and at the same ISO. At least in controlled light.
BTW, how usable is this app at night, for >1'' exposures? (if anyone checked)
David Hughes: good idea, thanks
Thanks all for the cool meters suggested, the ideas and the teaching. I really appreciate your help
BTW, how usable is this app at night, for >1'' exposures? (if anyone checked)
David Hughes: good idea, thanks
Thanks all for the cool meters suggested, the ideas and the teaching. I really appreciate your help
Larry Cloetta
Veteran
I don't know,I've not used it in that range. 1 second exposure for ASA 1600 film, @ f1.2 maybe not. 1 second exposure for ASA 25 film @ f22 it probably is fine.
The developer of that app has another lightmeter app that is supposedly good as far down as -2 EV or more; I just usually don't shoot in those conditions as I am usually asleep by then, so can't vouch for its effectiveness.
As far as accuracy is concerned I'd probably not ever need anything but his apps. My main reason for having an actual hardware lightmeter is that I run out of battery on my phone if using the apps and walking around for a while shooting. Yes, I can turn the phone off, but then it's not so convenient.
fer_fdi
Well-known
thank you Larry, I will ask him about that
I was thinking in long exposures for both night and daylight pinhole (I have an LTM pinhole that I use on APS-C and would love to use it on film)
I downloaded the pro version because of this and huge pinhole fnumbers and long exposures make it difficult. But hey, there are pinhole apps for that...
The main use for a hardware or software meter right now will be the IIIc in day light and dusk mostly...
For pinhole I guess it's better a specific calculator
And for night long exposures... I guess experience and intuition.
I was thinking in long exposures for both night and daylight pinhole (I have an LTM pinhole that I use on APS-C and would love to use it on film)
I downloaded the pro version because of this and huge pinhole fnumbers and long exposures make it difficult. But hey, there are pinhole apps for that...
The main use for a hardware or software meter right now will be the IIIc in day light and dusk mostly...
For pinhole I guess it's better a specific calculator
And for night long exposures... I guess experience and intuition.
Whateverist
Well-known
I tried using the L208 mounted on the cold shoe, but it didn't work out. While it's light enough to mount and doesn't get in the way, it's just a bit too big and clumsy for my likes and the meter didn't even seem that accurate. I upgraded to a standalone light meter and didn't look back.
AlexBG
Well-known
What film are you using? I've found that using sunny 16 and a bit of practice I only miss one or two shots a roll due to exposure.
For long exposures use a digital camera that you have.
For long exposures use a digital camera that you have.
fer_fdi
Well-known
Thanks Whateverist. I found a couple of ilustrative images (L-208)
https://flic.kr/p/q7cfnH
http://jelabs.tumblr.com/post/5331228977/sekonic-twinmate-l-208-light-meter-japanese
AlexBG, last roll I shot was 20 years ago. I'm about to shoot film again, hopefully rangefinder and medium format (Pentacon Six).
The film I like the most is Kodak Portra. I will start with 160.
I like subtile lights and shallow DOF and I preffer being able to meter, although I guess I will develop an intuition of the shutter speed needed, I often shoot manual on my X-E1 guessing the exposure succesfully. I do this for some time as a training.
I do long exposures and pinhole with my digital but would like to do it on film as well.
https://flic.kr/p/q7cfnH
http://jelabs.tumblr.com/post/5331228977/sekonic-twinmate-l-208-light-meter-japanese
AlexBG, last roll I shot was 20 years ago. I'm about to shoot film again, hopefully rangefinder and medium format (Pentacon Six).
The film I like the most is Kodak Portra. I will start with 160.
I like subtile lights and shallow DOF and I preffer being able to meter, although I guess I will develop an intuition of the shutter speed needed, I often shoot manual on my X-E1 guessing the exposure succesfully. I do this for some time as a training.
I do long exposures and pinhole with my digital but would like to do it on film as well.
fer_fdi
Well-known
The camera happened to be a Leica II, not a IIIc.
I didn't see it for so long that I got it mixed up in my mind all this time, sorry.
For now I'm using the iPhone app for metering. I just shot a test roll and will see if speeds are right, etc.
1/20, 1/30 and 1/40 are sticky most of the times so I'm using just 1/500 to 1/60...
I'm testing my grandfather's Elmar 50/3.5 along with my LTM lenses (Summitar, Summaron f3.5, Jupiter-12, 8 and 11, Canon 50/1.4 and an LTM pinhole I have)
So looots of work : )
I didn't see it for so long that I got it mixed up in my mind all this time, sorry.
For now I'm using the iPhone app for metering. I just shot a test roll and will see if speeds are right, etc.
1/20, 1/30 and 1/40 are sticky most of the times so I'm using just 1/500 to 1/60...
I'm testing my grandfather's Elmar 50/3.5 along with my LTM lenses (Summitar, Summaron f3.5, Jupiter-12, 8 and 11, Canon 50/1.4 and an LTM pinhole I have)
So looots of work : )
Luddite Frank
Well-known
I have yet to run across a vintage shoe-mount selenium meter (Leicameter, Metrophot, or any of the clones: Walz, Nihon Koden, etc.) that still work. They're cute, but not even heavy enough to serve as a paper-weight.
A Sekonic CdS meter, such as the L-136 or L-138 might be worth a chance, and offer a shoe-mount.
The modern Sekonic 208 is really nifty, but not cheap.
If you run across a Gossen Luna-Six, Luna-Pilot, or Luna-Pro, these are all excellent meters... bulky, but good.
A Sekonic CdS meter, such as the L-136 or L-138 might be worth a chance, and offer a shoe-mount.
The modern Sekonic 208 is really nifty, but not cheap.
If you run across a Gossen Luna-Six, Luna-Pilot, or Luna-Pro, these are all excellent meters... bulky, but good.
Jerevan
Recycled User
The Sekonic L-208, well I found it cheap and flimsy.
I use a handheld L-308, since I have to take the camera from my eye to fiddle with the aperture or speed or wind on. If you want to be battery-independent and more old-school, the L398 fits the bill nicely. I gave mine away but I miss it every now and then.
I use a handheld L-308, since I have to take the camera from my eye to fiddle with the aperture or speed or wind on. If you want to be battery-independent and more old-school, the L398 fits the bill nicely. I gave mine away but I miss it every now and then.
DoxLeica
Member
Hi,
You should consider how you use...hold, focus, etc...your camera before adding any clip on meter. I have found (over the past few decades, or so!) that any light meter in the shoe gets in the way. Using a LTM camera outdoors doesn't really require a meter with experience but having any meter, or phone with app, in a pocket will suffice. Indoors a meter may be needed but, then again, the Leica LTMs aren't really nimble in dim light and a hand held meter can be a big help. It will all depend on what you mostly photograph and where. Meters on the screwmount cameras truly do detract from the whole concept of Leica "miniature" photography. In the end, the results are what count but getting there is important to.
John
You should consider how you use...hold, focus, etc...your camera before adding any clip on meter. I have found (over the past few decades, or so!) that any light meter in the shoe gets in the way. Using a LTM camera outdoors doesn't really require a meter with experience but having any meter, or phone with app, in a pocket will suffice. Indoors a meter may be needed but, then again, the Leica LTMs aren't really nimble in dim light and a hand held meter can be a big help. It will all depend on what you mostly photograph and where. Meters on the screwmount cameras truly do detract from the whole concept of Leica "miniature" photography. In the end, the results are what count but getting there is important to.
John