Close-Ups with Mamiya M7

H

Homima

Newbie
Local time
10:15 AM
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
10
Cheap and easy: Close-Ups with Mamiya M7 Rangefinder Camera

For many years, I own a Mamiya 7 rangefinder camera with 43, 65 and 150 mm lenses. I use this camera for traveling, hiking, mountineering.
The lightweight construction and the sharpness of the pictures are stunning. Several years I was used to carry a Linhof 5x7" field camera, which is heavy and bulky. But the M7 is the best camera I ever owned (for my personal opinion, and I owned a lot of cameras, but sold them almost all).
For my point of view, the M7 has two big disadvantages: longest focal lens is 150mm (210mm is available but usesless, due to no focusing possibility) and no close-up (until now). The close-up kit of Mamiya is usesless for me: I dont want to buy a 80mm lens, the focussing frame will chase any animals, the magnification is poor and the price is ...

But, the solution is surprisingly cheap and easy.
Keep in mind: a rangefinder camera is a rangefinder camera is a rangefinder camera! Focusing will never be as easy as with SLR cameras or with ground glass.
My solution with amazingly results is: close-up lenses and a tool, your grandfather already had used: a contameter. I purchased two close-up lenses: Canon 500D (2-Diopter, focal distance: 50cm, 130Euro) and Nikon 6T (2.9 Diopter, focal distance 32 cm, 70Euro), both are achromatic lenses, but very cheap and a contameter (10Euro at ebay). Important: dont try to use non-achromatic close-up-lenses, the results will be very poor.
The highest magnification with diopter lenses is reached in combination with long focal lenses, i.e. 150mm of Mamiya.

A contameter (originally sold with Contax-Cameras, but were also produced by Zeiss Ikon and Kodak) is a rangefinder system. The unit, mounted on the hot-shoe of the camera, is shifting up and down when the distance is changed. To use such a contameter with Mamiya M7 (or other RF-cameras) you have to calibrate the system with following steps:

Mount closeup-lens on 150mm lens. Put a ground-glass on where usually the film is. Open shutter. Twist focus ring of the lens on shortest possible distance (i.e. 1.8m). Move the camera slowly towards an object until a sharp picture can be seen on the ground glass. Check with a good loupe! Then "focus" the contameter. Make a mark on the scale of the contameter. Then check the picture (upper, lower, left, right border) on the ground glass with the frame of the contameter. Mark the frame with tape.
Repeat calibration with other distances (1.8m, 4.0m and infinity is more then sufficient) if required.

To make a photo you have to proceed with following steps:
Focus lens on a calibrated distance (i.e. 1.8m or infinity). Also "focus" the contameter on the calibrated 1.8-(or infinity) mark. Then move camera slowly towards the object, while watching the rangefinder of the contamter. If the two cut-view pictures in the contameter are congruent, you have reached the correct position. Compose the picture with help of the taped frame of the contameter. Use smallest possible aperture. Shoot.
The only tricky thing is the calibration. The rest is easy-going.

Some data (using 150mm lens with Canon 500D:
The magnification is between 1:3.4 to 1:2.4
Focal distance is 500mm. Focused on infinity, object-width is 23.4 cm (landscape format).
Depth of field: 25mm at f32; 3mm at f4.5
 
I've never used a contameter...but I have used "ground glass" on the film plane to verify focus. I'm setting up to do this with my Koni-omega now.
My ground glass is the plastic from a CD case. I rough up the plastic with 300 grit sandpaper, then score it with a untility knife to just larger than the negative and carefully break it along the scores.
Not my original idea...but it works and is virtually free.
 
dazedgonebye said:
I've never used a contameter...but I have used "ground glass" on the film plane to verify focus. I'm setting up to do this with my Koni-omega now.
My ground glass is the plastic from a CD case. I rough up the plastic with 300 grit sandpaper, then score it with a untility knife to just larger than the negative and carefully break it along the scores.
Not my original idea...but it works and is virtually free.
Click to expand...

Interesting idea. I have also used regular glass, checked for lack of blemishes prior to purchase, and sanded. I used that to make a ground glass for my 8x10 when it arrived with a broken one. CD cases wouldn't have been big enough, but would be less likely to break on smaller applications I would think.

Clever idea Homima. I am lucky enough to have the Mamiya Super Press 23. Mamiya sold three different ground glass accessories for it and I have two. I don't have the 45 degree angle viewfinder groundglass, it is always just too expensive. Either of the two I have work with or without closeup filters, or with the extension tube set I have.

My setup is easier, but you don't have that option. As I said, clever idea. Thanks for sharing. I always like to hear when someone has stepped out of the box for a photographic solution.
 
I have to add that if I were regularly doing this sort of thing, I'd just buy the ground glass. It looks to cost about $15 for 6x7. I'm sure that quality ground glass is more of a pleasure to work with than my "at hand" solution.
 
I thought i´d try some close-ups with 150mm too :) Just looking for the close-up -lens. Is the Nikon 6T only available in 62mm size ?

Niko

Edit: Google answered my filter size question already... Does anyone have sample-photos online made with this method ?
 
Last edited:
Niko said:
I thought i´d try some close-ups with 150mm too :) Just looking for the close-up -lens. Is the Nikon 6T only available in 62mm size ?

Yes, you're right. nikon T6 is only available in 62mm. You have to use a step-up-adapter for the 150mm lens. But don't worry, this close-up lens is not vignetting with the 150mm lens.
Homima
Click to expand...
 
Have you actually done this with a Mamiya 7?

The Mamiya uses an electronic shutter that will only stay open with prolonged electric current. With the back open, the shutter bulb will not work. Thus, I can see no obvious way to get the lens to stay open to perform the test you outline. (obviously this is trivial for other cameras).

Please explain precisely how you "tricked" the Mamiya 7 lens to stay open -- we are all very interested.

Michael
 
MJSfoto1956 said:
Have you actually done this with a Mamiya 7?

The Mamiya uses an electronic shutter that will only stay open with prolonged electric current. With the back open, the shutter bulb will not work. Thus, I can see no obvious way to get the lens to stay open to perform the test you outline. (obviously this is trivial for other cameras).

Please explain precisely how you "tricked" the Mamiya 7 lens to stay open -- we are all very interested.

Michael
Click to expand...

I've done this with my Mamiya 7 (I) using a cable release with lock and shutter on bulb. After all the tests with the close-up lenses (Canon 500D, Nikon 6T and both in combination) the battery was exhausted.
I don't know why the shutter-bulb of your M7 won't work with back open.
Homima
 
hmmm.. perhaps it has something to do with the Mamiya 7II??

I'll see if I can borrow a friend's Mamiya 7 to see if it works as described.
Thanx!
Michael
 
Niko said:
I can´t find those 10EUR contameters ??? I can only find those that cost 10x more.... Other solutions ?

Niko
Click to expand...
Close-up finder of Kodak will do too. There are several at Ebay.
Some shops with old and historic cameras will also sell these old parts. Homima
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom