Liquid Fusion
Established
Hi. Newbie. Above is a digital photo (by another person) of the Artist / Club I plan to shoot w/film: B&W TriX400 / Porta 400 Color this Sunday Nov 8th.
My camera: Leica IIIC / Lens: Voigtlander 35mm f2.5 / 135mm Cannon LTM F3.5.
- B&W: Do you push B&W film? If so, I've read pushing 2 stops = 1250 ASA.
- B&W: If ASA 1600 (1250) - Do I shoot / bracket: 1/30 sec @ F2.5; 1/60 sec @ F2.5 ?
- Color film: Kodak Porta 400? Push the film from 400 to 800 **** or 1600 (1250)? Oversaturate?
Note: Read how one person just shoots Color ASA 100 as is - going for subject under spotlight. I like the over saturation effect w/ color film: 1/2 ASA**** + opening up extra stops metering for shadows. Won't have meter. Can take digital photos w/ cell and read info, however, usually the ASA is very high here.
Any help / insight here greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
grouchos_tash
Well-known
I don't know if that 135mm lens will be fast enough as you'll probably want to use a shutter speed of 1/125th. I haven't shot anything like this before but I would meter close up as the stage light will be much different to the rest of the scene, making sure you avoid the guy's face being a whiteout.
As for pushing film...remember, pushing just increases contrast, not the speed of the film. Pushing portra won't turn out well here.
Someone will have better advice than me haha
As for pushing film...remember, pushing just increases contrast, not the speed of the film. Pushing portra won't turn out well here.
Someone will have better advice than me haha
MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
Def consider the exposure on his face, that's the most important element of the situation after all.
I'd use the 35mm and maybe push the film one stop. Don't fret about camera shake or subject movement on the slower speeds, that might be an interesting effect
I'd use the 35mm and maybe push the film one stop. Don't fret about camera shake or subject movement on the slower speeds, that might be an interesting effect
Liquid Fusion
Established
Thanks - as lens is widest f2.5 / Voigtlander 35mm lens, can bracket shutter speed: 1/15 - 1/30 - 1/60. Blur might be interesting / pan with Artist hands on guitar. Focus on eyes / hands (if guitar shot closup up).
Color - What color 35mm film is best to shoot without pushing? Goal: saturated color under spotlights. Thanks.
B&W - Tri-X 400 / Shoot as ASA 400? Push to 1600?
Color - What color 35mm film is best to shoot without pushing? Goal: saturated color under spotlights. Thanks.
B&W - Tri-X 400 / Shoot as ASA 400? Push to 1600?
Pioneer
Veteran
Portra 400 works well all the way to EI3200 but your shadow detail will be gone. In this case if you spotmeter the primary subject's face at different points on the stage this will give you the important detail and the rest will come along for the ride.
A lot of people push TriX with good results but I am not one. My experience with TriX above EI800 has been very hit and miss. If I were seriously considering shooting true black and white in this situation I would only use Delta Pro 3200.
Color is far more forgiving in my opinion and that also goes for chromogenic black and white film. Try some Ilford XPS 400 at EI1600 and EI3200 and I think you will be happier than what you get from TriX.
The ideal is Portra 400 followed by Delta 3200 followed by Ilford XPS 400 with TriX/HP5+ bringing up the rear.
Just my humble opinion...
A lot of people push TriX with good results but I am not one. My experience with TriX above EI800 has been very hit and miss. If I were seriously considering shooting true black and white in this situation I would only use Delta Pro 3200.
Color is far more forgiving in my opinion and that also goes for chromogenic black and white film. Try some Ilford XPS 400 at EI1600 and EI3200 and I think you will be happier than what you get from TriX.
The ideal is Portra 400 followed by Delta 3200 followed by Ilford XPS 400 with TriX/HP5+ bringing up the rear.
Just my humble opinion...
Last edited:
harpofreely
Well-known
I have to ask: why? If the world really needed more concert photos, which it doesn't, I can't think of a worse camera than a iiic to shoot them – and I own one and love it. IMHO you're much better off making your ears the focus of a concert experience.
FrankS
Registered User
Why more landscape, nude, architectural, still life, flower, street, baby, sports, astro, puppy, sunset, portrait, etc photography?
Because some people are interested in such.
Corran
Well-known
Meter the Tri-X at 800 or higher if you need. Use Acufine to develop it. I feel like I keep recommending Acufine but I just love this developer for almost anything. I wouldn't shoot the Portra 400 unless the lighting is really nice. You might be surprised, it depends on the venue. Some concerts I've shot have the absolute worst lighting ever and you must use flash or salvage something with digital shot at ridiculous ISO, some I can shoot easily with a slow zoom. I shoot a lot of theater which is usually decent lighting.
If you can, get up close. Long lenses are boring for concerts IMO.
Small 35mm camera can be perfect for quick and unobtrusive photos. Here is a backstage shot at an orchestra concert (I do audio/recording work and event management with this orchestra) using a Leica III and 5cm f/2 Summitar. Made a good silver print. Shot at an EI of about 1600 and developed normally.
If you can, get up close. Long lenses are boring for concerts IMO.
Small 35mm camera can be perfect for quick and unobtrusive photos. Here is a backstage shot at an orchestra concert (I do audio/recording work and event management with this orchestra) using a Leica III and 5cm f/2 Summitar. Made a good silver print. Shot at an EI of about 1600 and developed normally.
Liquid Fusion
Established
Why? Film - Exposing to oversaturate color (possibly b&w as well) gives dramatic / fantasy results.
Daylight: sunny 16 rule = f16 1/ASA
Now cut : ASA/2, then open several stops (metering for shadows / developing for highlights)
It becomes: f11, f8, f5.6 @ 1 / (1/2 ASA) - bracket shots
Basically,like to do the above - which works very well in bright daylight - in a club shoot situation. Gives the musician, and myself, a deeper portfolio of usefull photos for whatever - personal enjoyment, artistic creative photos to make you wonder/experience about the Artist performance, and even PR.
Daylight: sunny 16 rule = f16 1/ASA
Now cut : ASA/2, then open several stops (metering for shadows / developing for highlights)
It becomes: f11, f8, f5.6 @ 1 / (1/2 ASA) - bracket shots
Basically,like to do the above - which works very well in bright daylight - in a club shoot situation. Gives the musician, and myself, a deeper portfolio of usefull photos for whatever - personal enjoyment, artistic creative photos to make you wonder/experience about the Artist performance, and even PR.
Liquid Fusion
Established
Leica III and 5cm f/2 Summitar. Made a good silver print. Shot at an EI of about 1600 and developed normally.
Hi. EI 1600? F stop / shutter speed?
This is great!!!!!!! Close to what I' m going for.
Corran
Well-known
I think it was wide-open at f/2 and shot at 1/40. It was real dark.
Mudman
Well-known
I'd recommend a spot meter if you have access to one. They make a world of difference with concert photography if you're not using a digital camera.
FrankS
Registered User
Just shoot at max open aperture, and at the slowest speed you can hold steady.
02Pilot
Malcontent
That's exactly what I'd do, and push to 1600. Worry less about the exposure settings and more about the shot. I'd probably go one better (worse?) and estimate the focus rather than trying to nail it - the latter is too time-comsuming in fast-moving situations, and perfect focus is overrated anyway. Don't forget to enjoy the show while you're at it.
Hell, I shot a brass band in the street a few weeks ago with a Brownie Hawkeye (reversed lens). No control of anything other than when the shutter was tripped. It was fun.
Liquid Fusion
Established
Great photo of man + Trumpet!! It says something. You can feel the music vibe.
I agree. Asking here now so I don't get caught up by tech details. Want to know and understand reasons why so I can stay in the energy of the moment then working on the how. Advantage - I'm a rock / blues guitarist. If thrown a guitar at the gig, I'll be on stage in a heartbeat. I'd add some Keith Richards / Muddy Waters double stopped blues!!! Photography = same thing as playing guitar. Know your instrument so you can let go and rock!!! If I want extra fun, might do timed (several sec) exposures wide open (pushed ASA?) swirling the spotlights then staying on the performer playing? It's all about catching action / rhythm. A defiant moment that stands out on an unshattered edge.
Reversing the Hawkeye lens
I agree. Asking here now so I don't get caught up by tech details. Want to know and understand reasons why so I can stay in the energy of the moment then working on the how. Advantage - I'm a rock / blues guitarist. If thrown a guitar at the gig, I'll be on stage in a heartbeat. I'd add some Keith Richards / Muddy Waters double stopped blues!!! Photography = same thing as playing guitar. Know your instrument so you can let go and rock!!! If I want extra fun, might do timed (several sec) exposures wide open (pushed ASA?) swirling the spotlights then staying on the performer playing? It's all about catching action / rhythm. A defiant moment that stands out on an unshattered edge.
Reversing the Hawkeye lens
That's exactly what I'd do, and push to 1600. Worry less about the exposure settings and more about the shot. I'd probably go one better (worse?) and estimate the focus rather than trying to nail it - the latter is too time-consuming in fast-moving situations, and perfect focus is overrated anyway. Don't forget to enjoy the show while you're at it.
Liquid Fusion
Established
What about color? ASA 400? F2.5 @ 1/15 1/30
What about TriX400 shot @ ASA 400 F2.5 @ 1/15 1/30 then also use shutter release @ 1 to 2 sec - anyone do this?
Could shoot 1st roll @ ASA 400, then 2nd roll 800 ASA, with 3rd roll pushing 1600
Might be dramatic..... subject under bright lights / dark all around - action caught in blur - So many things to think about.
Thanks.
Pioneer
Veteran
Try it!
Portra 400 shot wide open at 1/60s. Go for it and see how it works for you.
Portra 400 shot wide open at 1/60s. Go for it and see how it works for you.
Liquid Fusion
Established
Sat - right up to the wire / Just rec'd Gossen Luna Lux Digital Meter w/9 volt battery - Ebay (55.00 inc shipping).
Checking out reading indoor light levels.
@ ASA 400 f2.5 1/30 and f2.5 1/60 - both seem on target. Not forgetting the blurrrrrr / panning shots at 1/15 or slower.
Thanks all!!! Will post when developed!!!
Reflected (Corr) = light bouncing off subject - no dome on meter lens - right?
Checking out reading indoor light levels.
@ ASA 400 f2.5 1/30 and f2.5 1/60 - both seem on target. Not forgetting the blurrrrrr / panning shots at 1/15 or slower.
Thanks all!!! Will post when developed!!!
Reflected (Corr) = light bouncing off subject - no dome on meter lens - right?
